Looking for opinions here not arguments.
I am relatively new to trad shooting but have been wondering lately. I am shooting a 52# recurve now and am anxiously awaiting the arrival of my Horne Brushbow 44# this week. While I don't plan on doing this right away, I would also like to purchase a recurve in the 60# range(heavy to me) for hunting. I like the idea of a heavier bow and arrow setup for hunting, especially for larger game but I also like to shoot(alot) and worry that the heavier draw weight may cause bad form or injury if I shoot too much. But for hunting(one shot) the heavier bow is appealing.
My question is this, is it a good idea to practice with a light weight bow and hunt with a heavy weight bow? Do any of you do this?
Nothing wrong with practicing with a lighter bow in the off season. However, this goes along the same line as G Fred Asbell wrote about changes and tinkering in TBM last year. I stay with my "go to" hunting bow from 2 months before the season opens.. and change or tinker with nothing, until after the hunting season is over. If I possibly can.
As stated hear many times before. Good Quality practice is much better than Quantity practice.
I have what I call my "workout bow"....it is 12 pounds heavier than my hunting bow. I shoot it once a week to strengthen my muscles. Think of it as a weight workout. My shooting with my hunting bow has improved since doing this.
I shoot the same bow all the time, but I have a buddy that shoots light all spring and summer. About a month and a half he puts his heavery limbs on and shoots them. I myself would not do this but like Steve McD said I would shoot my hunting bow 2 months. good luck
I would not recommend this, Your body and mind need to be trained for the heavy bow, flight of the arrow, etc., also when your hunting a person might be cold or not shoot as much which would compound problems. You would stand to get hurt easier if your body isn,t ready for it.
There is nothing wrong with what you have right now..... I don't think you'll see moose, elk, or grizly in Alabama. Why go up to 60#?
A better question is why do you think you NEED the extra 8# of weight. Are you planning a trip out west or to the great white north where you may need 60#+ on yer fingers?
You might be doing yourself a disservice by switching to a heavier (or lighter) bow just in time for season. You need to practice with whatever you are gonna use that year for some time before it gets "normal" for you. For deer, anything in the 40 / 50 / 60 pound range is normally considered plenty, depending on "things".
ChuckC
I don't think that I NEED the extra weight, especially for whitetails. I will be hunting with both of the bows mentioned this upcoming season. I just like the idea of a "magnum" setup I guess. Kinda like having a .243, a 30-06, and a .300 mag LOL.
I just wondered if daily practice with the lighter weight bows would be practical from a form perspective to allow me to hunt with a heavier bow. In other words, if my form is very good with a 44# bow that I can shoot all day, would this help my form on a heavy bow that I will only shoot while hunting or during short practice sessions.
I feel it is vitally important to shoot the same weight or at least within 5 pounds of the same weight for practice AND hunting. I also fell it is important to shoot many different weight bows and shoot the weight that is most comfortable for you to shoot. You should, IMLTHO,shoot the heaviest bow you can shoot comfortably. If that is 44#, so be it.A 44# bow, with a good design, a properly weighted arrow, a sharp broadhead and a properly placed shot with kill everything in North America.The only reason to shoot heavier than the upper 50s/lower 60s is to shoot REALLY heavy arrows.
It could be argued that since you're only going to be making one shot when hunting, in most cases, that you can shoot heavier than you practice with because the tax on the muscles will be less than repeated shooting requires. However I believe that part of what kenisthesiologists call muscle memory involves work level. If your muscles are very familiar with the work level of 44# and you only shoot 10# or more shortly before the season begins you are opening yourself up to a possibilty of a bad outcome from poor form and infamiliarity between body and bow. Hey but what do I know? I've only been shooting a bow for 43 years and I'm only 46 and no one pays me for my opinion. You did however ask for my(all our) opinion(s) so you got it. :bigsmyl:
One reason I ask this is that I often hear people tell new guys not to "overbow" themselves. I totally agree with that. Others will also say as C2 did that you should hunt with the heaviest bow you can shoot comfortably. I also think that is good advice. I just wonder if you can have the "best of both worlds" that is practice and instill great form with a lighter bow, and apply that form to a heavier hunting bow.
I don't know if this is realistic or not, but that is why I ask you guys.
Mark,
I'll probably get blasted, but here is what I have found. I dropped my #'s this year and have shot a 41# & 45# longbow most of the summer. I did a lot of playing around with the setup and arrows for each. I'm currently shooting (since we shot at Tannehill) my 45#CX, 45#Turkey Creek, & a 52# Harrelson longbow. I have them all shooting arrows that are very close in trajectory. Every afternoon when I get off work I shoot all three bows. I've been taking a 1st shot at between 15&20 yards and a second shot between 20&25 yards. I concentrate as if I were taking a shot at a buck of a lifetime (which I've been trying to do on every shot). I feel confident in any/all three of the bows and shoot them about the same. The key for me has been setting them up to shoot very close to the same. I have them so close that there is literally no adjustment that I have to do. Some folks will discount going to that extreme, but I know that it is important to my being able to pick any of the bows up and make the first shot a good one.
