I'm ordering new arrows, having trouble deciding on the right ones. Does anybody shoot these 1535s out of a 45lb bow or close to it?
30 inch arrow 175 grain tip, think it'll work?
I do.
I shoot 45 lbs@29" with it. Bow is near to center-cut and I use a 6 strands string.
Standard GT nock and insert.
Uncut shaft (30 inch)
100 grains fieldtip.
After tuning, I glued (construction glue) a little screw into the nock with a weight of 17 grains. This makes the shaft a little bit stiffer.
FOC: 9%
Total arrow weight: around the 405 grains meaning 9 GPP
They fly great.
1535's will be too weak with the setup you descibe. I shoot 3555's out of my 45# bows they are cut to 29.25 from inside of nock to the end of the shaft, I have a total of 195 grains up front. this is out of a recurve or cut near center longbow.
With that long of a draw and tip weight, you might be underspined. I would try and see if you can get one or two in the two different spines and test first before purchasing a dozen.
Yes, I use them on two of my bows. Here are the specs - Both set-ups use the same length arrows : 1535 shafts cut to 28.75", I use 3fletch and 4 fletch arrows as well as flu flu's-
Martin X-200 (Recurve cut to center.... I think), 43# @ 27.5", i use 145 gr field tips and 142 gr B/H's;
Martin L-100 (Mild R/D - is a Ragim LB made for Martin, +1/8 off center....I think thats the way you say it) 45# @27.5, I use 155 gr field tips and B/H's.
***I do not shoot off the shelf - I use a Bear rest trimmed down, and set up real low. I love the 600 spine, I was over spined for several months. Hope this helps.
I would agree in testing both shafts
Big Jim has a test kit set up and that would be a good way to go
I use GT1535 30" with 100 grain tip with my 37# bow. Your GT1535 30" with 175 grain tip probably too weak for your 45#.
What kind of bow? What's your draw length?
Yup, to weak. i shoot 1535's cut to 28" with a 125gr tip out of my Palmer Recurve 47lbs at my draw. I shoot 35/55's with 200grs up front out of the same bow.
QuoteOriginally posted by rnharris:
What kind of bow? What's your draw length?
X2
Your draw length is really important to know.
I shoot a 45# whip 28" draw.
I was shooting full length 500 spine beman bowhunters with a 175 grain tip. Shot great.
I have recently switched to a 300 grain tip on the same arrows..still shoots great..maybe better.
I have a feeling if you're drawing 28" and shooting a center cut bow the 175 grain tip will put you in that "gray" area between the two shafts.
Might be well worth your while to try the 15-35's (600 spine) and the 500 spine before you buy a doz.
If you draw less than 28" go with the 15-35's.
If you draw more than 28" go with the 500 spine.
Same experience here as most have mentioned. Around 45# with a 30" GT 1535 you will not be able to get away with 175 up front....too weak. Drop that to 100 or 125 grains and you're golden...problem is that's too light of an arrow for 45# IMO. Get the 3555 and load em up.
Take care,
Jason
Great, thanks for all the input. I didn't know Big Jims had test kits. I ordered one and will test them before buying a whole dozen, then I'll be sure.
Well, I really need to check my draw because originally it was 28 but I think I may be pulling 28.5 or 29 now - which might put the 1535s out. My predator recurve is 41 at 28, but if I'm drawing 29 then its 45. So again, I should check that to be sure. Best way to check is with a marked arrow? or is there a better method?
I don't know how other guys do it..
The easiest way I've found is to nock an arrow and have a buddy mark the arrow.
Then measure..maybe do some math to figure length to the deepest part of the grip..
easy as pie bud.
I shoot 1535's out of all of my bows, I use 100 gr. or 50 gr. inserts with 100 to 175 gr. tips, lI have also shot this set up with 50gr insert, 160 gr broad head with a 100gr glue on adapter, flew perfect.
