I been working on some paper tuning. The arrow is perfect left to right. But flys about 3" nock high. Any suggestions??
If you can't get rid of it by moving nock up and/or down, add a second nocking point and nock in between. I use two with carbon and one with wood - just how it works for me.
I'd start with high mocking point , say 7/8" and work it down untill clean flight. Also for a second mocking point just use some electrical tape temporarily during testing to remove that variable
I agree with rraming and Brian above. But I've found that 1/2" masking tape makes great temporary nock points until you found the right spot.
If all else fails increase your brace height a bit at a time. I had the same trouble and it drove me nuts until a bowyer suggested the brace height change. Worked for me
The things mentioned above are great solutions.
I am not sure how your nock string combination is but I have recently that nock high is often a result of loose fitting nock for many including me. If your no ks fit to loose try a little dental floss to test a tighter fit.
Thanks guys. I hav used the suggestions above and gotten better flight. Definately not bullet holes in the paper. I normally don't paper tune cuz I hav nevr gotten great results. But, thought I'd giv it a go. The fletched arrows shoot very nice. Altho the paper said the arrow was a touch weak and the the fletched ones seem to b showing a touch stiff. I am not exactly sure what's going on??
I don't know how close you are to the paper when you shoot but I have three or four bows that I can paper tune at six feet and two or three others that I've never been able to tune that close with any arrow point nock combination. For those I just move back around 15 feet.
Do you tune with BH or field points?
I was tuning w filed points. I ended up getting decent flight. The 2 nocking points helped. However, I ended up with my nocking point @ 1" which seems high? I shoot 3 under and its normally 3/4".
Try putting on a feather rest. That's what I did for my grizzly. Found out that my arrow hit my rest until until I raised it off the shelf.
Keep this in mind when paper tuning...If you hit a perfect bullet hole that means you did everything exactly right. It is extremely hard to repeat that every time. No matter how hard you try it will be difficult to get the perfect release, perfect anchor, perfect follow through every single time. I try to get as close as I can while paper tuning to where I am happy with it then go with it.
I am getting same results. Nock high. Still in the process. Two nocking points helped. I am going to try raising brace height.
Jim-i think ur right. Its hard to get it perfect. Especially when u shoot a lot and get frustrated.
Britt- let us kno how it goes. I ended up w a nocking point 1" high. I shoot 3 under but the bow is tillered for 3 under. So I am not sure if its indicative of another issue.
Am I correct in assuming that if I increase the brace height I can effectively stiffn the spine some?
ursusmajor how far are you from the paper when shooting ? When i use to paper tune I would suggest nothing closer that 10 feet and prefered 15 ft+
. Remember that the arrow is still in paradox at different distances. I now just bare shaft all my bows for flight and impact and I feel you can get a finer tune then paper alone, its amazing how a 4" feather can cover up spine issues.
Good luck.
Paper tuning is useless for a finger shooter, unless you know what kind of tear to look for, and a bullet hole isn't it.
What SAVIOUR68 is right on par. 12 - 15 ft is the best distance.
Well what kida tear are u looking for? Cuz I had every kind. I m sure one of em was it then. Lol.
ursusmajor i believe you will get several different tears in the paper from just moving closer or further back from the paper due to arrow paradox when it hits the paper which is a lot worse with wood arrows, this is giving you false tears and results. I am by no means bashing paper tuning, take a bareshaft and shoot it at 15 yards watch arrow flight and mainly point on impact on where you are aiming.
ursusmajor,
both bare shaft tuning & paper tuning are really an advanced method, and only work well for those who have mastered a fairly consistent form in their shooting.
The tears in the paper will vary from one to another due to differences in their style & form, and for those who fluctuate in their form the tear will change every time. Even something as simple as a grip pressure change will change the results of the tear. Same goes for bare shaft readings.
You may very well be one of those who have a very consistent form. If so, tune your rigs following bare shaft group tuning & visual affirmations, then shoot through the paper to see what kind of tear it gives you. That will be the tear your looking for from then on.
Once again - as SAVIOUR68 said - 12 to 15 ft from the paper seems to give the most accurate paper tune readings, because that is the distance the arrow is normally recovering from it's initial paradox.
Thanks guys. I get what u guys r sayn. I think then I had better results than I thought. I don't think I was the proper distance from the target. Once I fletched the arrow and adjusted the nock and BH I have it flying nice. Thanks for all your help.
Happy you got it figured out.
I didn't mean to sound snide with my comments. It's just that I have seen quite a number of folks go down a bad road with paper tuning, and was trying to head you off that trail.
I have a good friend who is quite an accomplished recurve & longbow shooter, BUT he is a convert over from the compound. I watched him completely go bonkers one time, and even start trying change up his finger hold on the string trying to get a bullet hole tear through the paper. He started shooting off his finger tips, and it completely ruined his shooting for a while. Once he started understanding what string roll & paradox meant to a finger shooter, he got back to normal fairly quickly. All this aggravation he suffered trying to get bullet holes in the paper when his arrows were already perfectly tuned.
Pat, that makes total sense. I never had good luck with paper tuning. The frustration doses not help the form. Thanks again for all ur help.
I shoot about 6-8 feet from the paper when paper tuning. You actually want to be closer than 15 feet if you are checking the spine of your arrows.
This is an excellent guide
http://www.wildernesscustomarrows.com/spine.html
I shoot bareshaft at my bag from 8 to 20 yds and watch the arrow flight, then shoot a fletched arrow and see if it is the same. I don't like tuning........