Yes i used the search and am sure I even know the answer to my questions. But I am going to ask anyway. I am shooting a 53# Kanati and my draw legnth is right at 28. I bought a dozen CE 150 wanting to make them work for both mine and my sons bow. I have a few cut down to 28.75 and I feel as though they are still slightly weak when bare shafting. Fletched not so much. I am right at 250 up front and that puts me at the bare minimum of about 530 grain arrow. This is my first adventure in tuning my own and carbons so I dont want to muck it up too much. Blast me if you want wont hurt my feelings. Thanks George.
I have no experience with CE's, but I think the concensus here is going to be that you're underspined. You can halve that head weight and find out, but I think 250's will be closer if you're determined to keep that kind of weight up front. Start full length, more carbons get ruined by a cut-off saw than any other reason!
If they are too weak just build out your side plate a little. Simple eh?
Try using Stu Miller's Dynamic Spine Calculator. I use it and get great arrow flight.
I had a 53 # Kanati and draw 28" If I remember right a 29.5" 400 spined Goldtip Traditional with a 200 gr head flew perfect.
I have shot this type of setup. Mine was cut 29" bop and I was shooting 225 up front. Are you getting good flight? I would shoot some holes thru paper and do some bare shafting.
I'd say underspined too. I have a 50# custom longbow and draw it too 47# @ 27". I have a single CE Heritage 150 that I bareshafted and ended up cut to 28" with 200 grains up front. Shoots like a dart for me, but your pulling a few more pounds than me.
If I'm doing this correct, rwbowman's arrows are 9.7 gr per inch with a 50 gr. brass insert and a 125gr. broadhead, at 455 gr., what's wrong with that ? Educate me ?
By the way I shoot a GT1535 with a 50gr brass insert and a 125-150gr broad head out of a 54# recurve.
I shoot 150's out of a 56 lb Black Widow they bare shaft weak shoot perfect with feathers. I also know from my experience that any shaft that is perfect bare is to stiff for me with feathers. I shoot 55-75 gold tips out of the same bow they shoot great too. I generally like mine a little weak.
I couldn't get my 45# Omega to shoot them. I cut them all the way down to 30" and put 100 grains up front, they still bareshafted weak. The 250s fly like darts with 150 up front.
There are too many variables to determine what works for me will work for you. I would start at what you think will work and bare shaft through paper. Paper is a much better method than just watching the flight. When you are able to get bullet holes, then fletch and shoot back through paper. If you get bullet holes again, then you are well tuned. Just remember when cutting carbons, remove a little at a time.
A little weak in bare shaft is OK. Try fletching some and shoot field points and broadheads together and see what that tells you. Also, what onewhohasfun
said is right on the money, build out the side plate a little.
Good Luck
ALDO
Thank you all.
I can shoot a 30" with 175 up front in my MOAB at about 54@29 and I am still over 9 gpp. Not sure on the center cut of your bow. According to Stu's calculator, you can go down to a 150 point and still be right around 9 gpp. I get almost 580 gr. or more dependent on feathers on your current arrow once you add in the feathers, nock, and insert. Give some lighter points a try and build out the side just a little if needed. I think you can get there.