I played around with the 45# limbs on my TT and the Heritage 150's. This is as close as I could get with my marginal form. I need to bare shaft the 3/8" nock height for comparison but I thought I'd ask for feedback. Are these close enough?
The BH is 7 1/8". The 150's are 30" with 100 grain tips. I did paper tuning at 8-9 feet and then backed up to 21 which is the max I can do i my basement. The pics are viewed as I shot the target, ignore the sideways writing.
If this is what I'm looking for I'm going to work on the 51# limbs with the Heritage 250's.
1/2" nock
(http://bambooflyrods.com/images/bows/12.jpeg)
3/8" nock
(http://bambooflyrods.com/images/bows/38.jpeg)
1/2" nock bareshaft
(http://bambooflyrods.com/images/bows/12bs.jpeg)
Mine is good also at 1/2" above also that's where you should be good with
I think your paper may be too thick and might be giving you a better than reality tear.
Also, you should paper tune at about 5-6' to get a good reading.
Any farther back and the fletch will have taken over straightening out the arrow...instead of the spine itself.
I backed up only after having done it closer. I will try newspaper tonight since that's substantially thinking than I was using.
Thanks for the tip!
news paper works pretty good for me.
Really truly though,,,I'm not trying to be a jerk...
8-9' really is 2x too far for a good reading.
Good luck!
Hope you end up with no tares!
:thumbsup:
I didn't take your response badly.
I reached a point where there wasn't much more I could do with changing the nock and BH to affect change.
I'm gonna mess around more with it tonight with newspaper.
Agree paper looks a bit thick and those arrows are way too stiff!! If you draw 28"s and it is 45#s you will need a lot more point weight on those 150's at least 225 grains or a bit more and the 250's I would not even know exactly how much. See how the bareshaft is way left of the fletched, if you were 20 yards away that bareshaft would not even be on target assuming you are right handed. Also go to 5/8ths on the nock point. Also paper tunig at around 15ft. is good for trad bows, at 5-6 ft arrow is still going thru paradox, 21 ft. is a bit to far I believe. Shawn
The 51# limbs will shoot those 150's good, if ya leave them at 29.5"s and go to 175 point weight maybe a tad more! Shawn
Interesting comments about the tip weights. The way they are set up is spot on for Stu's calculator. I draw 27.5 to 27.75.
I'll try heavier weights and thinner paper and give results.
Anything larger than 100 causes increasing left tears as I go up in weight. The 100's seem best on paper.
I can't seem to adjust my nock point to stop the upward tear no matter how far I move the nock up or down so I assume its my form. What issue with my form could cause the same thing?
I will start off by saying I can never and I mean never get a perfect tear in paper. In my experience paper tuning is very much controlled by your release. I mean the slightest difference in tab drag or anything seems to effect mine. I use O.L. Adcock's method of bare shaft tuning to do all my tuning. Here is the link to it. http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm
Give it a try unless you are dead set on paper tuning. I find it to be much easier. To me judging from your group of arrows your shafts seem petty good as it really only matters if your bareshafts group with your fletched arrows. I would try shooting a group of 2 or 3 arrows along with 2 or 3 bare shafts and if they group together call it good.
Bareshafting seems to confirm that the 150's are tuned for the 45# limbs. The 250's needed to drop from 145 gn tips to 125 and now no left tears. I don't want to defletch my arrows to bareshaft them though. I'll wait until some get worn out.
Thanks everyone!
You also have to remember your brain adjust quickly, so even arrows that are way out of tune will hit where you are looking in a matter of several shots. Shawn
Try that bareshaft through paper. It is very telling and moving further back will not hide anything because there is nothing to correct poor flight.
Tuning as stated depends on consistent release I prefer paper tuning over bare shaft
I think it gets over thought and beat to death :deadhorse: :deadhorse:
x2
.........but...we gotta get em flying straight someway.
I prefer paper too.
Paper tuning bare shafts would be limited to only those with FAR FAR AND AWAY better releases than I.
I have one or more of the following:
1) poor form (probably true)
2) poor consistency (true)
3) forgiving bow (probably true)
4) forgiving arrows (no idea)
The bow paper tunes best with 100 grain tips. It bareshafts best with 200, 225 or 250's equally well. Go figure.
With bareshafting and paper you can get false info. I always consider them to be what will get me close. Put a broadhead on your arrows and see what happens..... Broadhead tells what's important.
I'm just gonna practice more until I actually can discern a difference. My equipment is way better than me.
Wise beyond his post count....
QuoteOriginally posted by Blaino:
With bareshafting and paper you can get false info. I always consider them to be what will get me close. Put a broadhead on your arrows and see what happens..... Broadhead tells what's important.
AMEN.
i've tried the adcock method and find i can get BH's and bareshafts to group together but the BH would still have poor flight. no one hunts with bareshafts, BH's are the bottom line.
i just take a fletched BH on a shaft i know is weak and trim till i get good flight.