I was surprised to find out that some people still prefer alum's to carbon. I am curious why? I have not used them for years and just recently took a couple old alum's out and shot them. Thought about trying them again, but I thought I had good reasons to move away from them in the past. Easy to bend, tough to know when bent, heavy.....
Talk me into trying them again
I have some I still shoot. A lot easier to get tuned with out a lot of point weight tinkering while still giving you good arrow weight. A lot more accurately spined in many cases also. Aluminum just offer such a wide range of spines and are straight so long as you take care of them that they are hard to dump.
I do.
Easier to tune with out all sorts a inserts or tube.
You can get spine exactly how you need and with GPI to match. Easier to make the right with the piont you want. Also less expensive...
Whats more, they are much more durable. I shoot footed 2117.
I missed a rabbit 'on the hop' the other day. My arrow center punched a large piece of granite. Blew 3 feathers and the nock clean off. The shafts is no worse for wear. I'v re-refletced that shaft 5 or 6 times.
I still shoot alloys when it counts, and when doesn't it. People can say all they want about carbons dynamic spine, the fact is most archers can't get the spine they need in that material. I believe this to be the root of the really heavy arrow trend today.
Ive shot aluminum until recently. I think im one of the only ones that when i switched to carbon all i did was move up 25 grains in point. And i shoot bullet holes.
Since 1976 but have a few Wal-mart carbons also.They fly good and kill animals if I do my part.Kip
I have a dozen 2219 with half setup with Snuffer 160s on them that I still use for turkey some and taking as back up arrows on a hog hunt this week...but prefer woodies.
I shoot 1916's out of my 45# Bears Paw T.D. I use Zwickey No Mercy heads. The last two bucks I've killed I got complete pass thru. They shot right where I'm looking.
I use alluminum. I found that they are easier to tune than carbons are; and all I need is some hot melt and an alluminum tube cutter to tune them. They are pretty tough, and are a lot cheaper than carbons as well. Like others have said they make it a lot easier to achieve a heavy weighted arrow without adding tubes or a bunch of point weight.
I do. I shoot 2018's. A great shaft. Don't want the hassle of tuning carbons. That doesn't mean I'll never switch to them, but, I have a room full of aluminums to go through first !
I shoot both, but I twisted my back shoveling snow. The aluminum's are one heck of a lot easier to pull out of a foam target when your back is hurting.
And I still have a fond spot in heart for 2117's. Do everything I've ever asked them to do and as someone posted above, they are often quite a bit cheaper. So I bend one once in a while. I don't cry as loudly when I lose one.
I shoot aluminum mainly because of the wide varity of spines out there and also price point. Most of my go to bows shoot very well with 2018 shaft and 150gr up front and produce an arrow in the 550 range at my arrow length. I don't have to mess with tubes and heavy inserts. A 2018 has a pretty thick wall and seem to hold up well. I have switched back and forth between wood and aluminum for almost 50 years and played with carbon a little but just find too much hassel tuning them.
Yup 2016's and 2018's great shafts. Simple,easy,cheaper. Only bent or broke a few in many years of shooting.
I do have some carbons,quess I had to check them out but mostly shoot alums.
Mike,I still shoot 2018's. Not exclusively,but I love how versatile they are. Plenty of GPI,and the spine which is a .487 I think,just lends itself to all my bows in the 48-51 lb range. They are not as tough as carbon,but are alot more forgiving in flight for me. Alot of times with carbons if they are'nt just right...I get a bit of "minnowing" to the target. And I have had a bow that is 48 lbs shoot a .500 spined carbon well,and one that is 50 lbs send it all kinds of crazy downrange. I have seen this vise-versa as well. The 2018's just cover it all. rat'
I use aluminum a LOT! Very straight, easily re-fletched, and as said many available sizes/spines. Easy to pull from common foam style targets.
Wood for personal serious shooting, aluminum for just about everything else. As said above, carbon is just too difficult to tune, dangerous if damaged and not detected.
Arrows are "ammunition" and to a certain degree expendable.
Arne
some of my bows really prefer them,thay shoot great and get heavier weights with them.
I still shoot them now and again.....they just work well!
I use aluminums a lot. I find them easy to tune and I like the price. Plenty of used ones are usually available. I have a straightener to help with bent ones, if they aren't too bad.
I just fletched up about 16 last night, in fact, for my new Java Man long bow. I footed them with another piece of aluminum arrow and some two part epoxy.
