Saw this bow in a local flea market type shop, looked to be in pretty good condition, no seperation in limb materials, no major gouges or scratches, the finish has some wear. But what confused me was the info on the bow... Here is what it said and here are the pics.
Ben Pearson
Cougar 706-64"
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b523/Arkansas-Osage/07f774dd-75db-4399-ba80-96cc409a91a2_zps6d725768.jpg)
06-26277
30XX-28/
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b523/Arkansas-Osage/cf9a3488-ab5a-4ea4-aa67-1f2cb8145899_zps77f31626.jpg)
I think that means its 64" long, and is 30# draw at 28" but I just wanted to check with ya'll and make sure. I have no idea what the 706 means, or the 06-26277.
But I would like any info you can offer, also, how good a bow it is, would be a good small game bow and how much it should be worth? Thanks- Matt.
Mid-60's Pearson Cougar. Probably 32 lb (30xx) at 28" draw, 64" length. 706 is the model number, don't know anything about the BP serial numbers. Not a fancy bow, but a good one. 30 lb is too light for hunting, but great for kids, non-hunters and working on form.
30lb would be enough for rabbits, squirrels ect right? Whats it worth? thanks.
If it is in a flea market type store, it probably is negotiable on the price. What are they asking for it? Without knowing what they want for it, I would say offer them $50. Would not go much more unless it looked just like new. If they want less than $50 I would say buy it if you want it. Like said above, good poundage for small game and working on form.
QuoteOriginally posted by Hermon:
What are they asking for it?
It was marked $35, with a bow sock, but no string and the strike plate and arrow shelf padding needed replaced.
I'd buy it just because. That would be a great first bow for somebody.
I would buy that in a minute for $35 jut make sure the limbs aren't twisted. I bought my girlfriend a COLT from the same generation a few years back for her first bow. It still works amazing I re finished it about a year later. She still enjoys it.
Love vintage bows!
I'll probably go get it, I just wish it was 54" instead of 64" and 40# instead of 30#.
Looks like a nice bow, but would not be my first choice for hunting. Get something with a bit more power, and if you want shorter get shorter. One of the most important aspects of shooting well on game is confidence in your gear.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
Looks like a nice bow, but would not be my first choice for hunting. Get something with a bit more power, and if you want shorter get shorter. One of the most important aspects of shooting well on game is confidence in your gear.
I'll probably use it for indoor shooting, or just plinking cans and stuff. I've only owned selfbows, this will be the first laminated bow I'll have owned, so hopefully if an older model bow like this shoots well and doesn't blow up on me I'll have more confidence in spendng $250+ on other laminated bows I've been looking at. Of course the opposite could be true, if it does break on me it might discourage me from buying those nicer bows which wouldn't break... lol.
I could be WAY wrong, but I think the standard was to add an x or x's after the poundage as it increased, but didn't make the next 5# level. I would bet that bow is a lot closer to 35# than 30#.
Personally, I'd grab it just to have a light weight bow to shoot. It definitely will bring out any flaws in your form or release and besides, they're just plain fun.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bladepeek:
I could be WAY wrong, but I think the standard was to add an x or x's after the poundage as it increased, but didn't make the next 5# level. I would bet that bow is a lot closer to 35# than 30#.
Personally, I'd grab it just to have a light weight bow to shoot. It definitely will bring out any flaws in your form or release and besides, they're just plain fun.
Hmm, probably right, seems strange they wouldn't just write the digit, like instead of 30XX just write 34.
Hard to tell if the limbs are twisted without a string. Maybe take one along and string it up to check.
I don't have a string of the correct length, will have to order one after I buy it.
Get B-50/B-500 Dacron for the string. Would strongly NOT recommend a hard string for that bow.
Yeah, it seems like a strange way to mark the draw weight, but starting around the mid 60's, that's how it was done. I think it made it easier for the mfg to fill orders. A "30" lb bow was 28-32 lb, a 35 was 33-37. On many of the Bears, the actual weight can be found written under the side plate; I don't recall if Pearson did the same. My old Necedah is 40+, so 41 or 42 lb.
The XX on the right side of the 30 signifies it is 32 lbs. at 28".
I believe that you can't hunt with it in Arkansas. I'm almost certain there is a 40# minimum for all game - I know that's the limit for deer but there may be a smaller limit for small game. I would write to the Game and Fish to make certain before risking a fine.
