I see a lot of references to "Pointable bows" and was wondering what your thoughts or definitions might be on this subject?
No doubt there are a lot of different interpretations of the meaning, so lets hear yours.
For me its simple. A properly tuned bow with matching shafts which after achieving full draw and proper anchor will hit the mark or be within a few inches of the said mark, by simply pointing the fist of my bow hand at said mark, WITHOUT the(conscious) reference of the arrow in any way.
For me any bow that requires conscious thought of the arrow, hold left ,right, up or down is not what I consider pointable, given that it is properly tuned with matching shafts.
To me " Pointable" means just that.....the ability to hit the mark by simply pointing ones fist, bow arm, finger or what have you at the mark, and hitting the mark.
Just thinking out loud. :campfire:
For me "point able " is a bow that fits my hand so well that if I took my target stance , closed my eyes and drew to anchor when I opened my eyes I would be real close to target
center cut
QuoteOriginally posted by Brianlocal3:
For me "point able " is a bow that fits my hand so well that if I took my target stance , closed my eyes and drew to anchor when I opened my eyes I would be real close to target
X2
I shoot lots of different bows that way...not sure the bow makes as much difference as some would likt have us think
My idea of 'pointable' is simply that the bow is easy and fast for the shooter to get onto the mark with...and doesn't have much directly to do with tuning, shafts, or accuracy. Those three are really functions of preparation and form. For me, pointable bows are physically light in weight and of an 'uncomplicated' grip design such that the bow hand can easily control and direct (point) the bow without much thought by the shooter. Staight grip Hill style bows come to mind. Heavy, more pistol-grip type recurves and hybrids do not.
QuoteOriginally posted by TSP:
Staight grip Hill style bows come to mind. Heavy, more pistol-grip type recurves and hybrids do not.
Prime example of the individual preferences that we all have. Hill style bows are the least pointable for me. If I just throw a Hill bow up and shoot it I will be left of center (I'm right handed)every time. I find center-cut pistol style recurves much more pointable.
Everyone is different.......given an hour with a bow it will become pointable to me. As long as I can get along with the grip. The only ones that give me problems are high wrist or to big because of the size of my hand [small]!
For me the shelf has to be cut down close to my hand.
I have found that matching the arrow to the bow is the most important aspect of making a bow "pointable". my Sheepeater Spirit is the most accurate bow I have, and is definitely is the most pointable.
I feel like I could close my eyes and shoot accurately at over 30 yards with it. a lot of that is that it's accurately matched with arrows it likes, and the arrow is close to my hand.
seems simple, but it works.
I am of the opinion that a riser with a good deal of deflex helps with point ability.
Good fitting grip and cut just past center.
QuoteOriginally posted by gregg dudley:
center cut
I think Gregg is correct - at least for me. Though if you get the spine matched properly as long as it shoots where yu are looking that's "pointable." May be different for those that use the arrow tip for reference. I gun-barrel and a center shot or pretty close works best.
A cut to center, medium wrist grip fits me the best and feels most natural. I believe your bow arm should go where it needs too automatically on the draw and a properly fitting bow helps immensely.
I don't refer to it as "pointable". I call it "eliminating false cast" False cast to me is when, as was said, you point your fist at what you want to hit, but the arrow hits 10 inches high or 5 inches low, or whatever. A bow with false cast is very hard to hunt with using an instinctive method of shooting. (you get my point) When that happens, I start playing with my nock point location, brace height, or arrow size and weight till I get the arrow hitting what I point my fist at. I only use this method on bows I use for hunting up to about 20 or 25 yards. If I know there could be potential longer shots then I just sight the bow in with a gap system and hunt with it that way.
For me: good balance/ a little extra mass for stability, at least a locator grip, something that fits my hand well, and cut to center yes.
Gap master- you gave a term the same thing I have encountered when a bow is not tuned right..I like that, 'false cast'. very good.
To me it means comfortable in the hand that seems to naturally line up. Not necessarily center cut ( form and practice can make the sighting adjustment somewhat automatic). My Hill bows are not center cut, but I have been shooting them for so long, they seem natural to me. On those few occasions I shoot the recurve, I tend to initially be off, because I compenste when it does not need it. Bottom line, though, is what feels good and gives you confidence.
QuoteOriginally posted by Brianlocal3:
For me "point able " is a bow that fits my hand so well that if I took my target stance , closed my eyes and drew to anchor when I opened my eyes I would be real close to target
X3
I don't cant my bow so the first thing for me is a big sight window. Since I use elevated rests. The right center-cut at least -3/16" and shelf not right on top of hand.
Many years ago I used the term "pointable", when critically judging four wheeler compounds. I explained, a compound breakover is right when it is getting back and the bow will be slow to get on target and has to be aimed after acnchoring again. A longbow is on target very quickly and if it is drawn properly will be on target as one reaches anchor and the arrow is gone. If your bow from the beginning of the draw to the release takes 5 seconds to be shot accurately and my bow takes me one second to shoot accurately, while a deer gives us one and a half seconds to shoot, who's bow is the fastest? A bow that one can get off a quick shot and still be accurate for the shooter is pointable.
For me it's all about the grip/shape of the handle. If it fits my hand well, it will be right where I want it when it comes up. Not necessarily center shot. None of my longbows are centershot.
Pointable for me is a consistent first/cold shot. During the season my daily practice is one arrow shot throughout the day. My dwyer longbows have a nice tendency of making the first one count!
pointability only comes into play after the arrows are tuned to the bow. Pointability is when if you conscienciously aim and hit the target consistently that you can now literally put the bow up while looking at the target and hit it without really aiming. A consistant grip and hand placement helps a bunch. Cut past center only matters in tuning the arrow to the bow. To me pointability is really a hunting necessity for close fast shots on game. Jump shooting rabbits, pheasant, and yes even shots on moving big game if you have lots of practice. Its a modern day no no bigtime but back in the day we practiced and took the shots. I can remember when a lot of bowhunters set up trollys or swinging targets as a regular matter. We got pretty good at point shooting.
God bless, Steve
QuoteOriginally posted by NBK:
Pointable for me is a consistent first/cold shot. During the season my daily practice is one arrow shot throughout the day. My dwyer longbows have a nice tendency of making the first one count!
NBK, that is a great analogy of pointability, IMHO.
I base a lot of my judgement on pointability on the first/ cold shot of the day and not the umpteenth shot, where my muscles and mind have warmed and started working into the routine of making consistent shots, for as you stated, its the first shot that counts!
Well stated!!
To me it's gaining my site window without having to adjust my form to get it, but like someone else already said, it won't matter until one has good arrow flight.