I still use both but am warming up to carbons I killed 2 deer with carbons this year. I use wood, aluminum and carbon. Aluminum are def easy to tune. My Black Widow loves 2020's they tame the racket it likes to make. That said so will heavy carbons and woodies. Bottom line is they all work and the critters I shoot don't give a rip what I shoot em with.
Have a bunch of game getters I don't seem to be able to kill - less finicky than carbon & shoot consistently - would probably get more if I could get them a little lighter as I don't shoot much over 40# -M
Sure wish Easton would bring back Autumn Orange alum, loved the look of those.
I shoot 2317's a lot because I have them...easy on the bow because of the weight...too stiff with most of my bows
I still use 1916's out of my 50# bows. They fly true and easy to get to weight. But, they are a little more fragile on bending than carbons of course.
I have some carbons but just can't get them weighted enough for me. One of my agenda items for 2013 is to get some carbons up to weight and shooting well.
Just was out shooting my Zipper ILF, 2016's, 125 up front and they flew like darts....easy to pull also!
I still shoot aluminum on some of my bows.I shoot aluminum on my Hill,fly great and like Autumn Orange.I shoot a 2312 X7 on my Morrison metal riser ILF.
27"bop 1918s fly perfect out of most of my bows, 2018s are perefect for the heavier bows. With the carbon I could get them to fly that good for just one weight at a time and I had to leave them too long. the Alaskans however, work in all of my heavier bows about the same as the 2018s, but the price tag makes it no fun to use them.
Been shooting 2216's since '95.
That is all I shoot. 2117, 2018 and 2219,s. They are tough and easy to straighten once you get the hang of it.
I shoot aluminum and wood. I have some AD trad lites made up but I'm not really a carbon guy.
I don't always shoot aluminum arrows, but when I do I shoot 2214s. The Jack Howard "go to" shaft. All my Hill bows like them as does my Massie Longhorns. :thumbsup:
Danny
2219's with a 175 grain BH, flies great out of all my recurves. One arrow for 6 bows,ranging in weight fro 62# to 72#. Carbons are nice, but, they cost a lot more.
I really prefer wood but with aluminum I think I shoot better. They're easy to tune, cheaper, consistent.
Aluminum is all I shoot also. Currently shooting 2016's from my #50 bow and 1916's from a #45`er. Love XX75 shafts!
I shoot alum mostly but I do have 1/2 doz 5575 that fly ok but seem to be more picky of my form. I have down CX 90s on the way to try out.
I do a lot. XX75s in 2016s and 1916s. And for all the reasons others have posted.....durable, easy to tune, great for fletching and such, but high on the list is because you get all that at lower prices than carbons.
Aluminum and wood. 2016 and 2018 are great. Less expensive than carbon and work really well. I do prefer wood though. Fun to make and shoot.
I love the smell of aluminum shavings. Oh, wait, never mind...
I too love aluminum for all of the above reasons. I shoot 'em all but keep rotating back to my 2016 and 2018s. Man they just work so good and are easier to work than carbon. Simple tube cutter and hot melt and I'm good to go. Don't need to worry about foc, efoc, weight tubes, etc. etc.
Woods and Aluminums. I preferr xx78s though . I'm higher tech than these other guys LOL. I think the xx78 Legacys are the best trad arrow out there. Plus, I too love the smell of aluminum shavings. LOL
God bless you all, Steve
You guys need to be careful sniffing too much of those aluminum shavings....can be habit forming and mess with your brain. :bigsmyl:
1816's are my go to shaft. work great in both my recurves and longbows in the 40-50# range. Getting ready to order doz 1816 easton "Tribute" shafts. Give them a try.
Depends on what flys straitest out of the bow I'm shooting. I just received a Tolke Curlew and was tuning it for arrow flight, the arrow that works best is a 2018, so 2018 it is.
Shoot what works.
Flinging 2117 Legacy shafts from my recurve and cedar woodies from my longbow.
As mentioned before, they're cheaper and easier to tune; I can cut small pieces at a time with just a small pipe cutter, not a high speed arrow saw.
I just picked up 11 2016 Autumn Orange xx75's at the local second hand store. Asked the person at the checkout how much, the said $11, so I offered $9 and they accepted. They were fletched with 5" parabolic, complete with 125grain points. I'm shooting them on an NFAA league from a 47# longbow. They are a little stiff, but are full length shafts, and seem to fly good.
