I bought a spring scale and want to make a verticle bow rack with pulley(s) to draw the bow to exact draw lengths; something not mounted (permanent) but rather something I could bungee to a 4x4 porch post and tuck away when not in use.
Any pics of your portable setup?
Also, when drawing, to let's say 28", with three fingers and then drawing a bow with a scale with only one small hook of maybe 1/4" wide as a contact point, what variances might I see with the one small point vs. a contact point that mimics a three finger draw?
Any pics of your drawing setup if made to mimic three finger draw?
Thanks.
Something like this but would like to see more pics or various designs:
From November 2012-
QuoteOriginally posted by virgil.v:
Pelouze Digital Hanging Scale (100 lb), for me.
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj31/upnorthphoto/tradgang/Scale.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj31/upnorthphoto/tradgang/P1030129copie.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj31/upnorthphoto/tradgang/IMG_2017copie.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj31/upnorthphoto/tradgang/IMG_2019copie.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj31/upnorthphoto/tradgang/IMG_2020copie.jpg)
It didn't make sense :rolleyes: ... Look bellow!!
You could use a hand crank from a patio umbrella to draw the bow, or a small boat trailer hand crank. As for the finger part a piece of string tied into a 3" loop and wrapped over the string and put on a hook would allow for an arrow to be nocked.
I like the design above and have heavy leather and a grommet setting set. I might reinforce the blocks a bit with a 30/60/90 cut block of wood wedge as I would hate to have the glue/screws on the blocks shown above to turn loose and create havoc. A handle crank might be nice but also might be overengineering the need for a simple but effective tool. Maybe a block and tackle for easily drawing the weight with a rope pull.
I like the tape measure use on this one as bows vary in thickness back to belly and this needs to be adjustable.
Anyone else with ideas? Pics?
Nice idea Bud. I will be watching this one. I keep saying I'm going to build a self bow, and this would be a nice addition.
I use this luggage scale from the local box store.
(http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac170/longcruise/Archery/scalemeas.jpg)
(http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac170/longcruise/Archery/results.jpg)
Since the scale marks the high point, you can focus on drawing the bow to the length desired. Also makes it easy to put together an FD chart.
Had not thought of the diff possible between fingers and hook on the string. Might make an adaptor and take a look at the diff.
QuoteOriginally posted by David Yukon:
As for the 3 fingers vs the hook, Steve at Northern Mist, says that he use a small block of wood to mimic the fingers on the string, ad that his bows read a bit lighter that when you use just the hook.
I have a Classic 60#28, and on my scale with just the hook, it read 62#28...
That is strange.... i use a block shaped in the same configuration as fingers and they always measure heavier than just using a hook. it puts more pressure on the limbs with a wider hook. :dunno:
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u301/kirkll/Bows%202013/Steves%20long%20bows/IMAG0709.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by Kirkll:
QuoteOriginally posted by David Yukon:
As for the 3 fingers vs the hook, Steve at Northern Mist, says that he use a small block of wood to mimic the fingers on the string, ad that his bows read a bit lighter that when you use just the hook.
I have a Classic 60#28, and on my scale with just the hook, it read 62#28...
That is strange.... i use a block shaped in the same configuration as fingers and they always measure heavier than just using a hook. it puts more pressure on the limbs with a wider hook. :dunno:
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u301/kirkll/Bows%202013/Steves%20long%20bows/IMAG0709.jpg) [/b]
I too thought that a wider contact point would cause more bend and therefore a higher reading.
Keep it coming guys and gals.
Anyone ever worry about the bow slipping and turning on its end when drawing with one of these?
Kirk, how do you secure the bow at the top, also when attaching the device to the string do you put it at your nocking point or center the string to grip on handle, thanks
Same plans as an archery draw board - real easy, hand winch (boat winch) and a post mounted to a board to hold the handle of the bow. Some say that gravity plays a role and horizontal is better than verticle. Google it
Kirk, maybe I got it wrong?!?! I would need to check back on that... If only Steve would reply to my emails....
I need to look it up again... But for some reason I trust what you say. I you know your Stuff!!
Kirk, you are right as is Steve....
As far as the draw weight on my longbows, I scale them a little differently. I have a small block on the scale hook with a groove in the top for the string to ride in. The block is about the same width as three fingers. If I scale the longbow with just the bare hook, it will read about three pounds lighter. Since nobody draws a longbow with one finger I feel that by scaling the longbow with the block you get a truer representation of what the bow is actually pulling.
Thanks David
Steve
So I need to check my scale.....
Cheers
David
David, Steve is swamped with getting ready for the Kalamazoo show. I am sure he will catch up with you soon.
