Hi all
I have finally begun the making of my first set of arras.
The shafts I am using come from Surewood and are 11/32 Premium Douglas Fir 70-75.
I am using the new version of the Tru-Centre Taper tool (V2), I was a little worried that these pencil sharpener type tools would struggle on the Douglas Fir but was pleasantly surprised that it shaved beautifully, no gouging as some had reported on harder woods.
This thing is idiot proof (thankfully) and I just used a light pressure to shave what looks like to my beginners eye as a perfect taper. I believe that this version fixed a number of issues experienced on the original tool.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3779_zps049369dd.jpg)
I have just done the nock end on 12 shafts that I will cut to size once I have the nocks mounted.
There are three shafts that I did both ends on at full length. I intend giving these to a friend with a long draw if they turn out acceptable.
So not much to add here, but I intend updating regularly now that I have actually started.
Cheers
Jase
... this arra making malarky is a piece of cake :D
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3783.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3780.jpg)
It pays to delegate... 0000 steel wool and point tapering.
erm, and now onto the more difficult bits! ;)
I have now tested the points and nocks on the tapers and they fit like a glove.
Here is the latest, I have masked off the area I will be doing the white cap and cresting and then stained with Feast & Watson brand - Jarrah - which is a Western Australian tree with a dark red timber. There will probably be some bleeding under the masking tape but I thought It can't hurt trying anyway.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3784.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3785.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3786.jpg)
That is all I will be able to do for now, I want to give the stain 24 - 48 hours before I cap. Not sure if I should do a coat of Minwax prior to the capping to seal the stain a bit?? Either way, I am not going to rush the next steps without a good amount of drying time.
All advice welcome.
Cheers
Jase
looking good!
those are coming along nicely.
Always fun to watch arrows being made!
Bernie Bjorklund
NC Iowa/SW Wisconsin
As a general rule most of the pencil sharpener hand held models don't work as well on fir, but the proof is in the pictures. Maybe the blades are sharper, keep them changed often. I do know that Bear Paw tapering tools with the cordless drill adapter turns the shafts faster and more even, and works well. Good luck with your shafts, Surewood Steve
THanks fellas,
I am sure the blade will dull quicker on Fir, I purchased a spare at the same time, it will be interesting to see how many shafts I get out of a blade.
Cheers
Jase
Looking Good!
I have the same taper tool. 2 dozen douglas fir shafts without a hiccup so far. I love your drying rack. After trying to figure out some fancy way to hold my arrows while they dry I arrived at the same solution-the ever useful milk crate!
THanks fellas!
Jarrah stain with two thin coats on Minwax Wipe On Poly. Lightly sanded between coats with 0000 steel wool. 36C with 30% humidity makes this drying very fast. The harsh sunlight is a bit distracting on the pic. 15 shaft in total.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3816.jpg)
Looking good!
Those arrows are looking good and that Taper Tool does a nice job... :thumbsup:
I'm getting a Crester, want to build some from raw shafts, I am so confused on. On gasket lacquer, dipping, wiping poly spray ect.
What's the simplest bullet proof way to stain, dip ect I have some testers model paint.
Any help the cheaper the better will be making them for my use.
Thanks for the comments and encouragement fellas!
@Keb I am no expert here. We don't have gasket lacquer in Australia to the best of my knowledge, so can't help there.
I prepped the shafts by using 0000 steel wool (these Surewood shafts dont need much to get them glass smooth) You can use 350 or higher dry lube paper
If you are using a soft porous wood then you can use a sanding sealer and a good rub down with 0000 steel wool or very fine sandpaper prior to the staining if you are really keen.
I applied the stain (spirit based) non diluted with a soft lint free rag, let it dwell on the timber for a couple of minutes and used clean rag to remove excess. Repeat until you get the desired colour you want.
I will be using masking tape and newspaper to mask off the stained areas (basically reverse of what you see in the picture with the blue tape on it), and the do the capping with enamel spray paint. I will then use Testors model paints for the cresting.
And finally I will apply more coats of Minwax.
I think I have covered the rest in my post above.
Use the search function here the many threads here and tips from the real experts here - I am a raw noob at this, although I do have some experience in restoring and finishing furniture.
