Hi - Thinking of going with CX Heritage 350 cut to 28". I have a 55 pound Savannah but at my drsw length pulling about 50 pounds. Anyone with experience using this arrow at 28"? And what weight head did you use? I am thinking of putting a 300 grain steel force traditional on there for a total weight of 650 grains. The bow is center cut but I have a velcro side plate. I realize there are many variables, just looking to see what peoples experiences have been with this setup. Thanks!
There will probably be more people get in here,but that sounds like it might be a bit stiff. I'm shooting 250 out of a 55lbs and they are full length with a 175 grain tip.
Way to stiff, I use them,BW recurve 59lbs 31in arrow with 200grns up front 5in feathers, they fly like darts. just my option Burt
For carbon express, I would think you would need 150's.
Watch for the change in spines. Carbon express has changed their spines fairly recently, and the they are weaker than the old ones that are marked the same.
That will be way too stiff. You could go with 250's running 300grains but and start with them long cutting back to tune.
QuoteOriginally posted by kat:
For carbon express, I would think you would need 150's.
Watch for the change in spines. Carbon express has changed their spines fairly recently, and the they are weaker than the old ones that are marked the same.
x2
:knothead: Too stiff and cut too short for your set up and up to 70#
I agree. Too stiff. A 250 at 30" will handle a 295g head out of a 55# bow.
Too stiff. I shoot bows in the 53to 55 lb range and use 150s cut to 29" with 200 to 250 grains up front.Ditto what limblover said, I shoot 29" 250s with 300 grains up front out of my 55lb bows.
aint going to do too well with that one. What would make you want such a stiff shaft?
A 150 with all the components and a 300g head will give you a 610 g arrow +- (cut to 28"s).
That will go through anything that a 50lb bow could kill.
BigJim
Have to agree, 350's @ 28" will way stiff for a bow in the low 50's.
If you are going to cut to 28", I'd start with 150's.
I shoot a 55# slammer. I use 150s cut to 29 1/4. They seem about right. As I change strings, I change tip weight. Right now, I am using 150 grain filed points. I have a fast Allan Shafer string from Lefties R Us.
Martin
Awesome feedback everyone! Thanks. I currently shoot 150's cut to 28.5 and 150 grain heads and they fly straight. But yesterday I changed side plates from a very thin foam type material to velcro - which was thicker and I noticed my arrows showing weak. Plus, I have been wanting to go up to a heavy arrow. My current setup is only 440 grains and I want to go up to the 600 range to get 12 gpp range. I did notice that CX recently weakened the spine of the Heritage line so I will have to check with the vendor I buy them from to see which ones I am getting. I'll probably go with 250's and buy a test kit from 3R to see which weight makes em fly straight. I was just shocked that they side plate made that much difference. Th
Awesome feedback everyone! Thanks. I currently shoot 150's cut to 28.5 and 150 grain heads and they fly straight. But yesterday I changed side plates from a very thin foam type material to velcro - which was thicker and I noticed my arrows showing weak. Plus, I have been wanting to go up to a heavy arrow. My current setup is only 440 grains and I want to go up to the 600 range to get 12 gpp range. I did notice that CX recently weakened the spine of the Heritage line so I will have to check with the vendor I buy them from to see which ones I am getting. I'll probably go with 250's and buy a test kit from 3R to see which weight makes em fly straight. I was just shocked that they side plate made that much difference. Th
Oops! Sorry for the double post! Computer glitch. I am fairly new to trad. I am a converted wheels guy. So far, I am loving it! Thanks All!
A lot of us are converted wheely guys, including me....hope you enjoy it as much as I do. Good luck!
I tried both the mayhem 250 and 350's cut to 30 inches, out of a 60 lbs. longbow and only the 350's would bare shaft. I'm using a 200 grain point and 4 inch feathers and they fly perfect.
Building out the side plate should require a lighter spine arrow. Have you tried 200 gr tips?
Threeunder, that's what I had heard - that a thicker side plate would have the affect of stiffening the arrow. So I was shocked by what I was seeing. I don't have any bare shafts so I can't bare shaft tune but I think I am going to get some and test with a heavier head like you suggest. I am in my first year of shooting traditional so an inconsistent release could be an issue as well. I shoot split finger and I am just going to keep practicing a lot and see how it goes. I do eventually want to get my arrow weight up to a little over 600 grains so if the CX 250 are now at 10.2 gpi, I can get them at 28 inches and with 300 grain head be right in the area I want to be. I will also get a test kit from 3Rivers. That will probably be best. Thanks!
There is something else going on. Even though you are split, it has been proven that the arrow can still slide down the string after release. Adding a second nock...one above and one below string may help. Are your arrow nocks tight on the string?
Also you need to check your nock height. Are you getting wear spots on your sideplate or rest?
Just take one of your arrows and cut the fletching off. It will tell you alot providing the above are in order.
It is a big mistake people often make when they try to raise arrow weight by choosing a heavier shaft. That almost always means a stiffer spine.
Add the weight to the front. You can typically add a lot of weight and only cut the shaft a little. This will give you the most superior flight characteristics.
Your also in too big of a hurry to cut the arrows. cutting should be saved for tuning only.
I doubt you could shoot a 250 cut to 28" even with 300g up front.
best of luck, bigjim
Big Jim - You are correct. I only have one nock. I will add another. I am using B-50 to just tie on nocks. The one that I have on there already has not moved, but I will add another below it. The nock point is 1/2 inch high. After 120 shots, getting a little wear on the velcro sideplate at the very bottom of it. I've got one arrow where the fletching is kinda tore up anyway. I will take that one and strip off the fletchings so I can bare shaft. Thanks Big Jim! I will get a test kit from 3 rivers and test with my current 150's. Thanks everyone!
Bingo! Big Jim. You nailed it. Tied on a bottom nock and the bare shaft shows no left or right lean. Dead center straight. The bare shaft showed maybe a tad bit nock high - but not bad at all. When I shoot the fletched arrows, the are dead center straight! Awesome! Thank you so much!
Watch your shelf/sideplate material. It will tell you the story, or at least part of it. It should not be wearing significantly except over time.
Nock high is par for the course. I wouldn't be in a hurry to move the pt down. 1/2" is real common. It is better to have your nock pt's a little too high than too perfect or too low.
I would rather have my arrow flying down range with the tail slightly up (feathers will correct this quickly) then porposing due to it bouncing off the shelf created by low nock or perfect nock but bad release.
Best of luck...by the way, we sell test kits also.
thanks, bigjim
I am currently using CE 150's at about 28.75", w/ 100 grn insert and 145-160 grn head. Seems to work out of mid 50 lb bows. I may have to rethink that if CE did change their spine.
I would like to transition to wood, but am just getting used to a new bow and don't want to change too much yet.