I still shoot the 2117 shaft, to me it is the 30-06 of the arrows, just seems to be the right arrow for so much of what I do. Aluminum is straight...aluminun is consistent in weight...aluminum is easy to work with, and it is also what I grew up shooting. They just seem to fly good (as long as properly spined). Love 'em
i will only shoot aluminum
Legacy for me. Aluminum for all the reasons abundantly given already. Plus "inertia"-the psychologial kind is part of my consevative profile. Hell,if Microflights were readily available I would probably be shooting them.
A couple of weeks ago, I received my first aluminum arrows to try. I've shot carbon since I started, but kept hearing good things about aluminum. I also really wanted an arrow I could use 125 gr. tips with.
30" XX75 2018's are shooting beautifully from my K-Mag.
Plan to try these with a couple of other bows now.
Ken
That's all I shoot, 1916's and 2016's great arrows.
aluminums are all I shoot, my recurves love them. :thumbsup:
No carbons here. These guys pretty much covered it. I love my 2018's and 2117's depending on which bow I am shooting. Also have a set of woodies Snag made that shoot great too.
I just ordered 1/2 doz XX75 Camo Hunter 1816's for my #45 recurve. As others have said, aluminum is just so easy to tune, without all the tube weights, etc, etc. And they fly straight and true.
I use a bunch of aluminums for all of the reasons already stated above. Mainly 1916s, 2016s and 2018s.
I shoot both at the same time-carbon on the inside and aluminum on the outside--FMJ's.
I shoot Aluminums most days...save my carbons and woodies for hunting....I like the legacy swagged tips - if I'm hitting nocks I'm only breaking nocks...
><>>
glenn
These are some Easton Eagle aluminums I just made up. Maybe for a Valentine's Day stump shoot??? Nothing says love like a pretty pink arrow!
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1360799569.JPG) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1360799569.JPG)
1918 Autumn Orange shafts for me :thumbsup: They work out of all my bows with very little tuning.
A strong heavy arrow and I find that when it happens easy to straighten. :thumbsup:
WOW - sounds like i need to give this a try. I really did not think all you guys shot alum's. almost stunned.
All my bows are between 45 and 52# at my 30" draw. Mostly longbows. What shaft should i be using 2117, 2213, or???
Thanks
Mike
Autumn Oranges, Gamegetters and all the other xx75s are the same arrow shafting. All xx75 aluminum. Gamegetters are a great deal for a hunting arrow. Straightness is not as stringent on gamegetters but they are withing .006 if I remember correctly. Usually they are better than that but the variance may be that much. All the rest are plus or minus .oo3. Most of the xx78s are well within that. Plus they just do notbend. They are brittle however an may blow an end off if you nail a rock.
God bless you all, Steve
I shoot 2117's out of all of my bows. Have for years. 2117 is probably the most versatile arrow made.
John
QuoteOriginally posted by pamike:
WOW - sounds like i need to give this a try. I really did not think all you guys shot alum's. almost stunned.
All my bows are between 45 and 52# at my 30" draw. Mostly longbows. What shaft should i be using 2117, 2213, or???
Thanks
Mike
Mike,
For those draw weights, I would start with a 2016 or 2018, maybe even a 2114. Some variables go into the mix...do you shoot off the shelf? Is your riser cut to center?, etc. Several factors determine what spine will "probably" shoot best from your bow.
My Mohawk and Hill bows have always loved 2018-and 2016 GG. When I shot a few more pounds I loved 2020 and 2117 GG. I probably have killed more stuff with a 2018 than any other arrow.RC
I shoot 2016s legacy and black xx75 from my Predator Hunter and agree with all comments above. Going to foot a few with 1-3/4 in 2113 to make them a little more stump proof.
Simpler and cheaper
2117s from my Pronghorn, 2016s. 2018s, and 2020s from recurves. Easy to tune, and seem to quiet my bows better than carbons. Easier to get a heavier arrow. I get a set of carbons out once and awhile for fun, but stick with aluminums. I am about ready to foray into the woods, though.
I use them with some bows. I have had 3 A&H ACS CX's over the years, one currently. Every one of them shot the best with 2016's.
Mike, I'd try 2018's. If they're a bit stiff 2016's will work. 2117's are larger dia. and thinner walled. The 16's and 18's are smaller dia and thicker walled. Tough shafts.
I started shooting aluminums over the summer. I started shopping for new wood shafts and found you can buy XX75 shafts for $29/doz. just do a search for Easton Blues or Jazz. I have to say they have been great. Just easy, straight, consistent, easy to tune, and cheap.
