Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Bullfrog 1 on January 10, 2013, 09:33:00 AM
-
Who does it? What distance? Is it really possible with a longbow nowhere near center cut? Thanks. BILL
-
I dont do it, but some others do. This is an old thread that has good info in it for ya.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=117048#000001
-
I do it at about 6-8 feet and I also check mine at around 8-10 yards. I have done it with a longbow, but I have not tried it with one that is not cut to center. This may or may not help you, but here are somethings that I have found about paper tuning.
I think it is a great way to tune your bow, I would even say it may be the best way. However two things are of utmost importance. first you must draw the bow to the same place every time. and secondly, you must make a clean release. I think these are the two main reasons that some trad guys do not like paper tuning. However, If you do your part the paper will not lie.
Also, it seems to me that most longbows will require a much weaker arrow than a recurve does in the same poundage range.
always check your finding with two or three shots before you make a change to your bow or arrow.
Left tear means weak arrow
right tear means stiff arrow
with up and down tears you will some times get false readings because the arrow is bouncing off of the shelf. therefore you will have to play with your nocking point both up and down to fix the vertical tear. I am most concerend with the left/right tear, and I just want to get the up/down close.
to fix a left tear you need to stiffen your arrow. this can be done by removing weight from the front of the arrow, by adding weight to the rear of the arrow, by shorting the arrow, or by raising the brace height of the bow. if it is not fixable that way, you will have to go to a stiffer spined arrow. and it may take a combo of those things to get it fixed.
To fix a right tear you will weaken your arrow. this can be done by adding weight to the front of the arrow, removing weight from the back of the arrow, adding length to the arrow, lowering the brace height of the bow. or it may require you to go to a weaker spined arrow.
Good luck
-
TUNE ALL MY BOWS BUY PAPER AND I PERFER IT OVER BARESHAFTING, WITH THE CORRECT ARROW CENTER CUT OF SELF DOESNT MATTER. AS STATED BY GEN273 A CLEAN RELEASE AND SAME DRAW LENGTH EVERY TIME IS A MUST NO MATTER WHAT TUNING METHOD YOU USE.
:archer2:
-
I tune through paper also with a bareshaft at the distances already mentioned. After getting as close as I can to a perfect bullet hole, I fletch the shafts and shoot through paper again. I find in most cases that I will have to adjust the nock upward so the fletching can clear the shelf and give me a perfect bullet hole.
-
Works good,but you must have a good release.Saviour68+ Rich are exactly right.
-
I do it after I get good bare shaft flight. Once I get the bare shaft where it looks like its flying perfect or close to it i go to the paper and shoot from around 6ft and do minor adjustments from there until I get a bullet hole. works for me
-
Paper tuning is my method of choice as well, normally done at about 6 feet. As stated above, form has to be consistent and good with any method. Pretty much all of my bows are cut out from center; paper tuning works just fine for these bows.
-
I love paper tuning.
Simple and works great.
I normally start at about 5-6 foot from the paper.
You'll hear "you can get a perfect paper tear just by moving closer or further away (paradox)"
This really isn't true.
I move closer a further back to to check after making perfect tears at 5-6 foot. ALWAYS got a good tear at all distances after getting a good tear at 5-6ft.
-
I am with Zradix on the tears. If it is tearing at 6 ft, then it will tear the same for me at shorter or longer distances.
-
I've had great experience with paper tuning for at least 20 years.
It is very simple for me.
1. I select my arrow and components very carefully using Stu's Calculator (have only been using that gem for 3 years).
2. Then I shoot from 6-8 feet.
3. After 3-4 shots all tearing the same (or not at all if I'm lucky) I make my adjustments.
4. Then I check with broadheads to make sure the BH group with the field points.
Sometimes I get so excited because it seems like magic!