I'm going to attempt my first wood arrow build and I'd like to limit my screw-ups if possible. I have some Surewood Fir on the way and I'm going to use 3R oil graybark stain on some, white capped and crested. I thought I was just going to have to decide between Fletch-lac and Gasket laquer to seal, but every thread I read seems like everyone that builds an arrow swears by a different paint/ sealer combo.
If I use gasket laq. do I seal over the paint or will it smear? What about wipe on sealers. Does it work to use water base over laquer or vice versa? Is it best not to seal over the paint at all?
Min wax poly seems popular, is it best wiped or dipped? What about spray paints/ spray sealers?
Also, I would like a suggestion for a lighter stain on fir to bring out the grain or should I just seal over wood?
I use minwax water based stain on my woods, and minwax wipe on poly(wiped with a soft cloth 4 coats). I use regular spray paint for crown dip and water based craft paints for cresting. Dry time between every step and coat is the most important thing you could do. let it dry!
I have always just used bohning sealer/paint to make sure of compatability. As far as stains, it doesn't seem to matter what brand. Where are you in MN? If your anywhere near Aitkin, I'd be glad to lend a hand.
Ted
I just finished my first set of woodies, a half dozen Surewood Doug Firs. Here's what I did.
Stained with Minwax 'Early American' stain (oil based)
Masked off and painted a 7" cap using acrylic craft paint(with a brush)
Crested a single silver stripe at the start of the cap also with acrylic craft paint(by hand just rotating the shaft)
Sealed with Minwax Wipe-On Poly (oil Based)
I got the craft paints at Home Depot, I just stumbled across it, it was a kit of like 24 colors for $10. Figured it was worth a shot. Probably like a dozen useable colors and a bunch of glitter added and neon pink colors. Still pretty dang cheap.
Glued feathers and nocks on with Gorilla super glue (blue tube). I think it bonded better with that wipe on poly than it ever did on my carbons.
For stain, if you want a nice light color, go with natural or pecan. You will be pleased with the color. As for the rest, tinker around, you will find what you like and are good at.
I jsut made some woodies today ( finished them actually). I used stain and white paint UNDER the gasket lacquer. Tehy look real nice, no smears. I did let the stain adn paint dry for a few days to make sure I do not have any excess moisture try to work its way out of the GL - that can cause it to peal off in time. I think painting under the sealant is fine, I have no paint streaks.
Good luck to you.
Bob.
mncarphntr,
I sent you an email with pics.
Bob.
I am still using gasket lacquer so here is what I do. I stain using aneline dyes or water based stain (any water based stain) let it dry over night. I then take a gray scotch bright pad looking thing and knock down any raised grain. If I am white cresting, I use white gasket lacquer and do not stain under that (takes too many coats to cover sometimes). About two dips, maybe three and the crest is done. I then dip entire shaft in clear gasket lacquer twice. I then crest what I want, let it dry over night, then spray the cresting with water based poly, let it dry for a few hours or more 70 degrees plus. Then one final dip in clear gasket lacquer. I recently picked up some Daly's Pro Fin from Bob to make the process easier - Gasket Lacquer does have draw backs but works well for shaft that don't last more than a few years. Here is a batch I just finished doing it that way
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1359574566.JPG) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1359574566.JPG)
Raming those are beauties. Most often 'incompatibilities' can be negated by increasing dry time. I dip with a water based acrylic finish that has no smell and is waterproof when dry, but my arrows are pretty plain
(http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/bjornweb/ElkArrows.jpg)
Bjorn,
How many coats do you dip.
I've got to get to something non smelly. My wife can't handle the smell of Bohnings even in my shop.
.
3r has a water base sealer that works well.
I really like gasket laquer. I can zip out 2 to three coats on my arrows in no time. I do it rigth on the kithcen table ... no mess and no fumes. ( No angry wife )
Seriuosly, no fumes what-so-ever.
Bob.