Easton Legacy aluminums is all that I shoot (1916's out of my 45 lb. longbows). As mentioned in previous posts, very easy to tune and work with to test various configurations. When I switched to traditional archery in 2006 (from compound & carbons), it only seemed natural for me to shoot what I shot years before. About the only time that I have to replace an arrow, is because I've lost it.
1916, 2016, 2018, 2114, 2014...depends on the the bow. I went back to aluminums a few years ago
QuoteOriginally posted by DarrinG:
QuoteOriginally posted by pamike:
WOW - sounds like i need to give this a try. I really did not think all you guys shot alum's. almost stunned.
All my bows are between 45 and 52# at my 30" draw. Mostly longbows. What shaft should i be using 2117, 2213, or???
Thanks
Mike
Mike,
For those draw weights, I would start with a 2016 or 2018, maybe even a 2114. Some variables go into the mix...do you shoot off the shelf? Is your riser cut to center?, etc. Several factors determine what spine will "probably" shoot best from your bow. [/b]
Darrin is right on. My 45# @ 28 Spirit lb loves 2018 shafts. My draw is 31". I use 2117 shafts out of my Widow lb which is 58# @ 28, again drawing to 31 inches.
I would give 2016 or the 2018s a try. I prefer the 2018 shaft if it will shoot for you.
I shoot them a lot, 1918s, 2016s, 2018s, & 2020s. Over the years I have kind of figured out what will work with my shooting style at various draw weights. I can normally be tuned in 10 minutes.
I do shoot woodies out of my longbow and I hunted with carbons the last couple of years, but I am wondering if all the tinkering is worth it.
D.P.
I shoot both Aluminum and Wood . WOOD mostly but ALWAYS have a set of Aluminum's for each bow . Advantages to both . EG: Last year at ETAR When the targets were the ones that just held Carbons and woods like glue I went to the Aluminum's in my Quiver they came out EASY !!!.
I can tune woods and Aluminum's virtually identical to each other . I have 1916s,2013s,2016s,2018s,2020s,2117s,2219s
Been shooting aluminum since the sixties and most of that time was spent with 2219's. Now that I'm older and have dropped bow weight I'm using 2216's.
Carbons are nice and I have a bunch... good thing cause they don't make the ones I like anymore. I'm not sure there is a tougher shaft out there.
I've used hundreds of wood shafts too but getting matching sets has been a problem at times over the years... Surewood Douglas Firs have fixed that.
Bottom line is that a 2219 is a 2219 and has been since I started shooting them. It's the same for the 2216 or any other Easton aluminum.
Don't think there is an advantage to shooting the EXACT same arrow for years? Think again!!
All my bows are set to shoot 2219 with 11/32 nocks and double served strings if too skinny. The 32 inch arrows are 4x5inch fletched, and finished with 250 gr up front. They may not be the fastest, but fly well out of a wide range of bows from 62 to 75 pounds. Mike
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff289/MittenM/hero/11-26-2007-07-1.jpg)
Mike,
Is that your design for a recurve? very nice and has very unique look.
I never had any need to drink the carbon koolaid.........With over 25 dozen shafts and arrows in about every size from 1916 to 2315s its easy to have an arrow flying great in about 15 minutes of getting a new bow. I havent needed to bare shaft an arrow in about ten years. Just put a point on one end, nock and feathers on the other and they work. Never had any durability problems as I tend to loose more than I ever break/bend.
duncan - yes that is a bow I made. The center riser wood was Osage but it darkened to almost the same degree as the Pau Ferro, so it lost a lot of contrast. Ha!
Me Too, 1918's 2018's & 2020's. And no, not easy to bend.
I want to get some XX75's for a new bow I have on order. It's a Dave Johnson Hill style LB. it is to be 40# @ 27". My arrows will be 29.5" BOP. What shaft size do y'all recommend?
Brazos not the best at this but I would think assuming your draw is 27" 1916's w/ 150 tip. It should put you about 478gr.
I shoot 2117's and these are my preferred material for arrows. I can straighten out most bent arrows, If you shoot wood you have to learn to straighten them or you will be out of the game in no time. I use the same method for both types, so the "bend easy thing is just and excuse" it's not a reality until you get into the small diameters 19's and under. I do use wood at some of the 3-D Shoots for the trad-class, so I experience with them also, as well as carbon.Carbon is good except you have to go with a stiff spine so you can load the point heavy to get the total weight up, or some other method to get the weight up so you don't kill your bow and I find it to be much trouble.Aluminum you get weight and perfect spine all at the same time.The best there is.
