I havent shot carbons in a looong time so im sorry if this has been covered before! Totally ignorant here about carbons :knothead:
Why are the inserts glued so far into the shaft....instead of set flush? Wouldnt that make a real weak spot above it? Wouldnt you have problems with field points and broadheads screwing in....or is there something to fill that area?
I posted earlier about the new Traditionals they have but the MFX specs look pretty much the same and i can get them from BigJim for allot less.
Ohh and ive never done it but read the threads about footing them with aluminum.....but i just dont understand that insert design
Thanks for the help guys!!!
Lance
I assume you are talking about the HIT insert. The reasons they go into the shaft is because if you put a standard type of insert in it the broadhead would not fit. In essence the arrow shaft becomes the non threaded portion of the insert.
I used the skinny eastons with the HIT insert in the type of bow we don't speak of here. I never thought they were as strong as the standard insert.
As far as carbons go I like goldtip traditional shafts. they come in .600, 500, 400 and 300 spine, and gold tip also sells 100gr brass inserts. Its a little pricey but they fly nicely.
On a second note, I'd like to challenge you to get a clean helical fletch on one of those ultrathin HIT carbon arrows, cause I never could worth a darn. ended up with a very minor offset.
Lance,
The points that are made for the HIT inserts have a small threaded tail, a shoulder that is almost a slip fit with the I.D. of the shaft and a small shoulder that is the back of the point head. The large shoulder gives more surface area that is in contact with the shaft than would a large threaded area. This in essence creates the same stiffness that a standard insert would supply. This allows the point to sit flush with the arrow shaft. Please refer to a picture of the head for reference.
Regards,
Grouse
Bigbad, so the part above the screws go into the shaft? That would explain it!
And Ben i didnt think about that but can see where the more narrow shaft would do that.
Thanks guys!
Little Ben: I 've been toying with Axis shafts (I'm a wood shooter primarily) and haven't had trouble getting a good deal of helical on the small diameter shafts. I'm using a Bitzenburger fletcher. I don't change the amount of angle from my larger 11/32 wood shafts.
Not enough experience with other carbons to know whether they're more vulnerable behind the head. However, because of the small diameter, the shaft actually goes into part of the ferule and is surrounded by my broadheads. Seems this connection right inside the broadhead ferule would work against the end of the shaft splitting. So far ,so good. I've found them quite tough.
The maximum amount of helix you can put on an axis shaft is still pretty extreme. In my opinion a radical helix on an arrow ends up hurting performance. A gentle helix is superior to extreme amounts or offset feathers for spped and stability.
It may just be that my fletching jig is a POS. Apparently I need to scoop up a bitzenburger. Thansk for the correction on that.
I've never shot wood arrows, but just ordered 100 23/64th shafts from Surewood Shafts in 50-55lb. They have seconds for $179.95 shipped for 100 shafts if anyone else is interested. Checkl their website.
Its not a correction. Almost no jig will put the maximum amount of helix on a skinny or micro shaft. The gentle helix I have on my Bitzenburger works on all shafts all the way down to VAPs and gives beyond satisfactory stabilization.