I need some help getting me in the ballbark on spine for Schafer Silvertip Recurve, 63# @ 29" I have a 30" draw. Because of my draw length, my arrows will be 31.5-32" I want to stay at 10gpp and have a pretty heavy FOC. Stu's calculator basically put me into a .200 spine Gold Tip kinetic with a 250 grain point, which is way to stiff. I had some GT 7595's kicking around with 100 grain inserts and I threw the 250 grain points on there, and they seem to shoot pretty well. Stu's calculator says I'm about 30#'s too light with that setup, which has me concerned. Any thoughts or recommendations on a good carbon arrow set up before I go blow a bunch more money on arrows?
Thanks in advance!
I say go with your gut. The thing I would recommend most is to bare shaft test them also and go with whatever weight head flies best bare shafted. I didn't do that and ended up with weak arrows when I got to full draw. If you're struggling right now spine them stiffer. I ended up with weak arrows by the time I was comfy with the bow. I assume you have test kits? I think they're great. 3 rivers has a good heavy and regular one.
If the 75/95's show a little weak don't be afraid to build out your side plate a little bit. I find it an easy way to do initial tuning.
Love the GT's. Foot both ends and you got one tough arrow.
Thanks guys. I've been bare shafting the GT 7595s and they seem to tune just about right. Time for some more arrows.
I shoot GT7595s from a 60# martin hunter built out almost to centre, and a Stotler gamegetter (r/d carbon/'boo flatbow) 70# which is cut 1/4 before centre. arrow length is 29.5, 325gr up front total.
I agree with onewhohasfun, strikeplate build-out makes a lot of difference.
Another option is to get yourself a GT weight (50gr) and drill out the back with about a 3/16 drill. Get yourself a 1/4" hardwood dowel about 7in long, and taper the end. glue it into the weight. Now use a very thin file (like a swiss army knife one) to cut a slot in the back end of the dowel .
You have made yourself a removeable, adjustable internal footing which gives you 85gr of weight and a considerable spine stiffening. This is how Dr. Ashby builds arrows for buffalo, as it prevents breakage on heavy bone contact.
I shoot GT7595s from a 60# martin hunter built out almost to centre, and a Stotler gamegetter (r/d carbon/'boo flatbow) 70# which is cut 1/4 before centre. arrow length is 29.5, 325gr up front total.
I agree with onewhohasfun, strikeplate build-out makes a lot of difference.
Another option is to get yourself a GT weight (50gr) and drill out the back with about a 3/16 drill. Get yourself a 1/4" hardwood dowel about 7in long, and taper the end. glue it into the weight. Now use a very thin file (like a swiss army knife one) to cut a slot in the back end of the dowel .
You have made yourself a removeable, adjustable internal footing which gives you 85gr of weight and a considerable spine stiffening. This is how Dr. Ashby builds arrows for buffalo, as it prevents breakage on heavy bone contact.
Thanks Fanto. That sounds like I'm going to have to give it a try. I happen to have some of those components kicking around. Down to the shop.