Thanks lilbobby. I was thinking 1916 or possibly 1816's. looking for a 125-145 point. This bow will be more for target work.
2018 for my target bow and 2020 for my hunting bow.
I get the spine and weight i need with out shooting a super heavy head. I still shoot a lot of selfnocked wood arrows.
Dont really need carbons but once in a while i will shoot cx 150s from my target bow
My recurves are 54-55 @ 28 with a 27 draw length what shaft could I use with 175 vpa head 28-29inch arrow?
2018's for now
But If I can get a new bow soon I'll be shooting wood
any downsides to the larger diameter shafts. larger diamter - thinner walls seems to have the specs i am looking for but will be pretty fat - 2213, 2312 look perfect for me.
thoughts?
One thing I didn't see mentioned that is important to us long draw guys is that there are aluminums available in much greater lengths than carbons.
QuoteMike,
For those draw weights, I would start with a 2016 or 2018, maybe even a 2114. Some variables go into the mix...do you shoot off the shelf? Is your riser cut to center?, etc. Several factors determine what spine will "probably" shoot best from your bow. [/qb]
Darrin is right on. My 45# @ 28 Spirit lb loves 2018 shafts. My draw is 31". I use 2117 shafts out of my Widow lb which is 58# @ 28, again drawing to 31 inches.
I would give 2016 or the 2018s a try. I prefer the 2018 shaft if it will shoot for you. [/QB][/QUOTE]
I'm the same as these two. At my draw length, I shoot 46 or 47# on my longbow. It's cut to center and I shoot 2016s mostly. Got 2018s with the right point and they fly beautifully straight.
So 1916s from my target bow and 2016/2018s from my hunting longbow.
Well...
After starting out with carbons, the only reason I would switch to aluminum arrows is that they are soooooooo quiet when drawn back. Carbons can be a little loud over the rest at times. I like a heavy point and a light shaft so aluminums are pretty much out for me.
I would like to order some 2219s. Would I be in the ball park with a 61@31DL and 175 point?
Thanks
Eric
I know it has been said a lot that aluminums big downside is that they can get bent. When's the last time you actually bent one? I have been shooting the same 3-4 aluminum arrows since I made them over the summer and they are still going strong. The rest of the dozen are still sitting there. Growing up shooting aluminum as a kid I would bend one on occasion but it is was pretty rare. I will say my shooting is a target butt or hunting. I do not really do any stumping as there isn't a place around here for me to do so. If I did, I think I would just foot my aluminum arrows. The fact you can get a dozen Easton Blues or Jazz for cheaper than wood or carbon, if you do bend one now and again you still probably come out ahead. I tend to loose more arrows than I break. I would rather loose a cheaper arrow.
I keep trying to leave them behind saying I'm just going to shoot Surewoods, then I have to try and refletch or replace a nock on the wood. Or something along those lines. Carbon just doesn't do it for me.
I shot 2114 out of a 46# widow and 2016 out of a 44#whisperstyck 150gr.175gr. tip shoot great!
Question guys
Can you still buy 2114s ???
If not what would be a comparable spine aluminum withou getting real heavy???
QuoteOriginally posted by Gator1:
Question guys
Can you still buy 2114s ???
** I believe so. Search "2114 Easton" and you'll get some responses. **
If not what would be a comparable spine aluminum withou getting real heavy???
2016 (heavier) or 2212 (lighter)
Shaft Spine Shaft Wt@29" GPI
2016 0.531 306 ****10.55
2018 0.464 356 ****12.28
2020 0.426 391 ****13.48
2112 0.590 244 ****8.41
2113 0.540 270 ****9.31
2114 0.510 286 ****9.86
2115 0.461 312 ****10.76
2117 0.400 349 ****12.03
2212 0.505 256 ****8.83
shootingthestickbow.com/ArrowGuide.html
Thank you I appreciate it
I'm going to try some out
Thank you I appreciate it
I'm going to try some out
1916's, 2016's, 2114's and 2018's. I love aluminium
arrows. I have been shooting them for almost 40 yrs. Man, I am getting old.
I'm gonna have to get a variety I'm going all in
:smileystooges: :smileystooges:
some 2114 29" arrows in the classifieds now....