My bows are from 38# to 54#, it's the 54# recurve I shot the above mentioned broad heads out of.
I'm with rnharris,
More info needed! Absent that, for everyone's help & their descriptions of what works for them, we're guessing.
If all alone..I have punched out a slightly snug fitting hole in a piece of cardboard and fit that over my arrow.
Then adjusted it so it just touched my knuckle "or whatever it hits first" at full draw.
Then did the math from there to figure nock to deepest part of grip.
alot of guys do the "nock to deepest part of grip" draw length....that's what I do.
Don't see much AMO draw length being talked about.
..adding 1.75"
I don't know what the cut is on the predator. If it is not cut past center, you should be fine with the 1535's and 175 or at least very close. The longer your draw, the less likely they will work.
Now that the 3555's are available out to 32"s, you will be more likely to make them work also.
thanks, bigjim
Wow I shoot 45lbs and just tonight shot a 3555 with aluminum insert, 200gr tip and 30" shaft. I draw 29.75" and they showed a bit weak. I need a longer shaft, so I shoot 400 spine with 200gr tip and 75gr brass insert beman mfx. This is my experience with several bows I own.
I've had great success shooting GT 1535s. Shooting a Bob Lee 44# and 47#. With the 44# shooting full length with 125g up front. With the 47# shoot full length with 145g up front. Draw is 27.5". Arrows fly great. Just recently bare shafted with the 47# bow. Arrows were dead on from 10 & 15 yards.
Thanks for the cardboard method zradix, it was helpful. It also helped me realize I need to focus on being more consistent with my draw length, because sometimes I'm getting 28.5 and sometimes 28, depending on the arch of my bow arm and posture.
I got the test kit and am going to have to think it over for a while - because honestly they seem to both work. I figure I'm getting 43# at the most, and the predator is cut 1/8 past center I believe.
I can pretty much hit my 5 inch target at 20 yards with both the 1535s 30 inch with 175 grain tip and the 3555s 32 inch with 145 grain tip.
Maybe there's something more to the perfect arrow flight that I haven't seen yet. 1535s shoot flatter, which I like, but are also louder (lighter weight)
If I can hit it the target and the bareshaft isn't going all over the place, that means its more or less tuned, right?
Thanks again for all your input.
If you're hitting 5" at 20yds you're doing pretty good! :thumbsup:
Bareshafting is one good tool for tuning.
After you fletch a couple try paper tuning the different spines.
You might learn a little more about your flight and be able to make a better informed decision of what to do next...
you can try them, but a 29" draw shooting fulll length shafts with that much point weight will probably be too weak. I'd go with 35/55's, and if you have to add a little more point weight. Use the brass inserts ,or .243 bullet epoxied behind the inserts, or the GT weights that can be added. Most likely a 100 grain brass insert, plus the 125 gr point should be about right.
wooden clothes pin to measure draw. clip it on the arrow and draw, repeat several time to get a accurate measurement
cool idea!
Has anyone heard of tuning the bareshaft to slightly weak because fletching will slightly stiffen the shaft? I just read that for the first time somewhere.
Its a common thing.
Depending on the bow you will be fine. Carbon recovers from paradox way faster than other arrow material and 99% of the people out there could get away with much weaker spined carbon and heavier points than they think. I myself am shooting a new mild R/D longbow that is 55#s at my draw and I am shooting a .600 spine carbon with 175 grain point weight cut to 29.5"s(I draw 28.5"s) and I am getting perfect flight. Throw most of what you have heard or read about carbons out the window and start experimenting with lighter spines and heavier heads and you will be amazed at what you will find. My go to bows are a RER Arroyo that is 54#s at my 28.5" draw and a Belcher riser with Border Hex-5 limbs and same weight and draw as the RER and I shoot 35/55s cut to 29.5"s with 190 grains up front and the flight is flawless. Try for yourself and see, most folks will be pleasantly surprised. Shawn