Hi everyone,
I am getting set up to make my own arrows and I have been searching around for jigs, saws, feathers, adhesives, and arrow making supplies in general but I am a little overwhelmed. :eek:
Question 1)
From your experience in making arrows what would you suggest to a newbie and where would you go to get the following?:
Jig
Saw
other tools?
Feathers
Adhesives
other solvents that may be needed for cleaning shafts?
Question 2) How to...?
What is your advice on making the process efficient and predictable?
What helical do you place on your fletchings (right hand shooter)? R/L/Straight
Thank you!
ok number one wood arrows or carbon if wood to cut em i use a sharp and i do mean sharp knife then i self nock em with a little hand saw and file then put some sinew around the nock end for the other end i use a arrow sharpener the ones that look like a pencil sharpener then put ya fletching on using a fletching jig i use a right hand helical. i am sure someone else will tell ya different any how just have fun making them. as for ya first question i would have a look on here for the jig saw if you want one feathers adhesives if you are going to use carbon shafts you will need the solvent to clean the shaft before putting on your fletch only if you use plastic ones other than that soap and water will do fine then dry em and fletch. i hope this has helped oh btw any good jig will do i use a jojan cheep but works :thumbsup:oh and as far as right hand and left hand no dif if you shoot right you can shoot left hand fletch or straight :thumbsup:
I'm gona watch this thread. I'm tired of having someone else cut and fletch my arrows. I need to just buy the stuff and learn to do it myself. :)
Jeff B - My go to arrows are aluminum (cheep) but I do shoot carbons also.
TxAg - right on, I agree - DIY time!
PM me your email and I'll send you a little article I wrote for our archery club. Can't tell you all the stuff you need for woodies, but here is what I use for carbons.
Bitzenberger Jig, your choice on RW or LW
Weston High Speed arrow saw
Bohning Platinum for feathers
Gorilla Super Glue Gel for inserts, or the bohning hot melt, if you go with super glue, the gorilla is plasticized and is extremely impact resistant.
91% isopropyl alcohol-DO NOT USE RUBBING ALCOHOL
Cheap cut off saw from Harbor freight, abrasive wheels from ****. Fletching jig of your choice, glue or tape of your choice.
How much effort are you willing to expend? Alum. and carbons can be made up real quick with a fletching jig, feathers, the CORRECT glue,and a razor saw and miter box from the hobby store.
I do prefer a cutoff saw that I got from Harbor Freight. I made a jig to hold the shaft in place so I can cut each shaft the same length. All the items needed can be had from any number of Trad Gang sponsors listed above. Maybe to get started get the arrow making DVD from 3Rivers.
Good luck and welcome to one of the benefits of trad archery, DYI.
QuoteOriginally posted by M60gunner:
How much effort are you willing to expend? Alum. and carbons can be made up real quick with a fletching jig, feathers, the CORRECT glue,and a razor saw and miter box from the hobby store.
I do prefer a cutoff saw that I got from Harbor Freight. I made a jig to hold the shaft in place so I can cut each shaft the same length. All the items needed can be had from any number of Trad Gang sponsors listed above. Maybe to get started get the arrow making DVD from 3Rivers.
Good luck and welcome to one of the benefits of trad archery, DYI.
"DYI" Do Yourself In???? :D
QuoteOriginally posted by ArrowCraCra:
Jeff B - My go to arrows are aluminum (cheep) but I do shoot carbons also.
TxAg - right on, I agree - DIY time!
Hey man no need for a saw to cut aluminums. Go to auto zone and get a small pipe cutting tool made for cutting brake lines. Works great and costs about 10 bucks. to chamfer the inside you can chuck a little pointed sanding stone from a dremel tool in your drill or use a case chamfer tool from lee reloading. either one works well. I started building my own and aluminum has been very easy and forgiving to work with for a total noob like me.
For carbons, you can cut them off with basically anything you can get to cut them, but cut them 1/4" long and then finish them on a disc sander with medium paper. I've done it many times, make sure you have sufficient dust collection though. Arrows saws are expensive and many people already have a disc/belt sander.
M60 - what is the "the CORRECT glue"?
Good advice everyone. Thanks. Are there any out there that have a specific setup(s) and method you use or arrow making stations that you use?
Products that work, that did not work that kind of a thing?
:confused:
Opps, DYI, My IPad has a mind of it's own.
As to your question about what fletch, right or left,the old standby was right handed use right wing, left handed use left wing. But... alot of folks do not use that rule anymore and their reasons are varied. There are threads here devoted to this subject. Some folks do not care either way.
