Good afternoon TG, posed this question on another awesome sight, looking for some helpful hints here as well. Shooting the bow in my signature, with 30" Beman IC Hunter arrows (the cheap yellow ones) with 75 grain brass inserts and 175 grain points. They are roughly 500 grains excluding feathers and nocks. I do like how they shoot (being .400 spine) but would like a heavier arrow that isnt' going to cost me $120+ per dozen. Any ideas?
get some weight tubes.. they will work in a pinch or buy some new/use shafts in classifieds but weight tubes will work especially if you like what you got now.. minor retuning if any
GT blems from Big Jim. 55/75 or go up to 75/95 and load em up!
Easton legacy shafts are only about 25-30 per half dozen and are great arrow
Try to cut your arrow of a 1/2" and you need at least 50gr more upfront,or maybe also 3/4",still long enough and you don't have to buy new shafts.
I draw 29" and i cut my arrow 29" even,but with a brass insert and the broadhead i just barely tuch the riser and this give me a kind of clicker.
QuoteOriginally posted by Iowabowhunter:
Good afternoon TG, posed this question on another awesome sight, looking for some helpful hints here as well. Shooting the bow in my signature, with 30" Beman IC Hunter arrows (the cheap yellow ones) with 75 grain brass inserts and 175 grain points. They are roughly 500 grains excluding feathers and nocks. I do like how they shoot (being .400 spine) but would like a heavier arrow that isnt' going to cost me $120+ per dozen. Any ideas?
Why do you need a heavier arrow?
You can still find Beman MFX Classic shafts around if you look for them. At 30 inches with the 75 grain insert and 175 grain points, you would be looking at a finished weighted arrow around 560 grains excluding fletches. Those shafts can be purchased for less than the $120 that you mention.
Stick with what you have; you are shooting 9 GPP approximately by your own numbers.
I have to agree with Bjorn 9gpp. is fine out of that Talltines. I myself shoot 8-9gpp. for all my bows and I get two holes in everything I shoot as long as I stay of the shoulder and in that case gpp. may not help anyway. Shawn
Stay away from the 7595's unless you go with camo or nugent (.340spine) wood is .300 spine and all the weight on ones shoulders wouldn't make them shoot right.
We still have some 5575 blems on hand at least for a couple days...maybe. Fletched arrows for $81 per doz. 30" arrow = with 100g brass and 175g tip will weigh in around 570 and be a good bit tougher the the ics. We sell those too by the way.
thanks, bigjim
They will be fine for deer and turkeys, I would like a quieter shot and for the arrow to have a little more oomph behind it. Does anybody know what gpi the Beman MFX are? I was originally going to go with the Easton FMJ's but for some reason when I shot them in my compound I couldn't keep them straight after a season or two?
I bought 3 340 spine FMJ's to try a couple of years ago now and those arrows have been shot into and bounced off all sorts of things (unfortunately no game animals)...they weigh right about 600 grains full length with the standard inserts and a 200 grain broadhead...i also have some 400 spines that weigh about 525 grains with a 175 grain broadhead...the thing i like about the FMJ is it is easy to make reasonable weights without a lot of fooling around...pricey yes, but worth it in the long run
Stiffer shaft and more tip weight. You can use GT75/95 blems from big jim ... 100gr brass inserts ... whatever heads you need and then add brass insert weights until they're tuned ... they'll be heavy ...
Prolly close to 650-700grains ... or weight tubes ...
Would like to just keep the arrows if possible, with the high cost of feathers etc. Curious to see if the weight tubes effect spine?
I've been shooting Victory shafts (which are light) and I put the black weed wacker line made by Stihl. I'm shooting 59# with a 400 series arrow and it took them from 515 gn up to 600 with a standard insert and a 225 gn point. Should be a cheap way for you to bump them up in weight.
I think having weight is important and maintaining a certain gpi for the task at hand is also important, but don't lose sight of putting the arrow where it needs to go with proper flight and having a very sharp broadhead!
If you have a very heavy arrow that doesn't fly good you're hurting yourself more than sacrificing a little weight, but having an arrow that flies straight and true.
The weight tubes are going to weaken (at least in my experiences) your arrows which is OK if you have have enough shaft to cut and stiffen the shaft accordingly.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
Stick with what you have; you are shooting 9 GPP approximately by your own numbers.
