Does it matter which end you cut off on Gold Tip arrows? When bare shaft tuning it is a pain to knock out the insert, cut 1/4" off, re-glue insert every time. Why not just cut the nick end? If possible this will save a lot of time! I have been told the best way is to take some off both ends. Helps keep the spine accurate. Just wondering.
i suppose it wouldnt matter what end you cut off. most just use hot melt glue and cut off the point end. the only thing i could see being a problem with cutting of the nock end would be you mite be flecthing over the GT lable depending on how much your cutting off. as far as the spine changing by not cutting equal amounts of both ends... ive heard that and didnt really believe it. i have done it just to see and spine tester said it made no difference.
It does not matter what end you cut off of a carbon arrow unless you care about fletching over there print and you can remove there print if you want to. It will not affect the spine on your gold tips by cutting off only one end. Widow
I've heard some use saran wrap on the insert end, that makes it easier to remove the and cut and reinstall for the next shot, I have never tried it so can't say anything either way.
It does not matter which end you cut from.
Bisch
I've tried the saran wrap and it works great unless you have a new bag target that really grips the arrows.
I don't think it matters much, but I do cut the point end for the first cut to get them in the ballpark and then fine tune cutting the nock end. When I shoot GT 5575's they are around 30-30.5" so I cut them to 31" to start and then put in the insert and cut nock end from there. With the 3555 I don't cut much so only cut the nock end sometimes.
I generally remove the GT label so I think from now on it will cut at nock end. Thanks guys for all the input.
Cling wrap or I use sticky tape. This allows for easy point removal.
From what I have been told, cutting from both ends does not affect the spine of the arrow. However, it can actually affect the overall straightness of the arrow. The way I understand it, the "straightest" part of the arrow tends to be the center. The farther out from center you move (in either direction) the "less straight" the arrow is. That being the case, you could theoretically take an arrow with a straightness of say .006, trim from both ends, and end up with an arrow that is .003 (this is just a number I pulled out of the air). All this being said (and assuming it is truth), I don't think there's too many, if any traditional shooters out there that could consistently tell any difference in point of impact between a .003 and a .006 arrow.
I use a thin serving thread instead of glue. I just wrap it over then end of the insert, then wedge it into the arrow. It holds very well, yet can easily be removed during the tuning process.
Depends on if the shaft is tapered, AD Trads are tapered and you have to trim from the point end. For a parallel shaft it should not matter.
QuoteOriginally posted by bowhuntingrn:
From what I have been told, cutting from both ends does not affect the spine of the arrow. However, it can actually affect the overall straightness of the arrow. The way I understand it, the "straightest" part of the arrow tends to be the center. The farther out from center you move (in either direction) the "less straight" the arrow is. That being the case, you could theoretically take an arrow with a straightness of say .006, trim from both ends, and end up with an arrow that is .003 (this is just a number I pulled out of the air). All this being said (and assuming it is truth), I don't think there's too many, if any traditional shooters out there that could consistently tell any difference in point of impact between a .003 and a .006 arrow.
This is the same thing I've read about Gold Tips. IMO, most can't shoot well enough to tell the difference between .003 and .006. I sure can't.