So I'm close guys to creating my first wood arrow set! Thanks so very much for all you very nice people that parted with great gear oven the last 45days. I plan to put it all to good use.
My question is to double check my stain, finish,glue combo just to make sure I don't make a stupid mistake?
I was going to use
mini wax poly stain,
use mini wax poly clear coat,
Rustoleum Enamel for cresting,
Testors enamel model paint for cresting,
Bohning Ferr-L- tite point glue
not sure of fletching glue? Bohning Fletch- tite ok?
And what ever I use on the fletching I can use on the nock right?
Sound ok guys? Thanks Jim
I recently made three doz arrows on top of the bazillion I already have and used min wax polyacrilic (sp)water base and duco cement for the glueing on of feathers. I have used everything out there and this combo is cheap and really holds on the water based min wax acrilic finish
Bohning Fletch Tite doesn't bond well with non-Bohning products. Bohning products are made to bond together well. If using other than Bohning paints, many people use Ducoe cement.
Yes and be careful that the poly don't make your cresting smear or run! Shawn
Put a couple of poly coats over the crest to make sure!!
OK, thanks for looking at it guys. I appreciate the input.
QuoteOriginally posted by SELFBOW19953:
Bohning Fletch Tite doesn't bond well with non-Bohning products. Bohning products are made to bond together well. If using other than Bohning paints, many people use Ducoe cement.
I have to disagree. I ownly use fletch tite for my feathers and I don't use any other Bohning products. I do use Duco and that is only for my nocks. I have been doing it this way for over 25 years.
The wifes nail polish and my furniture spray finishes make a real mess...
Your combination sounds fine except I use the Minwax Polycrylic water base over my stains and Rustoleum enamel caps. It also works great over the Testers cresting work. Put two coats over the top of everything as your last steps. It's easy to clean up with water and is pretty tough. And Duco works super well for the fletchings and nocks. Good luck and have fun.
Thank You Drew!
I've let the cresting stand over night before first coat of poly. Also I use duco for fletch with poly and it works great and it'cheap and available everywhere. Also have been using Kimsha Quick-Stick hot melt glue for points.
Ok smoke! Thanks guys :) stain going on today! Ha
Ok guys you got me. I have been making my own wood arrows for 30 years now and every time I get away from bohning products I run into some kind of a problim. But with the bohning products becoming way too costly I am willing to try again. So you all are saying I can use water based minwax clear coat and stain with oil based rustoleum enamel paint for my crown dip? And duco is fine for my feathers and hot melt for my points? Or should I use all oil based minwax products with the rustoleum enamel paint?
Also is this stain the kind that they have to mix? I have been to lowes and that is the only water based minwax stain they sold.
Finally started to work on my Surewood shafts. I applied 2 coats of Minwax Colonial Maple stain.
Tomorrow...Minwax Polyurethane, will hand rub in 4 coats after each coat dries, lightly sanding in between. Once the bottom of shaft is sealed, will apply one thin coat of Poly to 9" nock end.
After drying, crown dip with Bohning White, then redip again with a partial Hot Pink. Bohning crests and Bohning Glue for the nock and feathers.
Sort of old fashioned here, been using Bohning products for years with great results so I won't change....
dbond stay away from the water-based poly, stick with all the oil based stuff, paint, cresting and all. Shawn
Great , thank you. Is it ok to use the rustoleum enamel with the minwax stain and clear coat or poly. or spar ?
Shawn,
why do you say stay away from water based poly? I use it with great results wipe it on with a rag and steel wool between coats and it doesn't make the cresting run like oil based.
QuoteOriginally posted by J.T.:
Shawn,
why do you say stay away from water based poly? I use it with great results wipe it on with a rag and steel wool between coats and it doesn't make the cresting run like oil based.
X2. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but All I use is the waterbased, and have had nothing but excellent results. Minwax oilbased stain, Rustoleum paint and testors model car paint all topped with Waterbased polyurethane wood floor finish.
I guess I am going to have to try both.
Lots of different combinations out thers. Have to pick one and make some arrows! :)
I typically use Bohning myself but I will have to agree with Shawn on the oil based stuff if you opt for a hardware product. Oil based sealers are superior in vibrancy and protection.
