Pretty new to wood arrows here, but trying to go fullMonty so to speak with the trad gear. I've got 3 Toelke Chinooks. #48ish, #51 and #55. I just made up some 70-75 Surewood Douglas fir shafts (outstanding quality and service). My plan was to make these for the #51 but unfortunately they show just a tiny bit weak out of it. They do appear to be perfect for the #48 so no big deal. So where to go from here? Do you think I should go up #5 on the next batch or.#10, all else being equal? I'm thinking 10 and I can add point weight if I need to soften them asmidge. Sound about right or should I be looking at #15 and try to catch both of the heavier bows (point weight depending)? Thoughts?
Biathlonman a couple questions first
What is your draw length ?
How long of arrow were you shooting ?
What weight point are you looking to shoot on your finished arrow?
If these arrows show a TINY BIT WEAK there are several ways to fix this-cut them slightly shorter or decrease point weight. You can even build out your shelf slightly and/or if you are using a softer shelf material as Velcro or calf hair you can go to a piece of leather which will also help . I would think those arrows at 29" with a 28" draw with 125 gr points would be very very close. Good luck WOOD IS GOOD :bigsmyl:
I am surprised. At a 28" draw length 70-75 is pretty stiff enough for a 55# Bow. For a Longbow with a 125 gr point I would even go a tad lighter 65-70. For a 48# bow 70-75 is way too stiff unless you've got one heck of a cant to compensate for it.
Bow weights listed are at 28", I draw close to 29". Arrows are 30"with 125gr. Point. Also shoot 8 strand SBD strings. The ones I have are perfect with the lightest bow so no reason to change anything. I'd like to shoot 125 or 160gr. Points on the next bunch just because that's what I have a bunch of.
I would think that going up 5#s in spine would be enough for the 51# bow. Your draw length and arrow length now show why the 70-75s are slightly weak.
Biathlonman.. if that is working for you, I see no reason to change. I shoot Hill Style Longbows and find when a decision needs to be made in spine, going with the tad lighter spine to work best rather than stiffer. Good luck.
Interesting that you find that set up weak ... 70-75's were my favorite woodies out of all my 55# bows. My draw is 28" and I was usually shooting 125 to 145 grn heads on 29 1/2 " shafts BOP. I would go up 10# if you are finding them weak now, I never had many issues going up in spine with wood.
Good luck ...
I think the skinny string is the culprit as they make the bows shoot much stiffer shafts then you would expect. I'm leaning 10 lbs. Just to be safe.
I shoot 80-85# spine out of a 56# bow with skinny string. I draw to 29.5. I'm not surprised by your results. Seems about right.
Now I am confused. I shoot a Robertson Fatal Styk. 53@27. I draw 27 my arrows are 28. I want to shoot woods (surewoods) and I thought you add about #10 to the spine for a recuve which is 63#. Are woods like Sure spined @ 28"?
QuoteOriginally posted by jeffg:
Now I am confused. I shoot a Robertson Fatal Styk. 53@27. I draw 27 my arrows are 28. I want to shoot woods (surewoods) and I thought you add about #10 to the spine for a recuve which is 63#. Are woods like Sure spined @ 28"?
They're spined at 26". I had to go up 10# in spine when i switched to skinny string. The best thing you can do is get a test pack.
i shoot surewood 80/85s cut to 29" with a 28" draw out of a 53#@28 fedora hybrid with a skinny string. just another data point for ya. try Stu miller's dynamic spine calculator out. for some reason i have to put in a "personal form factor" of about 10