I like 1916, 2016, and 2117s.
They just seem to tune easier for me. I'm currently experimenting with carbon (again), but I keep going back to my 2219s. They seem more accurate and forgiving with my Widow.
Herdbull,
Who makes your arrows? They are beautious!
I just re-kindled my affair w/ 2219's. Seems my 63lbs Habu tunes extremely well w/ a 125gr point on a 2219. Never would've thought this bow would need such a heavy spine shaft.
I do.
Easier for me to set up on my own than wood, easier to get the right spine and most importantly....
easiest to find with my metal detector when I miss and bury them in the grass. :)
I use all four of the 20/64" aluminums, covers spines from .600(2013) to .400(2020). I only need to change point weight to shoot any of them off any of my bows. Because they are all the same diameter , I don't have to adjust my nock point. My bows range from low 40's to mid 50's.
Aluminums are my "go to" shafts. I shoot wood when REQUIRED and aluminum the rest of the time. I strip and rebuild by arrows every year or two (including straightening if necessary) and have "new" arrows every year or two. A few of my shafts are over 20 years old and still look and fly like new. I am able to straighten bent arrows to less than +/- .005, some times as low as .002. That's as straight as you can buy new ones. With a spinner it's EASY to see if they are straight and they are MUCH easier to strip than carbon or wood. Maybe I'm just cheap, but they work great for me.
I'm shooting them now and I'm going to need to get some more. I think I can go 2016 or 2018 to cover all 3 bows and just play with point weight.
I went to the Easton shaft selector and they are recommending a 400 spine alum for a 45# bow 150 grain tip at 31" arrow. I would have thought it would be 500.
I've shot carbon from day one. 600s were always a little week and 500s a little to stiff. So I had to play with point and insert weight to get them to fly. After reading Byron Ferguson's book on tuning I ordered up some Aluminum shafts. I was able to tune 1916, 2013 and 2016 to my bow all with the same point weight. I think I'll try the 1916 over the summer and see how they workout.
ive never left aluminums, other than some woodies, thats all i shoot, i have never had a reason to follow the carbon craze. you mentioned they were easy to bend, ive never experienced that but shoot fairly thick walled shafts 2216,2018, 2020 etc.. and you mentioned heavy.. heck yea another plus , you can have a 600 gr arrow with out adding a bunch of weights and such,but weight can be added if a really heavy arrow is desired. and to me they tune alot easier than what i see folks going through with thier carbons.
benifits to me are that they are tough, heavy,compared to carbon and have a wide range of spine weights, and are easy to work with,
I guess I am a dinosaur; I "still" shoot Al some of the time. Want to pick up some wooden arrows, though.
I'm a 2018 guy.
I started out with aluminums in the 70's. Since then I have played with carbon and have shot wood for many, many years. Now that I have dropped in bow weight, I find that aluminum gives me the spine I need and the weight I want with ease. Much easier to tune and work on at home than carbon. A tube cutter and hot melt glue and you can fine tune them with ease. Add to this that they are less expensive than carbon AND good wood shafts (Easton Tribute shafts less than $35 a dozen). So what's not to like? :thumbsup:
2020's get about the same weight as my woodies, just have trouble getting carbons heavy enough for my 63-67# bows. Primary arrows are tapered Cedar, Ash and Maple, but 2020 and 2315 get to play with the piggies when I don't want to possibly break arrows on hogs. Still have a few 2215. Pass throughs are the way to go though.
:thumbsup:
Just pulled one out of the ham of some ham. Still working on getting it back to shootable.
Makes me want to break out my old 2016's again.
I like my 2016 Legacy's....
Cut at 29" with 125 up front....
When I hunt I just take off the Field tip and put on a Broadhead of same weight and go.
My bow also likes the Platinum 2213....2213's are the same size as 11/32 wood arrow....
Oh, my bow is HHA Big 5 49 @ 29"
I also have never lost the love of aluminumn shafts. Over the years have dropped in spine down to 1916,1918 ,2016 and 2018 have taken advantage of those who gave them up an have come across some very good deals love those 1918 shafts strong and heavy both and shoot great out of my light bows.
Have all the autumn orange shafts to last for tha rest of my shooting days that I can handle.