I have tried other things in the past and always found one thing that would not work with something else. I always went back to the bohning products. I have always liked there stuff but now with the paint being $31 a quart and rustoleum being $9.75 a quart and so on I would really like to do my arrows with something else. I would think there is alot of other wood arrow guys out there who feel the same.
The stain (wish it was darker), the paint and the poly on these arrows are all water based.
(http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s331/selfbow19953/ARROWS/WB%20Arrows/WBArrows1.jpg) (http://s509.photobucket.com/user/selfbow19953/media/ARROWS/WB%20Arrows/WBArrows1.jpg.html)
(http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s331/selfbow19953/ARROWS/WB%20Arrows/WBArrows3.jpg) (http://s509.photobucket.com/user/selfbow19953/media/ARROWS/WB%20Arrows/WBArrows3.jpg.html)
(http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s331/selfbow19953/ARROWS/WB%20Arrows/WBArrows5.jpg) (http://s509.photobucket.com/user/selfbow19953/media/ARROWS/WB%20Arrows/WBArrows5.jpg.html)
Good looking arrows. The pink should really show up nice. I guess I will have to try both ways and see what happens.
QuoteOriginally posted by J.T.:
Shawn,
why do you say stay away from water based poly? I use it with great results wipe it on with a rag and steel wool between coats and it doesn't make the cresting run like oil based.
X3. Granted, I'm a newbie at arrow making, but no stranger to working with custom solid wood furniture and cabinets. I used all water based with sharpies and had excellent results. I only use three of the first dozen arrows I made and have shot those three arrows hundreds of times and they look as good now as the day I made them. I was really pleased at how durable the finish was/is.
A lot of info here. One more question, when using rust oleum for dip cresting, does it have to be thinned?
I use the cheap yellow can of minwax stain and wipe on poly for sealing, both from Walmart. Rustileum spray can for crown (slow drying stuff coats better) and sharpies. Use duco for nocks and fletch tape and had no issues yet. One trip to Walmart got me everything I needed.
I've been using minwax stain, water based acrylic to crest/dip etc, then wipe on poly to seal. Works well. Not a ton of work.
Then I used supergule to fletch. Seems to work pretty well.
I use the cheap yellow can of minwax stain and wipe on poly for sealing, both from Walmart. Rustileum spray can for crown (slow drying stuff coats better) and sharpies. Use duco for nocks and fletch tape and had no issues yet. One trip to Walmart got me everything I needed.
Can someone explain what you are doing with the sharpies. Adding color rings?
Yep color rings, aka. Cresting.
QuoteOriginally posted by Shawn Leonard:
dbond stay away from the water-based poly, stick with all the oil based stuff, paint, cresting and all. Shawn
Little bit of an outdated attitude here. I used to see this with old commercial painters that didn't want to accept new technology and practices.
Besides, for some areas it's going to get difficult to get oil-based products as VOC regulations change.
Guy
I wanted to take a minute and thank everyone that so patiently answered all my arrow making questions. I finished two dozen and am on to the third now. I'll post some picts in a min.
I chose to learn on 1/4" kid arrows from Kustom King they were about $26 for 100 shafts. I wanted to test my "recipe" before using more expensive shafts. I have 3 9-12yo kids that offered to shoot the arrows and reveal any building weaknesses :)
(http://i.imgur.com/qPvvSqz.jpg)
Set one, the orange, went to David for his 11th birthday a week ago. Set two, yellow, to his brother the same day.
I found these 33gr brass tips, from 50s in the classified section. For fun in each set I included 2 flu flu arrows and an arrow with a 223 brass shell weighing about 100gr... ha
(http://i.imgur.com/JNinqC0.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/b7yYqLd.jpg)
I've actually stained all 100 shafts that didn't break with straightening. Staining was actually really fun. I experimented a bit. The third set is for Jenna. I faded the stain to create a type of cresting.
(http://i.imgur.com/OyDWisD.jpg)
She loves green so using food coloring and vinegar we dyed some of the natural turkey feathers green for a cock feather. We used kool-aid to make a teal blue. I was shocked how well this went. I did a search on powwow to find instructions.
(http://i.imgur.com/G87H3Cn.jpg)
I made a lot of silly little mistakes and realized how important many little things were that in my excitement I rushed through... ie. nocks don't fit perfectly on tapers that are not perfect! lol
The shafts were to light and bendable for me to crest them on my cresting machine. I was a little disappointed in that but there are more shafts in my future :) Thanks for looking