Ok, I'm new to traditional archery and thanks to fat fingering the arrows I ordered I have a question. Is it feasible to weaken the spine on the arrows I bought by accident?
I have a Martin Jaguar #50 at 28". My draw is around 28 1/2". I'm trying to shoot XX75 2216 at 31" but every arrow is cocked nock right. I am shooting right hand with a split finger no glove. I am shooting off the shelf and have adjusted the striker both in and out with minimal success. I am shooting bare shafts and have tried field points from 100-175 grains with minimal change.
I can consistently shoot sub 3" groups and often two of three shots are touching even nicked on arrow already. Any help would be appreciated.
You could add more point weight and that will weaken your arrow, but you would probably be better off with 2016's. Those 2216 are a very stiff arrow for a 50# bow.
2016's def would be a lot better. you could try something real hefty in the 225-300g point range with those 2216's but you'll lose a good bit of speed and have more of a rainbow trajectory than you would otherwise. def best off switching arrows. standby for the experts...
js- just plugged your specs into stu miller prog and i think you could get away with a 200-225g point. you could try it and see what kinda trajectory/flight you get. calculates to a nice 16% FOC.
Get a glove or a tab also and your release would be more consistent, and they wont hurt after a good day of shooting. Also look at using wood for arrows or places like commercial sporting good stores(dicks)have inexpensive carbon and aluminum for around $20.00 a six.
I shoot 2117s out of a 48# @ 31" bow. They have similar spine to a 2216. My shafts are uncut (33.5"), and I use 175 grain heads, and I draw about 30.5". I shot 2216s for a while and I think I shot 200-grain heads with full-length shafts. You will need a good bit more weight to cause those 31" shafts to flex correctly. A lighter spine would be your answer, as the extra weight really slows the arrows down. But with enough weight up front, you could probably make the 2216s work.
Thanks for all the inputs. I knew more tip weight was an answer but at what cost, arrow speed and trajectory... I will likely god for new arrows and just make the ones I have radio antenna covers. I'm a redneck of course...
I think I would use them for blunts for stumping, and turn half of them into flu-flus. A fellow just can't have too many arrows.
Or you could get some Gold Tip Trads in 5575 and use the 2216's for footings.
throw some weight up front before you buy new arrows. You may like what you see. I think some 250 grain points would do the trick.
So I bought some carbons, Easton 55-75 and got a little better results with 175's. Odd part is both shafts shoot about the same. Is there something else I'm missing or am I trying to get perfect results as a novice trad shooter? Also started using a tab with three fingers under config
Do they have feathers or vanes? try shooting cock feather in(feather facing toward the bow).
Do they have feathers or vanes? try shooting cock feather in(feather facing toward the bow).
Had vanes but I took them off. Cock feather in is something I never heard of before tho... Anything is worth trying once