Hey guys I just placed an order about a week ago for a dozen 32" stock douglas fir shafts. According to stu's calculator with my weighted tip I wanted and my bow I need to cut my arrow to 28 1/2". I saw someone here had posted previously (can't remember who) about that you need to add 3/4" to 1" for the 11 degree point taper, so I would need to cut mine 29 1/4 to 29 1/2" right? BTW I am using the traditional only taper tool from 3 rivers
And also I don't have any special 'shaft cutting tools' but I do have a chop saw, radial arm saw, hand saw, etc. How would I best go about cutting these shafts to these lengths and what would be a good tip to prevent splintering the ends after the cut? Would taping the area to be cut be a good way to deal with this? What do you guys do?
Thanks
Randy
Wood shafts are measured to the back or the point, so yes, you need to add an inch or more to that length for your cut, in your case 29 1/2". I prefer a long taper and add 1 1/8". You can always cut it shorter.
Any of the saws you mention will work just fine. If you can set it up with a fence that will help. With the chop or radial, I would bundle the shafts together and cut them all at once. Splintering isn't reall an issue as you are going to remove it with the taper. Point taper is 5 deg, BTW.
Thanks for the help, and good point that I will be taking out the splinter with the tool, i just don't want to ruin these shafts and have to make another order. Did I put 11? DOH! I meant 5, 11 degree is the nock :knothead: I knew that :rolleyes: :goldtooth:
I am going to be finishing them and cresting them myself, I'll post pictures when they're done!
Careful using Stu's calculator!! Shawn
I use a 10" chop saw and cut a fistful-12 or so-at a time. The 'arrow saw' I bought is just too darned slow.
I have an X-acto miter box and saw from a hobby/craft store. With one of these you can be much more accurate with your cuts and there is no risk of splintering and ruining a shaft.
This method is slower, but I think it is better.
I just roll mine under a utility knife and then snap off the end.
Guy
I saw mine with a little coping saw from the local hardware store.
I roll mine at the band saw, same effect, no splintering.
I use the hobby miter box on my wood arrows. In the past I have scored them with a box knife and snapped them off. Both work fine enough, but with the saw there is not as much risk of splintering them.
RonP
QuoteOriginally posted by smokin joe:
I have an X-acto miter box and saw from a hobby/craft store. With one of these you can be much more accurate with your cuts and there is no risk of splintering and ruining a shaft.
This method is slower, but I think it is better.
I use a miter box also. I would cut and finish to length one arrow if your not exactly sure about the correct spine. After dialing in that one arrow to the correct length for your bow, only then, would I cut the rest of the shafts. Better to be safe than sorry. Have fun, your going to like those shafts!
QuoteOriginally posted by Shawn Leonard:
Careful using Stu's calculator!! Shawn
Don't worry Shawn, I bought the test pack of the glue on field points ranging from 100 to 190 grains. I'm sure that with the range of spines 50-55 I will have some shafts that shoot better with different sized weights so I will find 3 or so which have a consistent spine and fly best out of the same or similar weighted tips to use as hunting arrows and the rest will be back up/practice arrows.
Thanks for the replies everyone. Just to be safe I think I will tape the end of the shaft where I will cut to reduce splintering then taper. Also do you all stain and seal and crown the shaft before cutting and tapering or after?
I put the nock tapper on, then finish, then cut to length usually. It doesn't matter a great deal however you want to do it.
Japanese dovetail saw for me. Why? Because I've got one for hand cutting dovetails and they give a nice smooth cut.
You might want to leave them longer and cut as you tune, so as to not get them to stiff. Instead of just wacking them all.
Denny
I use a 12" miter saw and cut them one at a time.
I cut, taper, then stain and seal...otherwise you'll get a little blemish just behind the point with no stain/seal. If you're just testing right now that doesn't really matter though.
I made a fixture from a simple piece of pine. I put a nail in one end and put lines at 1/2 inch increments past 26 inches like a fish measuring board. Install a knock on the shaft then put the knock in the nail then saw end off with a coping saw at the preferred increment. It works great if your making a dozen arrows.