Why is it that so many bowyers seem to neglect this piece of information from their descriptions and other sources of information? This seems like such a fundamental question yet you rarely see it answered on literature or websites even in their FAQs.
I was thinking the sameee thing!! I agree. I think its time some bowyers put this on the label with their bows
That's a very important factor when trying to calculate spine. You can measure it on your own bow but its a lot easier to just ask the bowyer. Just remember to add strike plate thickness.
I can't seem to understand why any bowyer wouldn't cut to center at least. Sure doe's make the bow more forgiving of arrow spines and tuning issues.
The are some bow designs that just will not allow them to be center shot.
How may people who purchase cars or trucks inquire about the turning radius?... is it neglect when the salesman or car dealership doesn't provide this info?
How sharp you can turn your truck depends on the weight of the cargo, and how fast you are going...
In the last 3 years I'll bet I've only had two archers out of hundreds inquire about shelf depth.
i have to ask a question in return.....
Why is it you can take 3 different long bow designs at 50@28", all cut exactly to center, and still have 3 completely different arrow set ups to get the best arrow flight?
Good points Kirk. How far are your bows cut? :bigsmyl:
The reason some LB are not cut to center is convention and conservatism. As an example the NA Longbow Safari won't qualify your bow if it is cut more than 1/8 before center.
It is important to me to know center cut, and I have to ask a lot. I also like to know the boyer's recommended draw length range. I don't see that most times. Black Widow and A@H ACS do a nice job on that type of info.
I have learned not to expect any given used bow to have standard center cut. I make sure and ask a boyer about standard center cut and if it has change. My bow orders are specific on required center cut even it that center cut is standard. One of my custom bows came with a different center cut than what was standard when I ordered it over a year before production. That messed me up because I ended up between spines on carbon arrows and had to shoot a lot heavier points on a stiffer spine arrow than what I had planned. I didn't even have what I needed for shaft to tune and shoot the bow when it arrived.
There was a list around here, containing the arrow pass cut of many bow models, not too long ago. Don't know where it is located however. Might can do a search and pull it up.
Good point Kirk. Maybe that should be a question asked by the purchaser when shopping for bows.
I don't ask because I don't care. One of the fun things about archery is getting a new to me bow to shoot well enough to kill a deer with it. Just me.
My go to bows are cut 3/16 past, when they/we say that bows cut past center are more forgiving of arrow spine that's mostly marketing. It is true once the shaft is fletched, try bareshafting that same 'variety of spines' from the same bow and see what happens.
Tuning is tuning and there is no silver bullet.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
Tuning is tuning and there is no silver bullet.
Well said Bjorn.
I cut the sight window to the depth the customer wants it cut; I even cut my Frontier string follow to 3/16past center if the customer wants it. It requires a phenolic I beam to do that though. There is no design that cannot be cut at least to center. Its a matter of whether the bowyer knows how to do it and still make the bow safe and strong.; Most do not want to spend either the time or effort; End of story there; I believe the thread was started by a bowhunter that shoots my longbows and likes the windows cut 3/16past center. It does make a difference in tunability and easily acceptance of various spines. some even shoot mixed arrows out of their quivers. Not that I reccomend that.
Anyway Eaglewing = please the customer.; I ask the question. How far do you want your sight window cut past center?
God bless, Steve
I need to know this info because I shoot right handed and im left eye dominant, but call a big bow company like BW and ask them, they dont know, I called them 2 weeks ago, talked to a Toby, he said, im not sure, I was floored, he's been working there nearly his whole life.Thats why I hunt with newer Bears, they tell you in the desciption, Cut to Center...
This is an old thread with lots of lists..
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=105120
Thanks Hoyt, that is an excellent resource and I use Stu's calculator. Just the fact that we have to go to all the trouble with lists and such seems to be illustrative of the requirement for this information.
Turn Radius? I think shelf depth would be more akin to manual or automatic :D .
floodman, black widow didn't know how their shelves were cut?
I would not make it up, inquired about a KB and asked how close to center is the riser cut, and he said Im not sure, I think 3/16.... I was waiting for him to say wait a minute and let me go check, nope, and I said thanks, and we both hung up the phone..
Really doesn't make much difference how deeply the shelf is cut. I have bows from 1/8-inch proud of center to 3/16 past center. They all shoot good, and I don't find one to be more difficult to tune than the other, well maybe the bows cut 3/16 past center. Just need to remember to go heavier on those. As Bjorn said, tuning is tuning.
The Black Widow catalog (http://blackwidowbows.com/download/BWBCatalog.pdf) contains the centercut information for each of their bows, including the KB, which is cut 1/8" past center.
Well it would help if they read there catalog,cause I dont.Vs ask on this site. I go straight to the cow for Milk..1/8 aint 3/16 either,Dosen't matter they will probably build you what ever your wallet says,They are fine bows,for sure..