Wood arrows all sealed, dipped, and crested like I see here are beautiful. I tried to get into this about 10 years ago (whoops, 2001). I quit because:
1. I was making too big a mess.
2. I couldn't get the arrows straight enough.
3. When I did make up some and shot them into 3-D targets they came out looking burnt (black streaked on 6-8 inches at the point end.
Kudos to those of you who have mastered this. I know all the ills I related are my fault for not knowing enough. The only part of it I liked was fletching and cresting.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bowwild:
Wood arrows all sealed, dipped, and crested like I see here are beautiful. I tried to get into this about 10 years ago (whoops, 2001). I quit because:
1. I was making too big a mess.
2. I couldn't get the arrows straight enough.
3. When I did make up some and shot them into 3-D targets they came out looking burnt (black streaked on 6-8 inches at the point end.
Kudos to those of you who have mastered this. I know all the ills I related are my fault for not knowing enough. The only part of it I liked was fletching and cresting.
1-I use Parks waterbased wood floor finish, no smell/mess
2-Try Surewood douglas fir, and you will be amazed (they are darn near XX75 straightness).
3-Blake @ Eclipse Broadheads has developed a field point called a "Chubby Bunny". Has a bullet nose, and flare to reduce target burn on the arrow shaft, also reduces penetration too.
Tons of advancements in the past few years.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I picked up some Minwax poly today, I think I will try that on some. Maybe still try gasket laquer later.
Related question on spining. I made a spine tester that seems to work well and am going to spine all the shafts first. Is it proper to check all 4 sides of the shaft and average the spine or use the highest number?
No, you check the spine on the grain, ideally with the rift of the arrow pointing towards the point, the way they are going to be shot. So where the cock feather goes, is the side you check the spine.
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1359644603.bmp) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1359644603.bmp)
Macbow I dip 3 coats-they dry in about a half hour. I have left arrows in puddles of water and I hunt in the rain-never had a shaft compromised by water or humidity. Oil based dip is likely stronger but the water based acrylic works fine for arrows.
Rraming,
Did you dip the white cap?
QuoteOriginally posted by Keb:
Rraming,
Did you dip the white cap?
Yes with white gasket lacquer and 13 pro dipper tube, read my post above and I tell you how I do it. The white lacquer can be tricky, it usually comes too thick and needs to be thinned (acetone is better, lacquer thinner next) otherwise it goes on too thick. I never stain under it or it takes too many coats to cover. I just mark spot it's ending with pencil and dip to mark., 2-3 coats (depends on thickness and gasket) then clear dip over it.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
Macbow I dip 3 coats-they dry in about a half hour. I have left arrows in puddles of water and I hunt in the rain-never had a shaft compromised by water or humidity. Oil based dip is likely stronger but the water based acrylic works fine for arrows.
That's a big plus, gasket lacquer the shaft would be shot, I get arrows back from a club, the ones I lost, and they are always no good, white, cloudy and cracked. Most I do not see until one year out in the elements, won't even let my kids shoot them.
Thanks Bjorn,
I quit the gasket lacquer years ago, just was not water proof.
Do you use a gasket or just dip like with Bohnings .
Well that's interesting. Which finishes are weather resistant and which aren't?
I still use the time tested fletch lac,but remember it's lacquer based so the paint for dip and the glue for fletching also has to be lacquer..Seal the arrows first then dip and crest or they'll run..you must use fletch lac glue also ,(no Duco)--Epoxy or hot melt is OK for the tips..You can use automotive lacquer. Fletch lac (brand) doesn't recommend it,but it's still compatable..
I use a product called Zip-Guard a waterbase poly. Will clear over every paint and stain that I have ever tried in the last 20 plus years that I have been using it. No smell and is thin like water. Only need 2 coats. Best clear on the market , but hard to find.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v462/Cbireley/2013-01-27_10-05-51_379_zps13377c9e.jpg)