Does a bow have to be tillered differently to shoot off an elevated rest?
Is not, would it be better to be tillered for split or would even tiller be better?
thanks,
ken
Hi Ken,
I've never had a problem and have owned silvertips that have been tillered for both split fingers and three under. I do however, set my rests up very close to the shelf. Here's the procedure I follow.
I use a bear weather rest and trim the bottom of the rest and some off the arm that supports the arrow. If you look at the arm I trim it right up to the bottom of the B in Bear.
I remove the sticky backing that comes on the rest and use a product you can pick up at Michaels called Peal and Stick. It's real thin and holds great. I also take a dremmel tool and remove the small protruding spot on the side plate of the rest. All this helps keep the arrow center shot. I than apply a small piece of moleskin to the rest to keep it nice and quiet.
I put velcro on the shelf of the bow and than mount the rest right down on top of the velcro.
Maybe a little more info than you asked for>>> :dunno:
Ken: A conventionally tillered bow does not need to be retillered for an elevated rest. Don't know about 3 under as I do not shoot that way, nor do you, as I recall.
Never heard of re tillering for using a rest.
Bill- actually I do shoot three under, but that doesn't sound like a problem.
When ordering a Silvertip, one of their questions on tiller is split, 3 under, or elevated rest, and that is what made me wonder. No re tillering involved.
Tim- Definetely not too much information. No such thing. What you are describing sounds like a winner to me.
I have a Silvertip on order, and wanted to be sure I could play with the idea of an elevated rest without changing the tillering specs.
Great information here, and I appreciate the experience behind it. Thanks guys.
QuoteOriginally posted by Tim:
Hi Ken,
I've never had a problem and have owned silvertips that have been tillered for both split fingers and three under. I do however, set my rests up very close to the shelf. Here's the procedure I follow.
I use a bear weather rest and trim the bottom of the rest and some off the arm that supports the arrow. If you look at the arm I trim it right up to the bottom of the B in Bear.
I remove the sticky backing that comes on the rest and use a product you can pick up at Michaels called Peal and Stick. It's real thin and holds great. I also take a dremmel tool and remove the small protruding spot on the side plate of the rest. All this helps keep the arrow center shot. I than apply a small piece of moleskin to the rest to keep it nice and quiet.
I put velcro on the shelf of the bow and than mount the rest right down on top of the velcro.
Maybe a little more info than you asked for>>> :dunno:
Great info Tim. I too have and have owned quite a few Silvertips. I now shoot off an elevated rest after Paul Schafer himself convinced me to try it when he was building me a bow back in the day. I have some that were built with rug rests, and some with elevated rests. Some were built 3 under(how I shoot now) and some built split.
I can shoot all of them either way, it doesn't seem to make a difference to me.
Thanks Ken...glad to help. Send me a pm with your cell number and I'll text you over a photo of my rest setup. I've found the rest not only gives you perfect arrow flight it also helps quiet the bow. :dunno: Maybe it comes off cleaner? I'd be more than happy to go over exactly how I have mine setup and hopefully save you some time. The most important part of my set up is to get the bow quiet and fortunately I've really got my current 60" tip zeroed in nicely.
David...
I've been shooting silvertips for quite a few years and fought the rest idea for most of that time. My son has always shot his tip off a rest and one day I changed his bow around just for giggles to see how he'd shoot off the shelf! He's a real good shot with great form. His groups increased at least a couple inches at 20 yards. He still had great flight but I believe the rest helped absorb any mistakes in his release. Since then both of our bows are setup off a Bear Weatherrest.
Hope your getting some time in the woods!
Tim
Thanks Tim. PM on the way.
It would make sense that an elevated rest does have some effect on the tiller. I had a bow that insisted on the nocking point,arrow on top, be set at 1/2" above horizontal without a rest. With an elevated rest that was 3/8" high, the nocking point remained at the original 1/2" above horizontal and it gave even better arrow flight. Three under tillers put the the center of tiller farther down from the bow rest, an elevated rest on one of those would really put it off tiller, if such a bow would then be shot split fingered.
QuoteOriginally posted by pavan:
It would make sense that an elevated rest does have some effect on the tiller. I had a bow that insisted on the nocking point,arrow on top, be set at 1/2" above horizontal without a rest. With an elevated rest that was 3/8" high, the nocking point remained at the original 1/2" above horizontal and it gave even better arrow flight. Three under tillers put the the center of tiller farther down from the bow rest, an elevated rest on one of those would really put it off tiller, if such a bow would then be shot split fingered.
I agree, it does make sense. I do not know why it isn't making a difference on my bows?
I have tried rests and gone back and forth. The bows were tillered split finger and I shot 3 under. The only thing I noticed was I almost always got better arrow fight with a elevated rest and less tuning. I even put a rest on a longbow to see if it would work.....Ya know what, it did!