As for the lighter #'s. Again, there will be differing opinions, but it has helped my shooting tremendously. The lighter weight bows have made me a better shooter with all my bows. I think around 45# is the weight I shoot the best. I have longbows up to 60# at my draw length, but I just don't shoot as well with them. You have probably seen posts implying folks are trying to get by with the least (gear wise) that will do the job, but IMO if higher #'s is at the expense of accuracy, then shooting lower #'s (to a point) is not getting by with the least effective gear. All bows are not created equal either. That Horne bow will equal many bows of more #'s. Don't rule out hunting with it if you shoot it well and are comfortable with it.
well said eagle24 i only shoot a 45# longbow and i love it why go hurting yourself for the sake of a few pounds i see no sence in it at all. shoot what you can handle as you will be a better shot for it. just my two cents worth but dont forget the most important thing have fun doing it. :thumbsup: :archer: . wolfman
My opinion is to practice with the same bow that you hunt with. At least during the season. That bow should almost be a part of you so that you don't have to think when the time comes to make a shot on an animal.
Others may be able to maintain accuracy while shooting different bows, but I know that I can't. So it's one bow at a time for me.
Practice and hunt with the bow weight that you can control the shot with. If whitetails are what you are hunting it doesn't take a whole lot of weight to kill one. As you develop your archery muscles and form you can move up in weight if you have the desire to.
same weight..all year long...cause I hunt all the time.
:bigsmyl:
I try and use the same weight bow and arra for everything....
3D, Stumping,Practice Hunting etc....
Ditto what Ray Hammond says! I have my bows setup so that there is little difference in trajectory. That works great for short range hunting, but when the chips are down I want my bow to be an extension of my body. In other words, I want to be very intimately familiar with my hunting bow. I want it to be purely point and hit what I am looking at. I find it hard to do this with bows that differ very much. I plan to shoot my hunting bow year round. The only problem with that is the fact that I am always trading bows looking for that "perfect" fit. Luckily, I think I have now found it!!!
I shoot my hunting bow year round no getting used to a different system come hunting season. If I do use a different bow it is still in my hunting weight. Frank
Greg,
Don't worry, I'm gonna take the Horne hunting this year. I have no doubt it will be more than adequate for whitetails. In fact, shooting your CX convinced me to go with a draw weight in the low 40's. I would like to set it up with something in the 400-450gr arrow weight range.
I really think the lower draw weight will help with my TP.
Gimme a call, I've got several different carbon arrows I can send you to try.
limiting your training limits your sucess. when the moment comes you will be glad you have intimate knowledge of the equipment you will be using when taking the "once in a lifetime shot",,,,because you have trained with and have gotten to know your equipment thru countless practice sessions simulating that exact moment with that exact bow. just my 2cents(it's all i've got cuz i've lost the rest,lol).
Ok its probably been said but I figured I'd add my opinion on this.
If you want to hunt with 60# then thats fine seems like you can work up to it with the two bows you have already. Just like with any workout its better to be used to the weight your going to be pull. For example if you were used to bench press 150 lbs you wouldn't just start pressing 200. I think that is why people get hurt on heavier bows. They aren't used to the weight and don't warm up. I hunt with a 70lbs selfbow. I shoot it alot an am used to the weight. Lighter feels realy light to me. Do I need that much? No not realy but I don't mind it so I use it. 60 lbs is not to much if your comfortable with it.
Now as far as practicing light and hunting heavy. I would say see my above example. What I generaly do if I haven't been shooting in a month or two is grab my lighter bows and shoot for a while then go up in weight. You'll notice when you get tired. Always stretch if you haven't shot it a while before just shooting. Your shoulders are important and taking care of them is important.
Like others said the more time with you intended weapon the better you'll do come crunch time. Just be carefull getting up to that weight.
Again just my opinions on the matter.
same bow weight and arrow weight year around. :archer:
All of my bows are 60-63# and they all shoot the same arrow. I shoot them year round,target and hunting. As has been stated, shoot the weight that you can control your shot with.
Danny
I hunt squirrels and small game all season. For that, 3D, and practice, I shoot 50lbs. For serious hunting, I use 55lbs, and it only takes one evening of shooting to come into it just fine.
I will tell you this....past history. I know...I'm always spouting history 8^).
It was common for us to shoot field ranges all spring and summer, then switch to our hunting equipment about a month or so prior to the season. We shot target bows in the 35 to 45 pound range and they helped develop quality, repeatable form that carried over to the heavier hunting bows with little effort.
Once the bow pulling muscles are trained in proper form, stepping up a few pounds isn't that difficult...especially for the younger folks.
You'll always have those that tell you not to change weights, but my experience is quite the opposite. Shooting those target bows all spring and summer made me a better hunting shot. I still used the hunting bow from time to time during the summer on groundhogs, etc.
I have to add my 2C too.