For years I cleaned my alum. shafts with Comet cleanser and hot water. No need for the fancy shaft cleaner. Carbons are another story, I use acetone or Fletch-Laq thinner to wipe then down. I prefer wraps on carbons because I have never had a feather fall off using wraps and fletch-tite glue. Agian these are my experiences and others may do the same or have a way that works for them. In the end you will find what works for you.
I use a tube cutter to cut aluminum and carbon arrows. They come out really straight and need very little if any truing up. I use a BPE fletcher and Bohning Fletch Tite Platinum glue. I use wraps on carbons and just clean the shaft good for aluminum.
Good stuff M60 and Alex. Thanks
QuoteOriginally posted by Alexander Traditional:
I use a tube cutter to cut aluminum and carbon arrows. They come out really straight and need very little if any truing up. I use a BPE fletcher and Bohning Fletch Tite Platinum glue. I use wraps on carbons and just clean the shaft good for aluminum.
Any trouble with the carbon splintering?...i guess you just take it slow with easy pressure? I've wanted to try this but have always been cautioned against it regarding carbons.
Tx Ag i've not had any trouble with splintering. I do however run a bead of super glue around the end that I cut and it soaks down in,just in case. You are right about going slow. If you start out too fast especially on aluminum it will get crooked on the first round.
Thanks guys
Regarding fletching, is it worth the extra money to get a multi fletcher vs a single?
QuoteOriginally posted by TxAg:
Thanks guys
Regarding fletching, is it worth the extra money to get a multi fletcher vs a single?
It just depends on your personal taste. I have no problem with the single. I put one in and go about mowing the grass or whatever it is I"m doing,and then just swing buy in about ten minutes and put another feather on,and before you know it you've got a half a dozen arrows fletched.
What Biathlonman says: is how I do it. I just bought the saw this weekend from harbon freight and cut 4 dozen carbons no problem works great $32
you need to first check out the how to resources forum!
Jojan multi jig or Blitz?
Bitz all the way! IMO
It does take a little investing to get good quality products. Aluminum and carbon, would suggest an arrow cut off tool. Cuts them clean and accurately.
Personally, I would invest in 3 Bitzenbergers either RW or LW Helical. AMG or Trueflight feathers from a Sponsor here along with your glue and possibly stains.
I use 91% Isopropyl to clean my shafts. If your not going to crown dip/apply arrow wraps, then pick out a color stain you like and seal your shafts with Minwax Poly (Wood shafts only). For wood/aluminum, I prefer Snap on nocks. Carbon shafts come with nocks.
I'm old school...still crown dip all my arrows with Bohning products and use Bohning glue. Hot melt for inserts/points/broadheads. Carbon/Aluminum I like JB Weld 6 hr cure for inserts.
Again, from a good nock/point taper tool to all your building needs can be had right here from a good Sponsor.
Without hesitating, find yourself a Bitzenberger Jig. I got a used one from my local archery shop. I asked if they had any old shop equipment they wanted to sell and made out with a great jig at a great price.
For tapering the ends of the arrow a Traditional Only Taper tool cost 7 bucks and does the job perfectly,Bohning Fletch tape allows me to get 6 arrows fletched and ready in less than an hour easy. I have arrows fletched with tape over 5 years without any issues at all.I love to use the clear arrow wraps I get from Kustom King Archery, real sleek looking wraps. If you finish your arrows in a gloss finish, the clear wraps will look as if you did actually painted the lines on. And the best nocks I have used are T nocks.
I shot aluminum for many years. We used to stump shoot all the time and I was the best shot I ever was while doing that. But you know you have to use those carbon arrows nothing else will work...and they explode on something you didn't know was in the dirt and...well I don't stump shoot like I used to and I am not as good of a shot as I once was. So I am wanting to start building some arrows for my traditional equipment and I like the idea of going back to aluminum for my traditional. I shoot goldtip traditional, you guessed it, carbon arrows now and I really like them but I won't just shoot them all the time anywhere like I used to. So the question is, I have a lot of turkey feathers saved up right and left wing can I buy a jig and an extra clamp of the opposite wing and fletch a bunch of right and then turn around and fletch a big batch with the other clamp? Which jigs will allow me to do this. I know the Bitzenburger will but will the Bohning red jig? Thanks for your help. I like the idea of the tubing cutter being so simple too on the aluminum. I would like to do wood shafts too but I may be too hard on equipment for that, do they hole up very well and what woods are more durable?