I've been trying to tune my bow (50# Samick Sage, 30" Beman ICS Hunter 400 arrows and 5 gpi arrow weights) for quite some time. I finally have gotten close by dropping my point weight all the way down to 125, but no matter what I do from here I can't get a perfectly straight entry into the target. Most mornings (I shoot before work) I get a few straight entries, but mostly slight nock rights, then occasionally I'll throw a slight nock left. I plan on elk hunting with this bow and I certainly don't want arrows entering at any angle whatsoever. I'm guessing that form (I'm a new shooter) is the likely candidate here, but I thought today that my arrows nock awfully tight to the string - could this cause my problems as well? I have read that you should be able to tap the string while an arrow hangs from it, and the arrow should become dislodged. Mine is nowhere close to that - I have to give a fairly good tug on the arrow to get it to release. I'm hoping this is what is causing the nock left/right issues because it would sure be a lot easier to correct than figuring out what is wrong with my form/release!
Not to confuse you but it may be a number of things.
Gripping the bow too tight,density of your target could be making your arrows stick at different angles,and my personal opinion does sound like your nock may be to tight. Good luck
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Tight nocks can cause a host of problems. The last thing you want is an arrow trying to hang on for dear life as the string returns to brace.....and also makes the bow louder.
tight nocks are a pain, but don't make the rookie mistake I did of sanding them down too much. A finger nail file will fix them nicely but if they're too loose it causes a whole other list of issues and can be as bad or worse than a tight nock. As with most things, there is a happy medium. Dale Karch, the guy from 3 rivers archery does a good example of this in master of the barebows DVD. You want the nock to grip the string enough so the arrow doesn't just fall off, but if you hold the bow upside down with the arrow on the string and the arrow tip facing the dirt, you should be able to just tap the back and have the arrow snap off the string with little effort. Thats the happy medium.
I have found that it makes a big difference and is worth the effort to get it right.
I'm just trying to picture a 400 spine arrow, 30" out of a 50# bow (you don't say what your draw length is) and it sure seems stiff to me. Just for grins, I'd try some 175 gr or 200 gr points and see if that cleans things up a bit. If it does, you might want to look at some .500 spined arrows.
Just saying - points are dirt cheap to try.
Thanks, guys - 2 great points you bring up: gripping the bow too tight (I know I have a problem there!) and noise level of a tight nock (I have thought this bow is louder than it should be).
So, would it be wiser to try an obtain larger grooved nocks, file my current nocks (yikes!) or try and get smaller serving on my string? I'm guessing buying nocks with larger grooves would be easiest - but does such a product even exist?
Nocks are cheap in relation to most archery gear. You're going to order new nocks eventually either way so why not file them lightly first. Its not as bad as it sounds and is free to do. If you order new nocks they may or may not fix the problem and you're still spending money. If you file them, it'll probably work, and if not you order new ones anyways. so why not try to file the ones you have first?
Kamm - thank you...that does give me some ideas. I may have to grab the fingernail file when the wife isn't looking!
Bladepeek - I have a 28" draw. I began using 200 gr tips and was having all kinds of issues. I went up from there and the issue became worse, so I started going lighter in 10 gr increments and finally settled at 125-130. I think the 125 flies better than the 130, but it could be my imagination, too! I haven't actually checked the weight of my bow, either - I'm just going be what it is rated as by the manufacturer.
I sand mine with sand paper...but also use my thumb n forefinger to keep from grinding out the throat of the nock...and I'm only sanding the sides...and yes...sand a little and check...sand a little and check.
I confiscated one of my wife's cushioned nail files. I find it more consistent than sandpaper. Just squeeze the file a little to get inside the nock and about 10 swipes is good. Like Terry, I check, file, check, file, check, file-- a little at a time.
Has anyone boiled the nock then slid it on the string while hot? The idea being to expand the plastic a bit without taking off too much material...
i dont boil them...makes too brittle. I do warm in hot water (good bit less than boiling) being sure not to submerge over glue line/edge of nock on shaft...just the prongs.
