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Any ideas why my rest would be wearing like this? It is a MOAB, 62" and 48@30. My other MOAB is starting to do the same after a couple of weeks.
I'm shooting GT 55/75's and AD Trad heavies out of it with 145-200 up front. It originally started when I was shooting 125's on GT 55/75's. I have to replace the rest material fairly often, which isn't a big deal. I'm just curious.
Shelf wear on the outside like that is often a spine issue (too stiff) or can also be a nock point that's a "smidge" low...
Jonathan
my dad's moab is exactly the same... his arrows shoot like bullets
If your shooting right wing fletch try cock feather in.
I'm shooting left wing feathers, and I put my nose on the back of the cock feather, Rick Welch style. My nock point seems high to me, but works well. I think it's like 7/8" or so.
I'm using Martin rest material, as the bow seems to like the soft stuff better.
it is definitely an arrow issue but I wouldn't worry about it as long as your arrows are flying good and impacting the target straight on. You will spend more money trying to fin e tune your setup than replacing the rest material once or twice a year.
Roger that! I keep a good supply of rest material on hand just in case. I was just wondering what the deal was with the bald patch. Thanks for the input fellas.
Definitely a too stiff situation, I agree and have been exactly there myself.
Look at the location where the fletch touches the rest as well. It could be as simple as the leading edge of the feathers are wearing that spot. Shooting rightie, the placement of my fletch tend to do that, as well as cut my hand or glove at that general location. I have had to pick pieces of fletch out of my hand, at that location, before because of this.
ChuckC
My longbow rest material (heavy duty velcro) does the same exact thing. I shoot a Holzrichter 50# @ 28" with Beman MFX Classic 500 spine and 225 up front. I have noticed that the adhesive on the velcro 'burns' through and leaves streaks on my shafts almost at the dead middle of the length of the shaft. I thought maybe I was spined too weak, but my 400 spined classics with the same weight up front do the same thing.
What could be a rest material that wouldn't wear as quickly?
I've had this happen myself and it's usually "too stiff" Try adding another 50 grains of point weight and see if it gets better.
Mike
Too stiff arrows normaly but this can happen with too soft arrows sometimes.
yes, too stiff Id say. Ive had that type of rest wear as well, and have noticed it appear when experimenting with stiffer shafting while playing with point weight for higher FOC's. I settled on a recipe though and now Im happy and wont look back....and my arrows arent anywhere as stiff as I thought they HAD to be for some reason. I think you can drive yourself near mad if you get hung up on the idea that you have to put a titanium rod over that riser to handle the 10,000 grains of point weight you NEED to shoot. Im shooting a Zipper Nitro....60", 53# @ 28. A GT 3555 cut at 29.5", 200 grains up front, 4 4" shields, easton super 3d nock and a 7 inch wrap....my arrows weigh just under 530 grains for just a tad under 10 gpp. My arrows fly...(are you ready for this?)...PERFECT!!! And my rest wear seems to be right up the middle of my velcro rest material too.
QuoteOriginally posted by Steve O:
Definitely a too stiff situation, I agree and have been exactly there myself.
X2!
I've got 2 MOABs, 1 is 50# and 1 is 55#. I shoot GT 35/55 with 200 grn up front. No rest wear like yours. Everything fine, try some 35/55s and see what you get......Good luck.
I finally changed my rest material after changing my nocking point a few times. I switched to a piece of latigo leather with the soft side up. Shooting like a dream and lasting very well.
I think my draw length is too long for 35/55's. Everything I read says they are only 30" long, and I draw just under 31".
I may have to try the AD trad lites, I believe they come in 32" lengths.
What kind of rest are you using. I don't know how much wear it contributes but it looks like you have the hair running in the wrong direction.
Now sprinkle some talcum powder on your leather rest then shoot one arrow look for contact marks.
Arrow shaft is too stiff. Keep in mind that the feathers will correct a shaft that is too stiff so that too the naked eye, the arrow is flying straight. The shaft is slightly stiff and the back of the inside hen feather is not completely clearing the shelf hence the drag wear you are seeing. I'm willing to bet that after shooting a bit, your inside hen feather also shows wear on the edge too. If it actually clears the riser clean, your feathers should show no wear.
I actually use this as an indicator when tuning my bows. Once I start to see this wear pattern, I bump up in point weight to the next weight up (for example 175 goes to 200). This has always solved the problem.
Carbon arrows recover so fast from paradox and are so much more critical in length relative to point weight that they require more weight up front than aluminum or wood to get the shaft to flex enough to clear the shelves of bows. This is especially true with bows that are not cut to center.
I have done just about every test I have seen or heard while experimenting with carbon arrows. Its been frustrating at times but once you get the correct combination of shaft length & point weight, they are unbeatable IMHO. Hope this helps. ~Steve