I have a 53@28" Take down Black Widow PLX longbow. No matter what arrows I shoot, regardless of glove, tab, or other release, my arrows smack the belly side of the rest. It's noisy, but it's done it since I got the bow a few years ago. I didn't even know I was doing it until I was shooting at an indoor competition. I've learned to compensate for the reaction, but I let a gentleman try the bow, and he shot it quiet, the arrows flew faster, and it made me feel unworthy of such a fine bow. I don't seem to have this problem with my other bows, which are all slightly lighter in draw weight. I've had it shelved in favor of my Whip for about 2 years now, but it's my traveling bow. Any ideas?
Yea,
Sell me the bow and your problem will vanish.
Regards,
Grouse :goldtooth:
Mike, I am no expert but I would assume you need to extrapolate on your particulars.
Split finger/3 under?????
2 nock points one above and below and where on the string do you nock???
Type of arrows and nocks??
Draw length?
More details may be needed to figure it out. I don't like telling people that it could be a form issue but it could be part of the problem. I doubt it though since you shoot other bows without the problem. Maybe the weight causing you to torque the string vertically or horizontally causing a erratic release.
Just let use know.
Craig
Almost definitely the grip is too narrow for you. Go grab a piece of leather or a glove (anything will do) and wrap it around the grip just to make it thicker then fire off a few shots. Obviously it will be awkward but it should tell you if that's the problem.
That's what was happening to me on my Stalker and I wrapped the grip and now it doesn't make a sound, shoots more accurately too.
Yes sir,you need to put a bunch more info. down like Gump21Bravo stated.
Agree with the grip advice. I've run into the same thing on several bows. Also try changing your grip. I have the pressure on the heal of my hand it works fine.
Have you tried raising your nocking point?
Arrows are too stiff.
That's what popped into my mind first. The other guy who shot it, does he have a longer draw length? (Faster arrow... subsequently weaker/proper spine to the arrow...) Remember that a really stiff arrow will show really weak bareshafts because of the contact with the riser.
Thank you, guys. I shouldn't be surprised that so many of you guys are willing to help. I draw 29.5, shoot mostly with a Fred Eichler tab (no spacer), but sometimes I use a glove. I shoot split finger. I use a single clamp on brass nock point. I've probably always shot too stiff an arrow until I discovered Stu Miller's spine calculator, but even the 500's whack the riser (Beman MFX, 500's with X nock right now). I would bet it is something to do with my form, but I'll be damned if I can figure out what I do different on that bow. I'm going to try the wrap around the grip. Thank you all so much for your input.
Also, the nock is at 1/8" above the top of the arrow (I think about 3/8" above the shelf). I would think that's too low, but that's where it does best through paper and bareshaft. There's a worn spot on the strike plate where it hits.
I had this issue in the past. My problem was my release, I was putting torsional stress on the string by "turning" my draw hand at anchor. Once I was aware of this and focused on keeping my string hand "straight" the problem went away.
Had a similar problem a few years back. It turned out that with a particular bow, I was rotating my bow hand too far under the arrow. This caused me to slightly torque the bow on release.
In your case, if your are sure of your arrow spine (I would probably be using 400's depending on tip weight)and you have a solid anchor and release, you might try rotating your bow hand until the second knuckle of your thumb is centered on the belly of the riser. I suspect a slight adjustment might help you. Just a thought, mike
QuoteOriginally posted by Lamey:
I had this issue in the past. My problem was my release, I was putting torsional stress on the string by "turning" my draw hand at anchor. Once I was aware of this and focused on keeping my string hand "straight" the problem went away.
same here..basicly, i was canting the bow but not my draw hand
QuoteOriginally posted by OBXarcher:
Agree with the grip advice. I've run into the same thing on several bows. Also try changing your grip. I have the pressure on the heal of my hand it works fine.
That's exactly what I did
Mike-Raise your nocking point to 5/8 and work your way down. I'll bet the slap will go away. Good Luck! Denny
Mike,
I have the same problem. In my case, it depends upon how much I use my bottom finger (shooting split) in drawing the string. I find that if I pull more with the top two fingers, I get a better release, with less of the arrow whacking the shelf. Also, it changed depending on whether I put more pressure on the heel of my bow hand or the web of my bow hand. Raising or lowering my nocking point doesn't do anything to fix the problem either.
In the end, I put a rest on my PLX and it shoots like a dream. This type of problem is one of the reasons that so many people shoot off of rests.
PM if you want to talk more about the problem.
This problem--at least in my case--is a result of shooting style, not the bow. The way I draw, the angle of my drawing elbow, the pressure of my bow hand against the grip, and the pressure my string hand places on the string at release.
A few minutes ago I was shooting an ACS longbow with a recurve grip and with no rest, and I saw the problem again. I can make it go away by tweaking my form, but my going to the rest I get better and more consistent arrow flight and shelf clearance, without having to change the form I have developed over many years of shooting.
Try tying a nock both above and below the arrow, and use a tab with a separator. I have a bow that gave me the same problems until I did this! Now all is well, and its a great shooter.