What do you guys use to taper your wood Douglas Fir and Sitka Spruce shafts for nocks and points? Thanks!
This is a jig I made with some help from my friends and it works great and was simple to make...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Taperingtoolimprovedagain004.jpg)
this is the "stop" set for a 10" rear taper...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Taperingtoolimprovedagain003.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Taperingtoolimproved002.jpg)
...and these are 3/8", 11/32" and 5/16" dowel pieces to use as size guages...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Taperingtoolimprovedagain001.jpg)
this is a set of 11/32" poplar arrows with the 10"x5/16" rear taper and self nocks...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Charliesarrowstaperedfinished001.jpg)
I've used this jig for poplar, Sitka spruce and Doug fir shafts, all with good results.
I have a jig set up on my disk sander. There was just a thread on this last week with a couple pics of jigs.
I forgot to mention that I chuck the shaft in an electric drill and run it into the jig to taper the shaft.
I use the Bear Paw taper tool from Kustom King for point and nock tapers.I have no tear out on sitka spruce with this tool.
A few years ago I wrote an article for TBM on tapering shafts by hand...block plane and a little finish sanding. It takes about 3-5 minutes/arrow, depending on how quickly you work. Don't know if I still have the text and photos.
I made something like this one for my disc sander.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Arrow+Taper+Guide+Block_i8044_baseitem.html
I guess I missread your question. I use a disc sander and taper jig for nock and point tapers.
Here's a link to the same question that ran a few days ago... arrow tapering thread (http://http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=122931)
I bought a block of wood from Rocky Mountain Specialty gear that is grooved for both the nock and point taper. I don't have a sander so I took an old table saw blade and glued some 150 sandpaper to it and then set up the block to be the guide.
Elevn bucks for just a piece of wood (lam wood actually) but it was well worth the price. It's the first and only taper system that I've used that is actuall satisfactory!!
So Pat, where does the reduction of wood come from? Do you spinning the shaft with a drill?
Yes, I spin the shaft with the drill and slowly feed it into the end of the jig until it hit the stop.
Gee I like the look of that jig Pat. Do you put your nock tapers on first, or after you have done your 10" taper? And do you use sonething to hold the shafts down with when sanding?
Cheers,
ak.
Al, I use self nocks and cut them in after tapering the shaft.
As I feed the shaft into the jig I place my hand over it but haven't had a problem with the spinning shaft coming out.
Pat B, What are you using to attach the sandpaper? What grit do you find works best?
Canyon, I used fiberglass mesh, double sided carpet tape that I got from ACE Hardware and 120grit sanding belt cut to fit. The 120 grip gives a pretty clean taper so only light sanding is needed after the tapering for a smooth finish.
I can't take credit for the jig. Magnus and Stringstretcher helped with it all.
Thanks!! Its very similiar to a metal jig I made. I had trouble with the paper tearing and saw dust build-up.