3 Rivers sells them. I can not get blades for my true taper tool anymore. Also for Bambo and Sitka arrows the blades do not work so well.
I am looking for opinions as to how well this block works ... do you like it or not, etc.
Thanks,
Bob.
Do a search here for Taper Jig. You've got options.
Bob, ya got a router with a V bit and a protractor?
YES? - make one
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/mandoman_2006/Arrows/P5200032.jpg)
I wish I did, I have belt sander ... that is about it. Most of tools are in the chainsaw department.
Good looking jig!
Bob.
QuoteOriginally posted by WESTBROOK:
Bob, ya got a router with a V bit and a protractor?
YES? - make one
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/mandoman_2006/Arrows/P5200032.jpg)
I see the taper jig on the disc sander. What is the set up on the belt sander for?
Putting on a rear shaft taper.
QuoteOriginally posted by WESTBROOK:
Putting on a rear shaft taper.
Do you have a full picture of the set up for rear shaft taper on he belt sander? Im curious as to how you maintain the proper angle to get a gradual taper down to the nock end. Are you tapering from 11/32 to 5/16? Thanks
Westbrook, if you could ,Please post some hints and tips on belt sander , how you spin arrow and how to be consistent in obtaining same measurement on tip from arrow to arrow. Please and Thank You, Ken
UDS...the little piece of luan has a small hole drilled in it, I lay a 5/16 (2018) shaft on the belt and line it up with the hole, this sets the nock diameter.
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/mandoman_2006/Arrows/P5200028.jpg)
Then I just put some light pencil marks at 9-10" up the shaft. Fire up the sander, put the nock point in the hole and slowly lower the shaft(constantly rotating it) onto the belt. Keep lowering the shaft till you reach you marks on the shaft...thats it.
Probably the most critical part is to make sure your shafts are ABSOLUTELY STRAIGHT as possible.
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/mandoman_2006/Arrows/P5200032.jpg)
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/mandoman_2006/Arrows/P5200033.jpg)
Westbrook ! A huge Thank You! I have been trying to rig something up for this , and this is exactly what I needed. I'm off to the races now . Ken
Chuck your shaft into a drill motor to rotate the shaft. Pay attention and be careful.
CTT
Sure,
I wouldnt suggest trying to use a drill or anything else to spin the shaft, the weight will tend to bow the shaft and will lead to inconsistencies. With a little practice you will do just fine spinning them by hand.
You can move the shaft from side to side on the belt while gringing without effecting anything and you wont clog the belt in front of the nock whole.
Glad I can help!
Eric
Chuck, I tried that...with the weight of the drill, you wont know your slightly bowing the shaft.
Eric
I'm surprised you cant get blades anymore..
I have a tru-center taper tool and a bear paw.
The bearpaw worked GREAT on my Hildebrand spruce.
The tru-center just chewed the heck outta them..with brand new blades.
The tru-center holds the blades at a slightly different angle than the bearpaw...maybe this is the difference.
I have a taper block that I used when I was shooting ash. Same kind 3r sells..mighta got it from them.
It worked ok...at least it was something for a guide.
The biggest problem I had was my ryobi sander's table wasn't very steady. Spent more time finding ways to steady the table mount than anything else.
If you want the block I'll send it to you.
Maybe so Eric, I can see how it sure could bow.
I do mine on my edge sander and operate in the vertical not horizontal. I don't/can't use a block on my nock end so I have to take great care in checking my size as I approach my pencil lines. I think your set up would be better controled than mine.
A 6"X80" maybe overkill for wood arrows.
You can ruin a shaft in a hurry tho.
CTT
Thanks for the posts Westbrook. Now I'm definitely going to get a disc/ belt sander, that I've been thinking about getting anyway. Never thought about tapering shafts on the belt side, excellent!
Here is jig for rear tapers.
(http://i481.photobucket.com/albums/rr180/two4hooking/001_zps24ce7b1d.jpg)
Chuck the shaft up in a drill and spin it through angle iron with 1 inch sanding belts glued on the faces....
Still looking for a inexpensive disk sander for nock tapers.
Chuck, does the edge sander have a bed or table that you rest your stock on? I'd just drill & tap a hole to screw down a piece of angle iron up snug to the belt.
Eric
I have clamped a block to the table but it seem like accuracy is harder to maintain with a "fence" on this machine. My machine is a wood eating hog. I like the finer ability of the smaller belt.
CTT
Yea, an 80" sander would make a shaft vanish if your not carefull. LOL
Don't forget your hide and your knuckles!!!
Thats what I hear anyhow. :saywhat:
Crafty jig for rear tapers. I just finished the adjustable block type you use with a drill.
Regarding the point and nock taper jig, You can make a very simple one without anything but a belt/disc sander.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000059
I made one like Eric Krewsons but with a stop block. It was very easy and works great, I'd recommend grabbing a $1 3/8" dowel just to test the taper angle and get it tuned in. I made mine from scrap ply. Take that 3rivers! I'm only joking but, free always beats paying money. $35 can go to a nice set of shafts.
Good luck.
P.S. I think the stop block is really key, I'm just not steady enough to get a perfect taper without it. Cheers