Have also found that a bent shaft that is few and far between can be straightened quite easily with the right equipment!! :archer2:
I shoot 'em all. Have some bows that shoot carbons, some that shoot wood and just cut and fletched a dozen and a half 2016's for a bow I am currently shooting. Aluminum seems to have some of the best attributes of all of them. Heavier then most carbons without having to load up the front, straighter then wood and penetrate well with the slick finish. Only downside I have found is when you miss they can make a hell of a racket if they hit rocks or go bouncing among trees!
I love em.
My Bob Lee cut to center 46# @28 I draw 27.25 what aluminum would work good with 145 gr point?
QuoteOriginally posted by Stone Knife:
My Bob Lee cut to center 46# @28 I draw 27.25 what aluminum would work good with 145 gr point?
I shoot 1916's with a similar weight longbow. Cut to center may be able to shoot 2016's.
stone knife, 2014 x7s cut to 28.5 or 29 should be about right on........
You guys are killing me. Thinking of going back to aluminum. Here's my current set up, cut to center longbow.(Kanati) 56"45#@26". Gold tip 35/55 cut at 27",100 grain brass insert with 150 Magnus stingers. Three 5" feathers and Gold tip standard nocks. I will not change head weight and won't go longer with the arrow so what aluminum (legacy's) would I need?
QuoteOriginally posted by BUCKY:
You guys are killing me. Thinking of going back to aluminum. Here's my current set up, cut to center longbow.(Kanati) 56"45#@26". Gold tip 35/55 cut at 27",100 grain brass insert with 150 Magnus stingers. Three 5" feathers and Gold tip standard nocks. I will not change head weight and won't go longer with the arrow so what aluminum (legacy's) would I need?
1916
What is the spine weight of 2216 and 2217, Legacys? :thumbsup:
2117= .400
2216= .375
Anybody ever use the threaded brass inserts(100 grain) in their aluminum shafts?
what poundage range does .375 equate to for a 28-29" arrow? Also are 2217 sticker? :thumbsup:
2216= 84.3lbs. Never heard of a 2217. Is it a Dougherty(sp) shaft?
i always loved alums. i went from woods to srt-x eastons back in 1961 - they were the cat's meow for arrow shafting, even though they'd bend and dent if ya looked at 'em too hard. then on to the much better xx75's, and finally those killer x7's. back then, there was zero competition with easton shafts, and with very good reason.
however, even the best of alum shafts aren't as durable as most any carbon shafting. for me, now carbons are the cat's meow. but i still love building woodies. ;)
QuoteOriginally posted by Prairie Drifter:
Never heard of a 2217. Is it a Dougherty(sp) shaft?
Yes it was.
anyone remember the JDA serpents that easton had out for a short time?? those were some pretty cool looking shafts.
QuoteOriginally posted by Prairie Drifter:
2216= 84.3lbs. Never heard of a 2217. Is it a Dougherty(sp) shaft?
It is on the Legacy shaft list on the Easton website. I'm guessing 2215 is a bit lighter, they shoot well from 63# MOAB with 160 grain points.
:thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by Wudstix:
QuoteOriginally posted by Prairie Drifter:
2216= 84.3lbs. Never heard of a 2217. Is it a Dougherty(sp) shaft?
It is on the Legacy shaft list on the Easton website. I'm guessing 2215 is a bit lighter, they shoot well from 63# MOAB with 160 grain points.
:thumbsup: [/b]
Huh, either it's new or a misprint. Can't find any dealers that have it listed ......
I just went to the Legacy sight and they do list them. Don't know if it is a misprint or new for 2014??? My guess is a misprint.
http://www.eastonhunting.com/products/arrows/legacy
So what's the spine of a 2217?
QuoteOriginally posted by jkm97:
So what's the spine of a 2217?
Just found it listed in an old chart I have. Spines out at 89 lbs.
Thanks, the website is very hard for me to get to. Keep going in circles. What are 2020's
2020's spine 74 lbs.
Thanks, Mike that follows. My tapered cedar, Ash and maple are spined mid 70's. Hope they will push the Grizzly Instinct heads I just got.
:thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by pete p:
anyone remember the JDA serpents that easton had out for a short time?? those were some pretty cool looking shafts.
I still have 3 2117 of those,I wish I bought all the production,best loooking shaft ever made IMHO.
Just pulled out and fletched two dozen Autumn Orange
1916's I had out away thanks to this post! I bet they will shoot as good as any carbon!
I only began shooting in the fall of last year, but I had a bad experience already with a carbon arrow splintering and one of the splinters became lodged deep in my hand for a time. After that I switched to aluminum and haven't looked back.