So I just want to thank Bud B. and JLyle for the 2117 footings. These that are on the GT now came from Bud. I really like the looks of the black on the woodgrain. Gonna look good in my TH quiver on my Hoyt Dorado. Its black with the woodgrain limbs. I will post some more pics when I get them fletched up. I will say this they will be Bright!!!
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a260/jandscranford/693_zps270f6f51.jpg) (http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a260/jandscranford/694_zpsfa0e823e.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a260/jandscranford/695_zpscb6d09b7-1.jpg)
Very nice! Those should be darned near indestructible. Looking forward to the finished pics.
They look good. I need to try this on some of my arrows.
They should look good with Your Dorado Jeff. Hope they shoot good for You.
bretto
:thumbsup:
The black looks really sharp! Great job!
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a260/jandscranford/004-17_zpsb20191bc.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a260/jandscranford/005-12_zps1bd9a486.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a260/jandscranford/006-9_zps05810a36.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a260/jandscranford/007-8_zpse0885b64.jpg)
2117? I always found them to be a tad loose for a footing on the GT's. Just curious as if they fit tight? Shawn
Shawn, I could hardly get them on they were so tight. Maybe the new GT are a little thicker. Not sure but they are tight. By the way I have them cut to 28.5 and have 250g up front and they fly great. Thanks for the input on spine. You were a great help.
Jeff
Cool bud!! Shawn
Thanks guys. Hey Bretto how are you liking the Mohawk.
Great looking setup!
I am new to carbons,been using wood for 30+ years , but I was going to try some for a new bow I just build so I am sorry if this is a dumb question.What are you using for the footing material??wood,aluminum????
And I just want to say I am new to this site,but not new to trad hunting and have learned more on this site in the short time I discovered it then all my years at this stuff.
Thanks
Same here for 2117s for GT Trad 35/55s. They fit very snug. I use an RCBS case reamer to dress the inside and outside edge. I find the slightly beveled inside edge helps get the footing on without scraping the finish off the arrow shaft. With such a tight fit I have also had some minor problems with getting glue in between the shaft and the footing. The footing almost acts like a squeegie and pushes the glue away. I rough up the shaft at the footing end and it help the Gorilla Super Glue to find gaps to remain and thereby bond the connection. And this is done before the insert is installed.
Glad their working Jeff.
QuoteOriginally posted by rockkiller:
I am new to carbons,been using wood for 30+ years , but I was going to try some for a new bow I just build so I am sorry if this is a dumb question.What are you using for the footing material??wood,aluminum????
And I just want to say I am new to this site,but not new to trad hunting and have learned more on this site in the short time I discovered it then all my years at this stuff.
Thanks
Al,
There's a footing chart in the How-To section placed there by Charlie Lamb. Old aluminum arrows shafts are used for footing carbons (or aluminum can foot aluminum). Mostly footings are used to toughen up the point end of the shaft for when shots hit rocks or other hard objects. It strengthens the carbons and prevents splitting. Some folks, as you can see in Jeff's pics, also "foot" the nock end to prevent splits from glancing blows on trees and rocks. Glancing blows tend to "kick" out nocks from carbons as the nocks aren't glued in, they're pressed in. I too have "footed" my nock ends of my stumping arrows, but not my hunting arrows. My hunting arrows have point footings only. The nock footing needs only to be about 1/4" or a little less. Get too small and they're hard to work with.
Point footings can range from 1/2" to 3 or more inches. I tend to use them for bomb-proofing my carbons. Some folks use them to gain point weight for high FOC. A 1" 2117 piece of shafting weighs roughly 12 grains.
Jeff's pics are a fine example of making arrows that will give the Energizer Bunny a run for his money and likely beat him and a second and third sets of batteries. Don't lose them and they'll last for a very long time.
Sorry to be long winded and no intent to hi-jack the thread, Jeff. I'd like to see a whitetail lying next to one of those arrows this fall.
Shoot straight.
Bud
Bud, Thank you for explaining. I couldn't have done any better. I hope to get a whitetail this fall. Or a Turkey this spring. I need some meat in the freezer.
Thanks
Jeff
Bud ,thanks for the info.I ordered a GT test kit and will have to try footing them if I stick with them.For some reason its hard to go away from woods. :dunno:
Just curious and hope I can ask a question here without hijacking your thread but can't the 2117's be used on the 15/35 and 55/75"s? I thought the outside was the same and only difference would be wall thickness in the Gold tips...
The inside stays the same....the difference is wall thickness,2217's only works on the 35-55, I had to go to 2216 for the 55-75.
Nice looking footings! I would get kicked out of the kitchen though if I were building arrows on the counter....
real nice footings and i do like the arrow finish you won't lose those in a hurry well done Buddy :thumbsup: :clapper:
Has anyone used nock collars for footing ?