What do you guys like and at what distance? Thanks. Bill
I prefer bareshaft testing with a traditional bow.I like to have mine slightly weak to allow for fletching weight.I start at about 10 yds,to make sure I hit the target.Then when it gets closer I'll move back to 20 yds for finer tuning.Been doing this since I started shooting trad 20 yrs ago,even did it with wood arrows.Only did paper tuning when I shot wheel bows years ago.Just the way I like to tune my arrows,it works for me.
I'm with John waste of time paper tune imo too much going on with finger release bareshaft will tell you where you're at!
i'm not a great shot but when i get one tuned i can group them out to 40 yds or so baresaft not saying how big a group though lol
Bareshaft
Bareshaft for me. I've never paper tuned....haven't felt a need to. Once I get the bare shafts shooting well and the fine tuning done with fletched arrows I shoot my broadheads. That's the final and most important part of tuning to me.
I paper tune at about 12 feet.
I believe both can compliment each other.
Paper tuning should be far enough away so Archers Paradox is through most of its phase...maybe 10 yards
For those that say "bareshafting", are you testing by watching arrow in flight or as how the arrow ends up in the target?
Good question. I have bare shafts that hit pretty close to fletched arrows but are not the straitest flight in the world. My form and release is pretty decent.
Not trying to jack the thread by any means... But since we're talking about bare shaft tuning. Can someone post on how you go about doing it? Or is it the same as bare shaft tuning with a compound? Maybe someone can post a video?
bare shaft at 15 yards, all I have ever done.
if your right handed pick your arrow then point shoot a group at about 15 yds if you are grouping to the right then you are weak on spine if your arrows group left you are stiff if you are down the middle you are close.
to bring weak arrows back in line go lighter on point weight if you are stiff add point weight to bring them down the middle i lways leave the tune a little weak before fletching them up as feathers will typically stiffen spine somewhat there is tons of info on this subject be prepared for many varying opinions but what i have said is basic stuff good luck!
I bareshaft tune using O.L. Adcocks method of Bare shaft planing. http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm
Before reading through OL's thing again. Doesn't he say it matters NOT how the Shafts fly but the point of impact is what matters? Bill
Done both but now only paper tune at 6-12 feet.
I am a paper tune guy, but you must draw the bow to the same place every time and have a fairy clean release. but those two things are true for any type of tuning.
I bare shaft to 50 yards and use the ol adcock method for BH and Field Points.
I bareshaft the Black Widow way. one bareshaft at 15 yards to start, watching the arrow flying to the target. Flying nock left is weak, nock right is stiff. Then I move back to 20 yards and I'm good to go. Take your time and watch your form
Paper tune at 6-8 feet. I make sure with broadheads.
I prefer to paper tune myself. I shoot anywhere from 5 to 15 feet. Always had good luck with this method. It will definitely tell on your release, but I kind of like that. Let's me know what I'm doing.
Jason
QuoteOriginally posted by Rick Richard:
For those that say "bareshafting", are you testing by watching arrow in flight or as how the arrow ends up in the target?
Watching arrow flight. Grouping doesn't work for me, My arrows group together, but I can see them wobble in flight.
An excellent way to see flight of bare shafts without really looking at arrow " Lighted Nock" you will really see flight!!!
Paper for me...PR
Bareshaft at 10-12 yds. once I get them sticking into foam target fairly straight (meaning slightly weak) I then shoot 3 fletched and 3 bareshafts for groups at around 20yds. if grouping close works for me !!!
http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html
QuoteOriginally posted by Bullfrog 1:
Before reading through OL's thing again. Doesn't he say it matters NOT how the Shafts fly but the point of impact is what matters? Bill
That is correct Bill. I have been using this method of tuning for 6 years and Always end up with excellent arrow flight.
QuoteOriginally posted by JamesKerr:
I bareshaft tune using O.L. Adcocks method of Bare shaft planing. http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm
Always works for me too.
I paper tune at 6' and then at about 15'. As stated above it takes pretty clean release to make it work.
Bisch
Paper tune 9 to 10 feet. WIDOW
I do both.
I start by bare shafting and watching wha tthe arrow does in flight. Once I get all the kick out of the arrow< iswitch to paper. I paper tune at 6' and do minor tweeks until I get a good tear. A IBO world champ told me to tune this way and my arrows fly better then ever.
Troy Breeding has a little bit different way to bare shaft tune. Its on the Tuffhead website. Pretty good read. Just click on Tuffhead at top of this page.
Bareshaft to me till 35 yards
Bareshaft. Impact AND how they fly work equally for me. I typically can see the nock- left, right, up or down. I also have someone look over my shoulder as second opinion.
Just remember this is TRAD. While the techno/compound world increasingly has its influence on this aspect of archery AND I know some guys really like being technical, many of us did it for decades with wood shafts and decent fletching! Don't make it harder than it need be.
I shoot three bare shafts and at least three fletched together and compare the impact positions between the two. I work to get them grouping together, but I've found the most forgiving setup has my bare shafts grouping slightly right (weak) and slightly low (nock high) at 25 yards or beyond (I'm right handed). The bare and fletched groups overlap, but if you were to draw circles around them both and compare the center of each, the center of the bare shaft group would be slightly low right from the center of the fletched. It takes a while, usually several sessions of tweaking.
If I try to watch the arrow in flight is sometimes messes up my follow through which in turn sometimes causes the shaft to plane a bit...in other words looking for the arrow can introduce and uncontrolled variable for me. Besides, if the arrow is planning significantly it won't group with the fletched shafts anyway.