He said his bows will read a tad lighter when using just the hook.
CTT
QuoteOriginally posted by rraming:
Same plans as an archery draw board - real easy, hand winch (boat winch) and a post mounted to a board to hold the handle of the bow. Some say that gravity plays a role and horizontal is better than verticle. Google it
I have also read and heard that scaling a bow horizontally with a spring scale causes false readings.
Anyone with experience on this? Spring scales are made to be used vertically, from what I gather, and gravity is the drawing force depending on the weight.
Or does it really matter one way or the other??
While I don't have pictures to share, I will do best to describe what I use:
I have a piece of 2" x 4" screwed perpendicular to a wall stud. The top of this 2" x 4" is shaped to an inverted V shape so that it fits into the deepest portion of the grip and has a piece of leather glued on it to protect the grip. This way I am measuring draw per industry standards regardless of grip type. Also, the V-block has a thin wooden cap mounted on the end facing you to prevent the bow from accidently slipping off of it.
I shoot split finger, some shoot 3 under and others use a release so my string attachment from the electronic scale is shaped according to the individual shooting style. I use a hook for a release shooter, a solid (3 finger wide strap) of leather for 3 under, or a split (3 finger plus nock width) leather for myself. If I measure the same bow and only vary the string attachment, I will get 3 different poundage readings. It will usually vary by about 1.5 pounds. Does this make a big difference, not usually except to those that shoot on the edge of the arrows designated spine limits.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bud B.:
QuoteOriginally posted by rraming:
Same plans as an archery draw board - real easy, hand winch (boat winch) and a post mounted to a board to hold the handle of the bow. Some say that gravity plays a role and horizontal is better than verticle. Google it
I have also read and heard that scaling a bow horizontally with a spring scale causes false readings.
Anyone with experience on this? Spring scales are made to be used vertically, from what I gather, and gravity is the drawing force depending on the weight.
Or does it really matter one way or the other?? [/b]
Your adding the weight of whatever is hanging below the bow, that's the theory anyway. No way to know if a bow draws the same vertical and horizontal. Maybe of you had the scale above the bow, rather than below it.
I think I am going to mount it above the bow. Pulley on top. Then the scale. Bow handle connection point will be low at waist level or near floor level. String drawn upward.
Interesting thread Bud. :thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by Keith Langford:
Kirk, how do you secure the bow at the top, also when attaching the device to the string do you put it at your nocking point or center the string to grip on handle, thanks
I have a couple blocks mounted on the wall allowing me to use square riser block or shaped grip with a padded dowel.
Here is a little video showing my PPI reader i came up with a few years back for getting accurate DFC charts. I've got a much better set up in progress if can ever find time to get it put together.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u301/kirkll/th_PPIreader.jpg) (http://s171.photobucket.com/albums/u301/kirkll/?action=view¤t=PPIreader.mp4)
Anyone with experience on this? Spring scales are made to be used vertically, from what I gather, and gravity is the drawing force depending on the weight.with a digital scale you zero it out after the hook is placed on the string. whit a Spring scale you zero it out after it's hanging. The hay scale that i have weighs a couple pounds. they are designed to use vertically.
ttt for anyone else's ideas or input.
Hey Bud, I think the easiest way(for me) is like Kirk does. If you are nervous about the bow going for a ride, you could devise a clamp of some sort.
As Kirk pointed out, if the scale is zeroed then it will display the correct weight when drawn.
I have a block in my wall that I can turn 90*
one side is flat for Straight grips and when I turn it, I can rest a pistol type grip on it easy enough. I just need to make small adjustments to my inch scale.
I like that pivoting block idea Chuck. Thanks.
Here is a really simple set up that I used to make a tiller tree when removing some material from the limbs to lighten the draw weight. Screw in a tree step at top and cover with a piece of garden hose to protect the riser. Then you need 2 pulleys with the bottom one attached to an eye hook on the bottom. Put in a hook a foot above the bottom hook and start the line there, then thread the pulleys and you are good to go. I marked the paper in the background every inch and used a level to ensure they were all parallel.
(http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp107/lotusf14/Tillertree017-Copy-1_zpscb8d8ad9.jpg)
ttt once more for any other ideas.
I have gotten good ideas sparked from what's been posted already.
Thanks.
Mine is just a couple of 2x4'S that I clamp to a bench...
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/Hackberry%20Bow%20project%20Oct%202011/Hackberrystave003a.jpg)
The scale I use is a digital luggage scale with a 2 inch strap.... I think it simulates my split two finger release pretty well...
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/12311114704795P.jpg)