I bought a couple dozen of New Easton Axis 500 via classifieds, what came was 2 dozen but one already had the inserts installed, my question is.. does anyone shoot these full lenght? I mainly shoot a 45-50# recurve...
Depends on what weight head you shoot and what your draw is? If ya like 4"s of arrow hanging past the back of your bow? Bunch of factors. I know guys who shoot them full length but have 29.5-30" draw lengths. Shawn
Since they have the inserts already installed,give them a try and see how they shoot bare for you.For me with carbons they don't come in as many different spines as wood or aluminum.I let my tuning determine their final length.Like with your Axis you have 300,340,400,500 and now a 600 static spines.You adjust the dynamic spine by shooting,trimming the length or changing front end weights to find the best arrow for you.
I have about a 30 inch draw and I tend to shoot a lot of arrows full length...never actually had any carbon axis arrows but shoot both the epics and the axis fmj's...i tend to tune with point weight...seems to me that full length 500's shot fine for me out of bows between 45 and 50 pounds at my draw length with some old 142 grain Razorbaks...have not shot them for a while since I moved on to higher draw weight bows with 400 and 340 spine arrows
DDave
I prefer a full length arrow. I don't care how much hangs over the shelf. I'd try a 175gn head on that 500 with your 45lber. bet you will like it.
I think the Axis 500 is 30". I have been shooting Easton Redlines in 500 spine full length out of a 45# with 15 gr heads and they fly great.
Problem is.. with the inserts already in, I cant add anymore weight, my usual is 29.25" with 100gr brass inserts and 100 grn points. THese are 9/32" so 175gr points are hard to find if not impossible (most are 5/16"), wished the seller would have advise me this before shipping, it would save a lot of brain cells. He wont even disclose what glue he used, anywho, thanks for all of the advice, kinda suck to have a one set of arrows different from the rest if you know what I mean. I guess for $75 shipped, I can't complain.
first,you can try removing an insert using the drill bit method.
You could cut the ones with inserts installed,from the back,even if you had to refletch.
I can't see any reason not to use 5/16" points.A 5/16" point only overhangs the 9/32" shaft by 1/64" which equals .015.That's tiny.
If that bothers you,chuck the point in a drill and use a mill file to taper off that tiny little bit of overhang.It will only reduce weight a couple grains.
I shoot Easton FMJ 500's from a bunch of bows both longbows and recurves with weights between 40# and 50#. I shoot groups from 15 or 20 yards and depending on where they strike I will add or subtract weigh by changing heads. I use 60# to 125# heads. Are you shooting split or three under because shooting three under will be helped with the long over hang. It will decrease your gap. Another think I wanted to mention is that the 500 shaft uses a 17/64" points and not 9/32 as you mentioned. Good luck.
Regards,
Grouse
I don't shoot them full-length because my draw is only 26". I could of course tune them by reducing point weight to stiffen the spine. However, I can't stand a lot of arrow (more than 1-1.5 inches) out the back of the bow.
My 500's are cut to 27 1/4". My draw is 26 3/4" I have a 75 gr brass insert and a 175 gr point. Recurve is 47#@27". I was using the Easton broadhead adapters #3, but now I foot them with a 1916 cut 1 1/2" long. The foot has saved a lot of arrows. They fly so nice and flat.
Was cutting mine to 29 got lazy and left them uncut and they fly the same ? I like them sticking out abit. Try it and see what happens. I draw about 27 1/2.
Thanks Guys, will give them a go
Weigh one from each dozen so you know what weight insert was installed. Like said trim from the back to shorten if needed while bareshaft tuning.
Others gave great advice. I shoot mine full length and tune via tip weight. It gets depressing surfing the classifieds and seeing a great deal on arrows, only to find they are 26 or 27 inches long. 8O( I also use hot melt glue and foot mine, never any problems and it makes them tough as nails!
The one that has the insert installed is not "lost".
Tune to the length you need and cut that one from the nock end. Or cut them all from the nock end if you want them all too look exactly the same.
If you give us more info about your bow and your draw length, I'm sure someone can get you close.
My draw lenght is 27", the bows I shoot are in my signature.. mostly Hummingbird Kingfisher and Toelke Whip. both around the 48#-49#
This is the first time I tried the Easton Axis, before all I shoot were Beman MFX 500 and GT3555.. the deal on the Axis was $75 a doz, new.. I guess it was too good to be true, as the guy is not returning emails and didn't even include the brass inserts.. the chance we take in the classifieds
You should be able to screw a field point in and slowly heat the field point up. (Just the point) The heat will transfer to the insert softening the glue. Do this slowly and don't apply heat to the shaft itself, they should come out.
If you end up not happy with your purchase, these are what I shoot. I would take some, or all them off your hands.
If the insert was put in with the 2 part epoxy that came with them it won't come out without destroying the arrow. If you heat it it will delaminate.LCH
Them arrows come with the 2 part epoxy, a plastic insert tool, a little pink round grinding stone, and aluminum inserts.
$75 a dozen is Camofire sale range pricing for bare shafts. That would have been a deal had they been untouched.
Like was said, you can try installing a large(long) steel field point and heating it slowly allowing the heat to transfer to the aluminum insert. This may work, but maybe not. Havent tried on an epoxy installed insert.
At 30" if you cut maybe 2" off you'll likely cut off the insert if a 28" arrow works for you.
Or flip them around. The insert is probably in far enough for the nock to fit fine. If so you would have a little extra weight (16 grains) in the rear, but could likely tune for it.
If you need the epoxy, stone, insert tool kit hit up a local pro shop. They seem to often have them laying around or for sale. After a few years you'll have your own collection of little green tools and pink stones.