+ 2
I've used weight tubes and remember thikning they do affect spione ... I believe they make the dynamic spine stiffer, but then you could add a little point weight to fix that I suppose .... maybe it's not all that much spine difference anyway.
hmm. I have a doz broadheads in 175 grain and won't be able or willing to try and sell them n buy more :/
try weed wacker line cheaper than weight tubes. All you can do is try since you don't want to buy new shafts or points maybe it won't affect the spine much.
You take one shaft, go to Menards, Home Depot or Lowes and check for Poly or braided nylon cord that fits snuggly into the shaft(pull nock out, most 1/4" work with 5/16" carbons).
Take a grain scale and weigh 1 inch of cord.
Then determine length needed to get to the weight you want. If the length is less (about 2/3" of the shaft length or so), then heat your field point and pull insert out as soon as you can pull it. Heat, try to pull, heat some more, etc. you get the picture. Pull out nock. Clean broken down glue from inserts, pull a long piece of serving thread through the shaft. make a loop and pull cord through shaft until about a little bit before it would hit the insert (just measure insert lenghts and a little bit).Pull serving thread through insert, put 2P-Epoxy on insert and a dab of it on end of insert. Push insert all the way in. Pull on serving thread to seat cord on back of insert. Take sharp knife, cut serving thread in insert as far down as you can and screw in a field point with waxed threads.
Let epoxy harden with nockside down. You now permanently fixed the cord to back of insert and if you do 1/3 or 2/3 you gained more FOC.
Cost: $1 Dollar Store 5 min Epoxy
$7 cord to do at least 18 arrows (50 ft)
Weight tubes cost money and change spine. Cord is cheap and does not change spine.
QuoteOriginally posted by Iowabowhunter:
Does anybody know what gpi the Beman MFX are?
Beman MFX Classic 340: 11.2 gpi
Beman MFX Classic 400: 10.4 gpi
Beman MFX Classic 500: 9.7 gpi
Beman MFX Classic 600: 8.0 gpi
Hey Mr. Wessel do you glue the weedwacker line into the shaft?
No. I put the line in and cut it so that it will allow the nock to go back in the shaft. Btw, stop the Mr. stuff. : )
I think you are fine at your arrow weight. Especially for whitetails and other light North American Big game. The only time you would need to up your arrow weight is for something like a moose and the like.
500 grains is perfect. I have killed 5 deer the last 2 years with 500 grain arrows out of a 50 pound bow. One was at 25 yards...the buck in my avatar. Blew right threw.
If you want more weight add it on the point and dont worry about going up in spine. Carbon shafts are stiffer and can handle more than people think. When Muzzy was developing the brass inserts for carbon arrows I was involved in the prototype testing and I loaded up to 400 grains to the front of an arrow without any change in flight except for the drop.
Didn't read all the posts, but I would switch to the GT5575 trad next time you get arrows. Low price, heavier, and way more durable.
To use what you have maybe build out your side plate a little and go up to 100gr. inserts. That will get you a little more weight without a change to broadheads. You can do the same thing by adding larger or second set of silencers. That will take off some efficiency so stiffen your arrow a little more plus quiet your bow more. Then you get quieter bow and can up your insert a little more in weight.
I have not seen where weight tubes are that great. Weed whacker string was okay if bent some to keep it somewhat quiet. Rope settled on me and shot lousy.
If you can cut your arrows more and add another 25 gr. in insert and point weights do it. I don't like the larger than 175 field points much, but I love heavy broadheads now although I do really like the 175 VPA and try and tune to it when I can.
I see no real problem with what you have now.
I am going to try the weedwacker line as I just can't justify getting new arrows, and I have a doz VPA 175 grain heads that I can't afford to replace. If not then the weight tubes will be up next
I personally wouldn't go any heavier. As they are you should be just under 10gpp which will give you the best combo of speed and KE.
I'm not worried about speed, quiet kills. I draw 29" which makes a 57# bow, with 500-505 grain arrows they are pretty quick but I want them quieter. I got out of the compound thing because all anbody cares about is speed, I'm shooting fast enough as it is, I want a heavier arrow to help with sound dampening and a harder hitting arrow. I want to be as close as possible so speed doesn't matter a rip to me anyways.