I was wondering what was the best kind of glue to use for gluing screw-in adapters into zwicky eskimos.Any suggestions? Thanks.
I don't know what is the best.I tried hot melt glue and didn't use enough I guess,because I left several heads in my new delta buck target.I just did some this morning using J-B Weld.Will see how they work in the morning.
Thanks for the info fxe. Hot melt is what I was going to try.
Bradley i think you will find the j-b weld to work good as well as some 2 part epoxy. make sure you clean the inside of the broadhead as well as the adaptor first and you shouldn't have any more problems.
I have been having bad luck with Ferr-L-Tite and steel adapters/Eclipse and also WW's. Some are saying i need to do more prep (brush inside of bh). Still playing with this as time has been limited. J-B weld is also on the horizon as well as Goat-Tuff as i have both. I have also tried Power Bond. Not sure which ones are failing now.....
Lucky enough I have been able to retrieve all but 1 head from my Morrell bh target by sliding the arrow back into the target and pushing it out the back.
As a side note, I have noticed the 2-blade really "snags" in the target material on pull back.
Good luck. Hope others chime in here.
BobW
Is J-B weld heat reversible? What is the "set time"?
I use the higher strength (I think higher temp.) hot melt glue and have had good results. But I make sure I clean out the ferrule and the insert with acetone before glueing. Haven't lost a head in a target yet with this. Even with quick fix-its (like pulling out an insert while removing an arrow from a tree) I can use one of those small glue sticks for the little glue guns and a lighter and fix things right up.
Aaron
Thanks for the input guys. The only one that I tried so far, I did clean the broadhead and the adapter with 90% rubbing alcohol, but it didn't hold. I noticed that the adapter had a little paint on it when it came out, so maybe I should brush it out and then use the stronger acetone. Thanks, and keep the ideas coming.
I have good luck using Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy.
1. It has a 30 minute working time that lets you get even the most stubborn broadheads aligned.
2. It has a working temperature of -60 to 200 degrees. You can later remove the broadheads with a torch without going nuclear!
3. It is water proof.
4. It is recommended for both wood and metal.
Like the others have said, it is best to clean both the adapters and the inside of the broadhead. I have a wire strung across the front of a workbench that I have clothes pins clipped to. After I get the broadheads aligned I just hang the arrow by the nock until epoxy dries (about two hours). That way I have not changed the alignment of the broadhead, which may happen if you lay the arrow on a bench or lean it up against a wall.
Below is a picture of a jig I use to align the broadheads. Pretty simple but it works great. I can usually get the broadheads aligned within .003-.005 inch, which is a heck of a lot more accurate than spinning them on a bench.
Good luck!
Goose
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v74/ClearFork/14c38f50.jpg)
Thanks Goose. It looks like you have this procedure down to a science! Cool jig too!
very cool, but what happens if your shaft diameter changes?
Is that a bearing the broadhead point is riding in or just a 60' cone cut in a piece of stock or ??
Neat idea.
"very cool, but what happens if your shaft diameter changes?"
Nothing, if I understand your question correctly. As long as the shaft is round, and reasonably straight, it works fine. The initial reading on the dial is insignificant; you are just looking for the movement on dial as you rotate the shaft.
"Is that a bearing the broadhead point is riding in or just a 60' cone cut in a piece of stock or ??"
It's a bearing. This was the first one I made and have since built another one that also has bearings in place of the screen door rollers. On the second one I also made a sliding block to hold the dial indicator so I could move it left and right to adjust for different broadhead lengths. Not really sure that was necessary though.
Good luck.
Goose
two part epoxy is the only way to go as i have used hot melt and sometimes they come out and ya lose the head not a good look. :thumbsup:
Wouldn't a larger (or smaller) diameter move the center point up (or down) and thus imparts wobble (off center) to be detected on your measuring device which is no longer on the axis of the shaft? Never mind. :knothead: Like I said "very cool" :notworthy:
It would be a problem if you had a second bearing set like a Dixon.
My bad.
BobW
Two part epoxy is what I have found to be the best. But you need to find some that has a long cure time, as it is more flexable and less brittle than the quick cure type.
>>>>Tim------->
2 part epoxy as long as it is not the Quick set stuff will work very well and is heat reversable. Shawn