That might make a good bow for form practice or indoors plinking. If you don't buy it then shoot me a pm and I'll pick it up for the wife.
Well I got the bow. I took a string I had for a long bow thats made in a flemish twist style out of artificial sinew and the string is 60" long. I thought this would be just about right but it seems to be too short, yet the numbers seem to say it would be too long. Here's the specs on the bow, measureing from limb tip to limb tip along the belley of the bow its 65 1/2" long, from nock to nock its 63 1/2". So if the AMO is 63 1/2" the string should be 4" shorter than that... 59 1/2". So a 60" string should be just about right, you would think it might even need twisting a bit. But when the string is nocked on the lower limb groove the upper loop is 5" away from the upper nock instead of 4" or less. And that just doesn't make sense, 63.5" nock to nock, 60" string should put it 3.5" away from reaching the top nock... unless I'm missing something. This is the first recurve I've owned so I'm probably missing something, but I thought the string length should be 4" shorter than the AMO length of the bow. In this case the string is 3.5" shorter than the AMO length, yet its 5" short of the upper nock. And then when I brace it I'm pretty sure its braced too high, because it braces at 7 1/4" and the string is not touching the limbs at either end. I was thinking the brace height would be 6.5-7". Since it seems to be braced almost an inch high, and the upper loop is 5" instead of 4" from the top nock should I get a 61" string? It draws and shoots pretty smooth with the 60" string, but it doesn't feel tuned properly, and I'm attributing that to a "too high" brace height. Any thoughts and suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.
QuoteOriginally posted by GDPolk:
I believe that you can't hunt with it in Arkansas. I'm almost certain there is a 40# minimum for all game - I know that's the limit for deer but there may be a smaller limit for small game. I would write to the Game and Fish to make certain before risking a fine.
For deer and bear I know its 40lb, but I've never been able to find a minimum poundage for turkey and small game.
It turns out its not a recurve, I should have paid more attention lol, its a reflex longbow. Thats why the string is too short, so I'll get a string that fits and then post up some pics. Kinda wishin I had saved my $30 and gotten a true recurve off that unmentionable site around 50" and 40# for probably not too much more money.
Even if its not what you would really prefer, you probably did all right on the deal. I imagine that if you take it to a few shoots with a for sale sign on it,somebody will gladly pay you $30.00 to get a youngster started. I also second the suggestion that you check state regs for poundage minimum even for small game.
For $30 and it shoots, you did just fine. This bow is pre-AMO so that doesn't really count. 7.25" brace doesn't sound bad for this era of bow. Where are you measuring to?
If you really want to confuse your understanding of bow and string length, go to the AMO website and look up AMO bow length. Basically, the string has a standard and the bow is made to fit the string.
QuoteOriginally posted by Fletcher:
For $30 and it shoots, you did just fine. This bow is pre-AMO so that doesn't really count. 7.25" brace doesn't sound bad for this era of bow. Where are you measuring to?
If you really want to confuse your understanding of bow and string length, go to the AMO website and look up AMO bow length. Basically, the string has a standard and the bow is made to fit the string.
I am measuring the standard way to measure brace height, from the deepest part of the riser to the string, essentially the part of the grip that touches between your thumb and first finger. I think a 61" string would fit it better, I should have one soon. Its 63.5" between the nocks and the string is 60" and it just feels overbraced... I can't describe it, it just doesn't feel tuned properly.
One thing's for sure, we'll never know until you try the longer string. If you have a hard time finding one, let me know. It wouldn't take much to spin one up.
My girlfriends making one for me, thank you though. I'll post how it feels with the longer string.
Per my Ben Pearson catalogs recommended brace height for that bow is 7-7 1/2 inches. Also I am going to say it a 1962 or 63 bow. In 64 they switched to contrasting hardwoods for the riser and in '59 (don't have a '60 catalog) the riser had a different shape than yours.
Thanks alot man, does it give a string length? thats what I really need to know.
QuoteOriginally posted by Arkansas Osage:
Thanks alot man, does it give a string length? thats what I really need to know.
No it does not. It does however list a draw limit of 29"......
Well the 60" string fits it good with a brace height of 7.5 I put some hairy beaver string silencers on there and that took alot of the "boing!" noise out and its shooting 5" groups at 25 yrds so I'm happy.