Ok I am needing to get some more arrow sealer and start building my own again. I have used gasket laquer and was not very happy with how it sometimes cracked. So what do you guys use and like? Raptor archery's sealer, bohning products, or others?
Chris... I like Minwax polyurethane, And i've tried about everything. Remember, wood arrows are after all...wood. And any wood product can be used on them (stain, sealer)- meaning the stuff that you decide to use doesn't necessarily have to come out of an archery catalog. The minwax is wipe-on, and once dry is tough as nails and i haven't found "target burn" to be a problem. I use fletching tape and have had no compatibility issues.
Dendy how many coats do you apply?
I like minwax too. I usually end up with 4-coats: 2, cresting and two more.
Hard to beat good ol' minwax polyurethane, not the water based stuff. Dipped alot with the MW Hellmsman spare urethane too and that worked great too.
I like to dip if just for the nice clean even finish. I delute the poly to about 60/40 poly/mineral spirits and give it about 4-5 thin coats.
I'm using ProFin now but unles you can buy it localy its not worth the shipping charges.
Eric
I have switched from Gasket Lacquer to the previously mentioned wipe-on Minwax Poly. 4 coats works well and if you are shooting into ratty targets and do get some "target burn" you only need to lightly scuff the area with 0000 steel wool, clean and wipe on more Minwax. It only adds about 5 grains weight to the full shaft by the way
Chris, the best stuff I have found is Kinsser ultimate polyurethane. It is a water based poly. Stuff is tough as nails and fletching tape sticks well to it.I use 4 to 6 brushed on coats. Drys in two hours. Best stuff Iv found by far.Wears like Iron.
Oh yea, I find it beats wipe on poly by a long shot as far as wear gos.If you can't find the Kinsser, go with the Wipe on Min wax.IMHO
I too use minwax poly/4 coats.
QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisM:
Dendy how many coats do you apply?
It depends, I guess. Normally I'll do three to four coats. I use very fine steel wool in between coats, then wipe away dust w/ a soft cloth. ***very important** do not get in a big hurry, let the poly dry completely on every coat.
I forgot to mention that I apply the Minwax with a foam brush. I always get a nice finish. Oh, and I too steel wool between coats.
Would that be Zinsser instead of Kinsser?
what do you guys suggest for carbon sealing after dipping and cresting
This is by far the best finish I've used. Cheap and easy also.
Tom Kiessling's process for making wooden arrows using the epoxy/acetone finish.
1) First thing I do is stain shafts. I usually use aniline dyes from Gray Ghost Archery, but any stain will usually work. I only stain to where the stain and crown will meet.
2) After stain dries, using 0000 steelwool to remove any raised grain,then stain again if necessary to achieve desired color.
3) If I don't have any epoxy formula made up, I use the following procedure for that.
*I purchase Devcon 2-ton epoxy and a can of acetone from Wal-Mart in the paint section. I use a 4 ounce jar (baby food or mason jelly jar) to squirt the entire contents of epoxy in to. I then completely mix the 2 epoxy parts until clear. I then add 1 ounce of acetone (1/2 jar) and stir until the epoxy appears to have
dissolved and looks only like acetone remains. I then fill the jar with acetone and stir again for a few seconds.*
4) Applied one coat of epoxy as described next.
*Always wear chemical resistant gloves, I use the blue Nitrate cloves that the tools trucks (Snap-On, Mac) sell to local automotive and
diesel garage mechanics. I use small cotton rags from t-shirts. Hold arrow at nock or point end, make one long continuous swipe from end to end. Then rotate shaft 180 degrees and do it again. (Do not attempt to double wipe on same side, the rag will stick to the first coat).
5) After epoxy dries, check for raised grain. Remove if needed.
6) Apply a second coat of epoxy.
7) I will mark the shafts for my crown. I use 2 inch masking tape at the crown line. I then spray the crowns on, (I usually use Krylon enamels, and usually 2 coats will be enough). **If you are going to use fluorescent colors, always spray a basecoat of white first.**
8) After crown dries, apply cresting lines (Testors model paints work great).
9) After crown and cresting are COMPLETELY dry, spray or brush the crown and crestings with a thin coat of Min Wax Water Based Polyacyrlic (blue can). I prefer to brush mine on while shaft is in my crester. (I use an Arrow Specialties crester).
10) After poly dries, apply second coat.
11) After letting poly dry an hour, apply first coat of epoxy over entire shaft. Make sure to check wiping rag for paint residue after first arrow to insure that acetone is not attacking cresting and crown. If paint is being attacked, crest the arrow if needed, and give another coat of poly over all arrows. Some paint will show up from the nock end where there wasn't any epoxy.
12) If all is ok, I will usually put on 5 to 7 coats of epoxy, make sure to smooth out finish very lightly with 0000 steel wool between all coats.
13) I then set nocks using Duco cement, and mount feathers with either Bohning Fletch Tape or regular super glues (not the gel stuff). I prefer the tape. This makes for easy feather repair if needed. Make sure to remove any excess epoxy from the nock taper first, the cement will stick better. I do this with the small blade of my pocket knife.
Stringstretcher, Yes, my mistake,it is Zinsser and I also use a foam brush and fine steel wool between coats.
Minwax Polyurethane, 4 coats hand rubbed in, lightly sanding between coats. On the nock end where I'll dip, 3 coats of Bohning Super Coat to seal, again, light sanding between coats.
I always use minwax polyurathane and Duco Cement for fletching. Last batch I made Walmart didn't have Duco so I fletched with Platimum Fletch Tite...wrong move every arrow in that dozen has lost at least one of the feathers first time ever with woodies after 25 years of making them.