How do I convert my table saw into an arrow (nock and point) taper tool?? Those hand held taper tools are not sharp enough to taper my hardwood arrows. I am too cheap to buy a woodchuck.
justin
Justin, I believe Sears sells a disc pad that goes in place of the blade, for $20-30. May be available elsewhere also. Then you just need to make a angle/guide block to set the shafts at the proper angle.
Eric
I started out with a disc on my table saw until I got 12" disc sander. There is a set up time taking the saw blade off and putting on the sanding disc. Don't go too fine on your grit on the disc, I use at least 60 grit. The trick is making jigs that are exactly 5 & 11 degrees for point and nocks. I do most of the tapering at Surewood.
12" disc sander. sounds like a good fathers day present. when is turkey season????
I've been using a table saw with a sanding disk for years. When you make your taper boards, put a small stopper block on the end of each. That way, you can rest the taper board against the rip fence and once you have the taper board adjusted, you just slide and turn the shaft along the board sanding the taper as you go until the shaft hits the block at the end of the jig. Each taper comes out the same length and thickness. No undergrinding into stubby tapers or overgrinding into needle points. I agree that you shouldn't go too fine with the sand paper. I generally use 80 grit. Good luck.
Before I got my 12" disc sander I used a table saw to grind arrow tapers. I used a fiber metal cutting blade and glued the sanding disc to the fiber blade. Could also use an old metal blade and glue the disc to it.
This is on a disc sander, but I'm sure it would work with any grinding setup.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/SANY0080.jpg)
Works great, sharpener type just didn't do doug fir shafts for me...
Notice the stop blocks Kenny has at the point end of the taper. That's what I was attempting to explain.
Those were add ons, notice the sharpie mark where I wanted the taper to end.
I use a jig like kenny's.
A belt sander works too. Also a used (or new for that matter) belt sander w/a disc sander are pretty cheap and easy to find.
It is also a very useful tool generally so it is a great addition to the shop.
Lastly I think the jig and sander is a much better way to go versus the specialty built arrow grinders for the reasons above.
QuoteOriginally posted by Surewood Steve:
I started out with a disc on my table saw until I got 12" disc sander. There is a set up time taking the saw blade off and putting on the sanding disc. Don't go too fine on your grit on the disc, I use at least 60 grit. The trick is making jigs that are exactly 5 & 11 degrees for point and nocks. I do most of the tapering at Surewood.
Having bought from Surewood and having spoken to Steve on the phone personally, I'd take his advice. Surewood shafts are tops. So is Steve.
I need to ask for a disc sander for Father's Day ;)