Cheers
Jase
I just finished with 2 arrows, one POC, the other Douglas Fir, it has been about 6 years since I made an arrow. They turned out alright, but not great.
QuoteOriginally posted by High Desert Hunter:
I just finished with 2 arrows, one POC, the other Douglas Fir, it has been about 6 years since I made an arrow. They turned out alright, but not great.
Id love to see some pics
Looking good so far a whole lot fancier than mine, Gonna have to order me some more Surewoods soon, not that I need them but just like to build them!!! I use the pencil sharpener type taper tools have a couple of them guess I built about 3 or 4 dozen woodies last year worked out ok.
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb149/beerman3133/_DSC0005_01_zps6022a1ae.jpg)
Here they are, the 2 on the left are POC, the 1 on the right is Douglas Fir.
THey look good to me HDH
here is the update...
The next pic shows the reverse masking
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3818.jpg)
This one is 2 light coats of gloss white
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3819.jpg)
Cheers
Jase
Yours are going to look amazing!
Okay, here is the latest, capped and soon to be ready for cresting...when I get a jig sorted that is
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3826.jpg)
Cheers
Jase
Okay - update time,
I killed numerous feathers with my first dying attempts - what I wanted it to be, was the Dark blue from the Australian flag- what a learning experience dying bloody feathers.
After much trial and error I have sussed out how to effectively get the royal blue I was after. Big Thanks to Magnus for giving me some very valuable advice!!!
THe blue is a bit darker than in the feathers pic but more accurate in the next.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3866_zpsd9231be5.jpg)
Here is my very first attempt at splicing - It is not perfect but this was more to see whether I could get the gist of it. I intend having approximately 1cm more blue at the back.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3859_zpsaa55f565.jpg)
Cheers
Jase
oops double post
Looking good! :thumbsup:
Looks like your having fun. Looking forward to the finished product.
Those are gonna look pretty cool.I like the spray on cap,hadn't even thought of that.
THanks fellas
ere's kinda where I am heading...
This pic shows the rough test of the, erm, dare I say it - the red cock feather.
I am not sure if I will keep the thin blue splices as I could be in for a world of pain doing them???
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac155/Yonjuro/Arrow%20Building%201/IMG_3867_zpsf911ac1f.jpg)
Those are looking great Jase! Looks like you got the dyeing figured out. Look forward to the finished pics of you erra's. :thumbsup:
that looks great! you should keep the blue.
By the looks at the nock end the new taper tool works better then thier first one...The ends on that Fir look great and No chatter marks at all...Keep the blade clean and replaced if it begins to dall and you will be making great looking arrows...I give a :thumbsup: on the new taper tool...
I am practicing on some dowel rods, here is my run down:
Sand
Wipe with clean rag
Stain with minwax water based stain
Sand
Apply minwax poly water based wipe on
Sand
Crest w testers paint
Apply minwax poly wipe on
Does tho sound some what correct, they seem to be looking decent, before I try real shafts.
THanks guys,
Yeah, that taper tool is a gem in my toolbox! Gentle turns is my advice based on my limited experience.
@Keb, your procedure seems sound to me. I use 0000 steel wool to sand. and I recommend that you do your tapers if you are confident of your required length after your first sand but before your next stages. Or at least do your nock tapers. - Again I must state that I am a beginner in making arras.
Cheers
Jase
QuoteOriginally posted by Keb:
I am practicing on some dowel rods, here is my run down:
Sand
Wipe with clean rag
Stain with minwax water based stain
Sand
Apply minwax poly water based wipe on
Sand
Crest w testers paint
Apply minwax poly wipe on
Does tho sound some what correct, they seem to be looking decent, before I try real shafts.
Keb, Yep thats about the easiest way to do it. I've never used the water base minwax just the regular minwax but I think two coats of stain usually looks better and then I do 3 coats of wipe on poly before the cresting then two coats of poly after the cresting.
Jase, Those look really nice! I really like the color of the stain.
QuoteOriginally posted by German Dog:
Jase, Those look really nice! I really like the color of the stain.
Thanks mate,
THe stain is Jarrah which is a tree native of my home State. Beautiful dark red hardwood.
Cheers
Jase