Is a full length hunting arrow ok? How many of you use full length arrows or arrow lengths in the 31-32" range?
Thanks
Mike
I keep my hunting arrows 1" beyond the back of the bow for broadhead clearance, which is 31" for recurve, 30 1/2" for longbow. My target arrows are sometimes longer. Some guys keep a full length arrow for indoor target in order to get the point on the paper. There is nothing wrong with a full length arrow, I just don't like to see so much arrow hanging out over the back of the bow, but thats just my opinion.
I'm a fan of the full length arrow with a 29" draw I like to do my tuning with different spines and point weight.
It all depends on the spine and tuning,I let my tuning determine the final length of my arrows.I don't even consider length.
I shoot full length arrows and they are just long enough for me.
Some of mine fly best at full length with my 28" draw. I dont concern myself with excess out front.
Let the bow tell you. Tuning dictates the length of the arrow.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rick Richard:
Let the bow tell you. Tuning dictates the length of the arrow.
Ditto, I have a top of the line arrow saw and I still do my best to leave an arrow as long as possible. Gives you repair options if you Jack up one end or the other.
I like a long shaft.
And with all due respect, I disagree with tuning dictates the length of the arrow. It all depends on what your trying to achieve, and other important factors, like draw weights, draw length, how the riser is cut.
I can take any length arrow, at any spine and tune it to my bow, just as I can take any weight broadhead and also tune it to my bow. If I want a heavy tip with a long shaft, I move up to a heavier spine. If I want a lighter tip with a long shaft, I move down to a weaker spine.
Conversely, If I wanted a light tip with a short shaft, I would move down to a very weak spine, and if I wanted a heavy tip with a short shaft I would move up to a very heavy spine shaft. It all depends on what your trying to achieve and how well you know your bow.
Once you know what your trying to achive, then the bow will dictate the length of the arrow.
Just my opinion I could be wrong!
Hope this helps.
Just saying after deciding what weight in point I want to use, then the tuning dictates the arrow length based on center cut, poundage, draw length and etc.
I use full length (32") arrows. By the time I taper for head and nock it leaves me 30-1/2" BOP with just 3/4" of shaft ahead of the riser for finger clearance. ;-)
I use 29.5 inch 2016s from my 46@28 Predator. I draw 27.5. I also gap shoot. The extra length also helps me establish a smaller gap. At 20 yards my gap is about 24" blow where I want the arrow to hit.
I determine what arrow length and weight broadhead I want to shoot and then buy the appropriate shaft and tune accordingly. I draw 28 inches and want my arrows to overhang the back of the bow one inch, plus the point.
I shoot mostly wood, which has a wide range of spines so matching spines to the bow at the arrow length I want is not a problem. However, I pretty much do the same thing with carbons. Gone fishing is correct. I buy carbon shafts in the spine that's as close to what I need as possible. Cut them off to 29 inches BOB and then tune them to fit the bow with up front weight and/or strike plate modification as necessary. Almost always, a little tinkering on the front end does the job. This isn't rocket science.
I don't want my arrows longer than necessary because in tight quarters in a tree or blind, for example, an extra inch or two of length can reduce maneuverability. Also, when arrows are in a bow quiver, the nocks can stick in the ground and fill with dirt if one leans the bow against a tree, etc. Depends on bow length, too, of course, but it's more likely to happen with longer shafts. On the target range, arrow length makes no difference, of course, unless you're a gap shooter, where longer length is a benefit.
QuoteOriginally posted by JRY309:
It all depends on the spine and tuning,I let my tuning determine the final length of my arrows.I don't even consider length.
I am in the same boat. I shoot carbons for the most part. I always want to use a brass 100gr insert (except on my AD Hammer Heads) and a Zwicky Delta 4 blade. I cut 'till they tune. In a perfect world I would have around an inch in front of my hand.
My goal is to fine one arrow (with differnet broadheads) that will shoot out of my 55 lb recurve and my 53 lb Omega longbow. That turns out to be a full length 300 axis on stu millers calc. All of my arrows to this point tuned to any where from 29-30 inches. I shoot the recurve on an elevated rest and the longbow off the shelf. Is this a viable option for my two set ups?