Hi gang,
Here I come again looking for wisdom.
I have a BW PSA. The shelf is cut past center. This means that (I'm left handed by the way,) with a simple rest (looks like the soft part of velcro. It came with the bow!), the arrows rests dead center or off center to the left?
Some good bows (like bob lee) have shelf cut to center. Sometimes I see guy's putting a toothpick under the side plate and under the bottom patch.
What do you advise?
It's been 7 month's training almost daily now and I'm starting to get the feeling that my accuracy should be better than it is! Maybe it's just a feeling...
Help me out if you can and thanks for trying :thumbsup:
Diogo
ttt
I currently shoot a PSAX and have owned several other Widows in the past. All of them have shot great with just the rest as you describe. I have never seen the need to build our the rest or side plate. I tried a Bear Weather rest also and while arrow flight was very good I did not see that it helped my shooting so I took it off. So, with the correct arrow set up I don't think you need to build up the side plate.
It could be that your arrow set up, brace height or nock point location are off.
Also 7 months is not that long, It took me over 2years before I felt like I could shoot good enough to hunt.
Good luck
I have a lefty PSA. Most everybody has them set up pretty much the same.
I have the equivalent of a paper match under my sealskin behind the strike plate and under the rest. This serves to keep the shaft on a pivot point so that if you were to torque the handle at all there would be minimal impact on the arrow. It dosen't take much.
My brace height is also 8 5/8". Most everybody with a PSA will be within an 1/8 either way.
My bow is tillered for three under and I shoot three under so my nock setting is much higher than most who shoot split finger. It is at 7/8".
You say you think you should be shooting better. Define that. I've been shooting for 43 years now and I think I could be doing better. The trophy room might have a different opinion on that though.
Mike, Brian,
Thanks for your replies. They are very useful to me. I would like to believe my arrow/bow set up is acceptable to my shooting. I've done the bareshaft tunning to get it as it is, and bareshafts fly strait if my form doesn't fail!
My brace height is 8 1/2 and my nock point is 5/8 above square. Also shoot 3 under although (I think) the bow was tillered to shoot split fingers (bought it to a tradgang member).
I didn't mean to look cocky with the shooting better comment. Sorry for that. I believe it's a good thing to want more each day. The thing is I feel fairly comfortable with my accuracy up to 10/12 yards, longer than that... Well!! The arrows seam to gain will of their own sometimes at longer distances, even when the shot feel's right!
It will be a matter of time and training, I'm sure.
Thanks once again.
Diogo
I had a Psav for a while it was tillered for 3 under but I shot it split. It was one of the best shooting Bows I have had. Sold it because it was a little too heavy for me.
I had a Psav for a while it was tillered for 3 under but I shot it split. It was one of the best shooting Bows I have had. Sold it because it was a little too heavy for me.
Diogo,
The distance that a bow is or is not cut to or past center should not effect your accuracy as long as the arrows are properly tuned to the bow. It has been my experience that a bow cut slightly past center is more forgiving of spine issue and there for can accept a wider spine variance and be a little easier to tune.
As far as putting something under the rest and sideplate to create a pivot point, it can improve your accuracy. What this does, is create the smallest possible area that the arrow makes contact with the bow. What this does is to minimize the effect of any bow torque you may be inducing during the shot execution. I do create such a pivot point on my bows, by placing a small piece of toothpick or strip of leather under the shelf and side plate. I line this pivot point up with the deepest part of the grip. If we all had absolute perfect form then this would not be needed, but this of course is very difficult to obtain and maintain over all types of shooting situations.
You are never wrong for continuing to look for ways to improve your shooting or form. To me it sounds like you have either a form issue or arrow tuning issue to look at as the cause of accuracy (by way of your description I would lean toward tuning). Your arrow is already heading off the mark when you are releasing, either caused by tuning or form, it is just not far enough off the mark to noticed until the long shot distances. My question would be what type of arrow tuning method do you use and at what distances do you tune at. An arrow that is not properly tuned and missing its mark by a few inches at 10 yards, could be missing your mark by many inches at 20 or 30 yards. A pivot point may help to improve this, but I would look harder to find the root problem.
Chris
I use rests on my bows, because they are more forgiving, and result in more consistent arrow flight.
Curved shelf with seal fur pad and a leather riser plate with a 1/16" thick x 3/16" wide x 1/2" tall leather strip underneath. Adjust thickness of strip under riser plate as needed for consistant vertical flight.
Well, I'll try and see how I do.
Thanks gang