Then I snap on and off the string a couple times and let cool with it on string. For both making tighter or loosening depending on serving thickness vs nock fit.
Yeah Ray.... I fold the sand paper to make a file kinda like that.
I do what Terry explained. Works good.
Sounds like a consensus for the filing method. Will give it a try this week. Thanks for all the help, guys! This place is awesome.
Keep in mind, that it should only take a good tap on the string with a finger while holding the bow with the arrow facing down towards the floor, but the arrow should not fall off by itself or with just a very slight tap. You'll know once you start doing them.
I shoot around 50# pull bows with GT 1535's and GT 3555's. For the 3555's I use a 50 gr. brass insert with 125-145 gr. tip. they are 30 1/2" from deepest part of the nock to the brass insert, they fly very straight from my 50 # at my draw length LB.
I also shoot a 28 1/2 inch 1535 with 100 gr. brass insert and a 145- 175 gr. tips and they fly pretty good but do show stiff on occasion if I don't do my part.
I think Bladepeek is probably right. When you get the nocks fitting better, I think those arrows will fly stiff, unless that bow is cut way past center. I draw 29" at 58 pounds and shoot a full length 400 spine with a 100 insert and a 175 field point.
In my opinion the better route is change the serving to the proper size and then you wont have to sand the nock now or in the future. Long term fix.
Yes....serving would work best for some....but not me....
I wouldn't be able to keep up with my serving tool. :knothead: :knothead: :knothead:
I got sand paper hid out all in my hunting gear...and my shop, and my vehicle :D
Ha! Lots of ways to skin a cat, I'm hearing. Interesting about the spine issues I'm hearing, too - I spent a lot of frustrating hours shooting the heavy tips and at 10 yards and 20 yards they looked okay, but when I'd move to 5 yards, they were awful. In fact, I broke one arrow as it entered at such a bad angle that it cracked the shaft. Now, I wonder if I should beg and borrow the test kit from my mother (she's the one that got me interested in moving from the wheels to traditional!) again and take another look at the heavy tips. :dunno:
Man you guys were right about the tight nock messing things up! I read this and got to thinking my nocks have gotten tighter with string and serving changes but I didn't realize it. I filed a few of mine and it really tightened up my shooting.
The file on my leatherman tool fits just right for this.
I'm glad I read this post!
Tedd
Man you guys were right about the tight nock messing things up! I read this and got to thinking my nocks have gotten tighter with string and serving changes but I didn't realize it. I filed a few of mine and it really tightened up my shooting.
The file on my leatherman tool fits just right for this.
I'm glad I read this post!
Tedd
That's why we're here Tedd!
Tight nocks can cause problems with tuning, plus add noise. The simple solution, IMO, is get your string from a reputable string maker (not shilling here--I'm not taking orders, and won't be for a while yet). It's no great feat to match the serving size to the type nock you shoot. That way you don't risk weakening a nock, and the fit will be consistent every time.
The way I look at it is this: You don't buy a suit that's way too big or small, then take it to be altered. You don't buy shoes that are too big or too small then stuff them or put them on a stretcher. You are paying good money, so get the size that fits.
I realize a lot of bows come with "one size fits all" strings. For a small investment, you can get a string that not only gives you a proper nock fit, but will usually give you a better feel and better performance from your bow.
The string is your bow's transmission--you don't put the same transmission in a Mustang that you'd put in a Kenworth. Your bow isn't "one size fits all", your arrows aren't "one size fits all"...even your point's aren't--why should your string and serving be any different?
Chad
Tight nocks certainly cause problems. If the bow is louder than expected I am curious if the brace height has been played with?
I would try shooting some bareshafts with fletched, paper tuning or broadhead tuning to get some real feedback. The orientation of the nock when it hits the target is often suspect. With better feedback you will likely have more to go on. The nock thing is sort of a first step for me, like adjusting brace height.