I'v been shooting woodies for 18yrs. Iam wanting to try carbons. I don't understand all the sizes, different numbers with carbons. I shoot a longbow 49# at 28. 28in draw, skinny string,reflex\\deflex. I was thinking on GT 3555 shafts. I need help. Any advice?
I'm shooting a 55 at my 29.5 draw and getting good results with Easton 340 Traditional Only and Carbon Express 250 both full length and 175 grain tips with regular inserts. Somebody told me that Easton is the only one that the numbers are true to spine. You could probably get away with one of these shafts and maybe put a heavier tip up front?
The test kit from 3 Rivers worked out well for me. I ended up going with Carbon Express because at the time that was the only kit they offered.
For hunting I would recommend Carbon Express shafts. They are heavier per inch than the GT's. My bows are the same specs as yours and the Carbon Express 150's will most likely be your size shaft. I have a few bows that also shoot the CE 90's very well.
FBB has given good advice get a test kit.
The 3555's should work well. Those, or 500 spine arrows like FMJ's . CX 150's would work well too.
Experiment with tip weights, but I'd start with 200 grains up front!
I switched just a few months ago from wood.
I'm shooting a 45# whip HS.
Drawing 28#.
I'm using full length 500 beman bowhunters with a 175 grain tip.
I would go with the Arrow Dynamics trad light series shafts. You will never find an easier shaft to tune!
Good luck. I played with carbons all summer, got a lot figured out, I'm happy with how they're tuned but I still like the gentle little sound wood makes coming off the bow. So hunting season I'm back to wood. Hasn't mattered so far though, haven't had a shot so nothing listening but me when stumping.
I shoot a Bama Expi 48@28 draw about 29 1/2, I am shooting 3555s with 145pts cut full length! That arrow should work well for you, and as stated above CX Heritage 150s would work too I would think!
Another vote for Arrow Dynamics Trad Lites. Once you try them, you won't shoot any other carbon. They are absolutely the easiest to tune arrow in existence.
Carbon arrows strike fear in the hearts of some...but there is no need for it.(I used to be one of those guys)
Don`t be afraid to put some weight on the front, and don`t cut your new shafts AT ALL, until you try them.
I agree with Rufus about the sound wood arrows make when shot...it is indeed gentle. I did some experiments over the years and began squeezing automotive silicone into the insert end of the arrow. It adds weight, doesn`t seem to change spine much (like adding a bit of tip weight), AND it makes the arrow sound and feel more like a wood shaft.
I do not bareshaft my arrows anymore...I fletch one up, full length...with the tip weight I want and the approximate total weight I want. I then shoot it through paper at ranges from point blank out to about ten yards. I then cut the shaft or add weight to the tip as I think necessary, in order to get a perfect tear through butchers wrap paper.
I cut my carbons very carefully with a Dremel rotary tool, using the little disc cutter wheels. Do NOT sniff the freshly cut carbon as you would Cedar...LOL.(seriously...there is a dust created when cutting that CANNOT be good to breathe)
I use a bit of hot melt glue to temp. secure the insert. GENTLE heat applied to the field tip has never caused grief when I wanted to remove an insert. Also, I have actually started relying on hot melt as a permanent install of inserts...(not 100% permanent...have had inserts come out like this)
With your set up, I would personally start with a full length Gold Tip 35/55 and a 175 or 200 grain head. Total weight around 425 or so.
I have found a nock that is too tight is a problem carbons don`t like.
You don`t get to know every arrow as you build it like with wood, but carbons can last long enough to get a history with you.
Good luck...
Thank you Bonebuster. Alot of good stuff. I will miss the woodies. The touch,feel,smell and the PROCESS of building them.
I think bonebuster said it so well I won't even try to improve on it. However, you will see that 3355 full length with a 175 grain head will weigh a little more than what he said. About 475 grains. 200 grain head is gonna weigh about 500 grains full lenght. This is with the tradiional shaft. My 28 inch with a 200 grain head is 480 grains. It will be a hard hitting quick setup for sure. God bless
AD TRAD LITES are my favorites and I have tried them all.
:archer2:
Beman MFX Classic 500's with 100 grain brass insert and 125 to 200 grain broadhead(depending on arrow flight) would work well. I am shooting 29" MFX Classic 500's with 100 grain brass insert and 140 grain tips very well at 27" draw and 47 to 56 lb longbows.
Depends on the bow and your form, get a test kit.
AWPforester was correct...I just weighed my sons full length Gold Tip Traditionals 35/55, with a 175 grain head, and they come up at 485 grains.