I shoot lots of bows in lots of different weight ranges, I also hunt out west here Elk and Mulies etc. During the winter I shoot almost every day for SEVERAL hours 1000+ arrows and My fingers take a beating with my heavier bows and the cold. So during this time I shoot 20 yds or less and like the 45/50 lb bows. with a 500gr arrow. pre season and during the season I use the 55-60# range cause i TRULY believe the heavier faster bow is MUCH MORE forgiving at 30 yds plus A distance of which I shoot alot. I dont see much arrow drop till 40 yards and the compensation is minimal at best. However with the 45/50 #ers the drop, compensation and error. are MUCH greater. IN short if you are shooting at animals 20yds or less or targets keep it light, your form will not suffer and nor will your body. if your going to be shooting long and Possibly at Bigger game: Heavy arrow, and heavier weight....Just my 2C
What George said!
QuoteOriginally posted by Black Gold:
I have what I call my "workout bow"....it is 12 pounds heavier than my hunting bow. I shoot it once a week to strengthen my muscles. Think of it as a weight workout. My shooting with my hunting bow has improved since doing this.
I believe it...good tip.
I like to shoot three bows a day. And end up with the strong bow.
Hey, I'm retired. Gotta do something. :archer:
Deer season is Sept.8 and I'm thinking of just shooting my heavy bow...the one in my avatar.
George,
Did you shoot arrows with the same grains per pound weight? I have found that I get similar velocities and trajectories if I keep everything at 10-12 GPP in all of my bows..... This would make shooitng most of the summer with a lighter bow useful as long as you can safely make the jump in weight to your hunting rig...
Black Gold said, "I [shoot] my 'workout bow' once a week to strengthen my muscles."
eagle24 said, "the lighter #'s... [have] helped my shooting tremendously."
matty said, "the heavier ... bow is MUCH MORE forgiving."
hockeyref said, "I get similar velocities and trajectories if I keep everything at 10-12 GPP in all of my bows."
I agree with them. Heavier bows deliver heavier arrows more reliably. Shooting lighter bows improves form. Matching arrows to the bow makes for virtually identical trajectories -- I can't tell a difference out to 20 yards.
But, unlike what you referred to in your post, I wouldn't hunt with a bow I hadn't practiced with. A lot.
Good advice from everyone. I think the variety of answers show just how "individual" trad shooting is. No "one size fits all approach".
For a guy who's just making the switch to trad, the information on this site is priceless.
Good post here....and lots of good info....hunt safe all....Kirk
QuoteOriginally posted by pseman:
Good advice from everyone. I think the variety of answers show just how "individual" trad shooting is. No "one size fits all approach".
I think you nailed it right there Mark. What works for one person may not be agreed on by the entire crowd. You will find out what works best for you. I've had the pleasure of shooting with you......I can see that you have the talent and ability to be an exceptional traditional shooter.
I always like George's posts about stuff like this, since his advice mimicks a lot of what I was raised with.
However, the lightest legal draw weight for whitetails here in IL is 40# @ 28", which at my 32" draw length puts be at about a 52# minimum. With that in mind, I like to shoot mid-upper 50's.
Several years ago I got the bug to get back into paper shooting. So I bought a nice target bow that pulled mid-40's at my draw length. Nice bow, and I really enjoyed shooting it. But what I found when hunting season rolled around was that shooting the relatively light target bow had deconditiond me. I had problems controlling my heavier hunting bows after shooting 10# lighter for so long.
I sold the target bow that fall. These days if want to shoot a target round, I use the same weight as my hunting bows, maybe even a little heavier. Sure, my paper and 3D scores aren't as good as they'd be with lighter target equipment. But now I don't have a problem putting my first shot of the day where it counts after sitting in a cold treestand all day.
Jason....there is always exceptions to the rule. Your long draw probably didn't help any I would surmise.
Actually, I shot a 35 pound target bow from around March through August...when the State Shoot was held. Then I would go to my hunting bow. I was hunting with a 49 pound bow at the time, and it wasn't a big deal; however, as you go higher in weight, the difference would be greater. The form should still be there though and it should only need tweaked with practice.
I like to experience all bows...target, longbows, hybrids, recurves, light to heavy (my heavy). And, as I said, I hunted groundhogs in the summer, so my layoff time wouldn't be as significant as someone who didn't touch their hunting bow at all for several months.
A lighter bow is great for redescovering form that has went haywire, or simply experiencing another aspect of the sport. There's nothing that says you can't shoot them all at least a few times each week or month. Common sense helps here.
I like to shoot them all. It doesn't matter if it's 40# or 60# all it takes is some adjustment on your part. If you can shoot, you can shoot that's all their is to it. Have fun and shoot them all. On the lightest draw weight for deer it doesn't have to be 40#@28". As long as it's 40#'s at your draw length, is all that matters.
"I like to experience all bows...target, longbows, hybrids, recurves, light to heavy (my heavy)."
I think George said much what I was thinking when I started this thread. I like the idea of shooting different weight bows. I may change my mind after I try it, have to wait and see, but I like the idea of having a light, medium, and heavy setup for hunting and being able to shoot all of them effectively. I am glad to hear that some other people have been able to do this with sucess.
Mark
Absolutely George. It probably wouldn't have been an issue in my case if I weren't shooting toward the upper end of what I can comfortably control. Being 6'4" and built like a anorexic scarecrow probably doesn't help things much. ;)