He is shooting them out of a Predator recurve. He draws to a solid 28", and it 49 lbs at that draw. :campfire:
I've found bamboo arrows to be far stronger than cedar.....might give them a try. I wrap the shaft with silk bead cord, and superglue, just behind the head, and that keeps the shafts from splitting if/when I hit a rock.
Don't forget that in the arrow tuning process, especially with GT shafts or others with a .246 inside dia., you can attach a nock insert to add weight to the back of the arrow. This allows you to add or subtract weight to both ends of the arrow for tuning............Dave
Hello BowMike on your bemans what of feathers are you useing?
Thanks again for all the help. I talked to RMSGear and Iam going down to their shop for more hands on help. It sounds like it will be worth the hr. drive.
29" Heritage 150's with 100grain brass insert and 125 heads should be pretty close if not perfect in weight and spine...
I have a skinny SBD string on another bow that used that same arrow setup before the string and I had to bump to heritage 250's with everythign else the same so yeah a carbon tuning kit will help..
In my experience, the spine and length of the arrow matter far more than point weight.
Best advice I can give you is try to find one that is too weak and start working from there. It's very easy to find one that is too stiff.
I've used Carbon Express Heritage for years. They are relatively cheap and tough. Some have been refletched multiple times. the 150 spine with at least 145gn tip should work great for you.
The 3555's shoot well for me and I have 47# bows, I have a 28" draw and I use 225 grains up front. Bonebusters advice is very sound.
the one thing you didn't not mention is what you are thinking for points. if you're looking into the carbons to try the increased or extreme FOC...then you 'might' need heavier than the 35/55s as adding a lot of weight to the front end changes the dynamic spine quite a bit.
personally I'm shooting a 56# widow and 58# homemade longbow and I'm, shooting vapor carbonwoods 3000s which are .400 spine (equal to the GT 55/75), with 350 grains up front. 100grain brass insert, 125 grain WW head and 125 grain screw in adaptor. and the .400 spine at 29 inches shoots great out of both bows.
I just ordered GT trads for the first time (today) so I'm gonna have to experiment a little on whether that weight up front is gonna react the same on the different shaft. we'll see.
If you are going carbon, look at GoldTips. I find them to be the toughest carbons. Check out the Kinetics XTs. Heavy and tough in a small diameter shaft.
In the standard diameter (.296") they offer point inserts that allow for adding additional weight.
It's a tough call. Carbon is straight but you have to check for cracks and dings. Cedar is not really straight or consistant in weight when compared to carbons, but they fly really well and I just love the smell of them as I taper the points.
Britt, I shoot about the same # you and I use a 28" 3555 gt with 225 gr.s up front. Shoots great.
QuoteOriginally posted by JamesKerr:
I would go with the Arrow Dynamics trad light series shafts. You will never find an easier shaft to tune!
Much agreed :thumbsup:
3555s will work for you, they are tough shafts.
If you use 100gr brass inserts you will suffer fewer breakages because the inserts are much longer and this seems to help.
I have a 55lb recurve and used to use 3555s. they are underspined for a cut to centre 55# bow even with 130gr points. On the other hand they are perfect on a 60lb longbow (predator) which is cut before centre, with 225 up front. centre cut makes a huge difference. If you want to shoot roughly 500gr or less start with 3555 if you want to shoot over 600gr maybe full length 5575s
3555 should work.
I am also an AD Trad fan. The Trad Lites or Hammerhead Lites are very spine tolerant and shoot very well out of bows in your weight range. If you don't believe the rest of us, ask Terry Green. There are lots of other good carbon arrows, but most of them are much more trouble to tune.
Allan
Hey Britt, not sure if you will see this or not.
If you do, try Stu Millers Spine Calculator.
OR.....go to 3Rivers they have a simple version of his spine calculator. It is an amazing tool. I have several bows including one LB and use the same shafts for all of them.....all I do is change the weights/length. For example I use Gold Tips Traditional and Carbon Express Heritage - I can use them on any bow I have just by varying the weights and length - for hunting or 3D/target etc. Peace
Hey Britt, not sure if you will see this or not.
If you do, try Stu Millers Spine Calculator.
OR.....go to 3Rivers they have a simple version of his spine calculator. It is an amazing tool. I have several bows including one LB and use the same shafts for all of them.....all I do is change the weights/length. For example I use Gold Tips Traditional and Carbon Express Heritage - I can use them on any bow I have just by varying the weights and length - for hunting or 3D/target etc. Peace
Not me, I have Carbon arrows and to me my wood shafts have better penatration and I can build them as nice as I want, custom.