I've been tuning some arrows for my Tall Tines and discovered that when I do a lot of shooting I get some spots on my hand where the handle irritates it a little. So, I studied it a little before I started sanding, but I tweaked it some to settle my hand on into the grip.
The wrist was too high for me and I took some of that down to start with. I have not held another Tall Tines, but I imagine what I done was to make it into a "medium". Then just worked on the front of the riser to settle each finger in it's natural place. I like a grip instead holding loose, not too tight but a grip.
Anyway, it helped. I thought you might want to see some shots to see that I didn't ruin it. :D
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8466/8094807598_5d2f9994cc_c.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8326/8094801511_910631ed9f_c.jpg)
This shows it in my hand held rel loose so you can see. One place that was irritated was the top of my thumb joint. You can tell I raised it up a little.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8475/8094805918_6d11a3443f_c.jpg)
I thought long and hard about this before doing it. I'm not recommending that anyone make changes to their bow themselves. It's just that I intend to have this bow till I drop. Plus I have some experience shaping handles.
Nicely done the right grip is everything.
Nicely done Lin.
I have a buddy that will file down on a Black Widow then send it right back to them and pay to get it refinished.
I about lost my mind when I saw him take a bow from the mail and start filing away at it before even shooting it.
He says, IT'S ALL IN THE GRIP!
Looks excellent! You did a really nice job.
Lin, that's perfect! If I were looking for anyone other that a bowyer to work on shaping my grip, you are the guy I would have called. Yes, you have had just a little experience shaping grips. In fact, I would say you have "cutting edge" skills in that department!!! :saywhat:
Allan
Warranty voided :knothead:
Very nice. Looks to me like it was originally made that way.
Looks good to me!
I am really starting to fancy a Tall Tines for myself lately. Nobody seems to have a bad word to say about them.
Never would have know you messed with it.
That looks really good Lin.
Thanks guys.
I figure it would void the warranty. No problem.
This is no knock against Brian's work either. I'm thankful he chose to leave it big. It's hard to put it back on. I'm getting to know this bow and I really like it. I have another set of limbs ordered for it. That should tell you that I like it. :)
Great job! Fine tuning a custom bow is good sense if its not perfect for you.Everyone is SO different its near impossible to get a bow to perfectly fit each individual unless they are standing there as you build it. If its not exactly how you want it, definitely figure out how to get it that way.
I personally don't worry about warentees myself. Its more important to me to have that bow dead on how I want it.
Again, you did one heck of a fine job.
On a bow you like and are going to keep I think you should have it the way you feel comfortable....I have done the same thing.....! :thumbsup:
When I saw the title and your name, I imagined you hard hand-forged a switchblade to install in the riser! :dunno:
Very nice job, and the ultimate in personalization!
" I have some experience shaping handles..."
A midge of understatement!
Looks to be an excellent outcome, especially since it's improved the grip for you. I like the finger grooves as I also lightly grip my bow.
Very nice.
Great work. Could you explain how you refinished it after the alterations?
Nice job. I have modified several of my bows. Makes it really custom then.
I also have a TT and performance wise they are hard to beat, but as you my grip is too high for me as well. I have pondered sanding on it but I'm Skeeeeered to do it. I suppose I should send it out to do it as it hangs on the wall and really needs to be fixed for me as it is a shame it gets no tree time.
I too believe that having a custom grip shape is one of the key ingredients to accuracy. Having your hand slide into the slot the same every time and be repeatable, you are going to shoot better.
But....This has to be said here, so i might as well be the guy to say it.....Besides voiding a warranty, you may be endangering yourself and those standing next to you while you are shooting by grinding on a riser grip.
In this case you have an Action Wood riser which is pretty stout riser material, and will most likely have no strength issues. But.... and i say BUT..... There are a lot of bow risers out there made from solid hardwood and laminated hardwoods with accent stripes in key locations for strength. Often times the back of the riser has a piece of fiberglass running from limb pad to limb pad that is only .040 in thickness that holds a lot of strength. if you sand into that it's like cutting your safety harness line half way through and hoping it will still save you if you fall.
The bottom line is this isn't something i would recommend doing yourself at all. Removing a wee bit of material in the wrong spot can make a bomb out of your riser in short order.
Kirk
Yes Kirk, I understand that and would never touch a riser other than these circumstances. I ordered this riser with diamondwood knowing it's characteristics and did not take enough material from the narrow parts to affect it's strength.
I totally agree with you when it comes to solid exotics and any fiberglass materials. If it had been anything other than diamond wood I would have sent it back to Brian for the alteration if at all.
I'm also thinking of checkering the grip where the palm rests.
Lin, if you checker it, I would suggest the flat topped, English style checkering rather than "nicely pointed up diamonds". I just picked up a 28ga Browning pump and I can't shoot it without a glove on my left hand. Those diamonds are so sharp they hurt. My Ruger .375 H&H has softer topped diamonds and is comfortable. My old Husqvarna 30-06 carbine has really flattened diamonds and it still helps me hang on to it without being uncomfortable.
Thank you Ron. That is really good to know. I'll see if I can find some examples and study them.
Hey Lin,
It's quite obvious your alteration was done with a good deal of skill. My post was primarily directed to the general audience here that may be tempted to grind on their grips rather than consult their bowyer's.
Most people have no idea how much pressure is applied to the riser of a bow, and just by altering the shape a wee bit in the wrong spot could cause a failure..... even using action wood or diamond wood has it's limitations.
hey guys...I'd be interested in that flat checkering technique myself and possibly find out what tool to use. That nicely pointed checker design is brutal on your hands. I've been playing with stippling rather than checkering because of it. Kirk
Thats some really nice work,I can see how that would help.
I'm just guessing here, as I've never been any good at checkering, but I would think you could do a normal checkering job and then flatten the very tips of the diamonds just a touch with some 400 or 600 paper on a semi hard backing block like an eraser and achieve a more even result.
I'd sure as heck try it on a practice piece of scrap before I attempted to do it on my bow grip. But I'm betting you do that already on any new idea you come up with for your knives, Lin.
Kirk, I understand completely. I would not want anyone to just start filing on their riser without regard for the limits of the materials. Thank you for pointing out the cautions.
Ron, I see what you mean. It sort of looks like a double spacing. Maybe it's just shallow. I have a set of checkering tools but I might not have that cutter. I think I can get close though. The picture helped. Thanks
I've done some gunstock checkering on several rifles. To get those sharp diamonds the pattern has to be deepened till it comes to a point at the intersection of the diamonds. Untill you achieve that, the diamonds are flat topped. Just keep the pattern nice and even and stop when you are satisfied with the way it looks/feels. :thumbsup:
I thought that might be the case. I should get started on it over the weekend and will show the progress along the way. Thank you for your information.
Where do you purchase your checkering tools at guys? I haven't played with that yet, but many guys have asked about it. i sure like the looks a lot better than stippling. kirk
I bought mine from Brownells many years ago. I had to wipe dust off the box to look inside. I just never got around to it but I think it's time.
Midway USA has them also.(Probably any retailer that caters to "gun-nuts") www.midwayusa.com (http://www.midwayusa.com)
Search checkering tools
I think I would stay with the lessor l.p.i. (lines per inch). The smaller (more lpi) can get troublesome,although I have never completed a pattern with flat tops - so the greater lpi MAY work just as well.
I've started the checkering. I'll try to post some pics as I get somewhere on it.
OK, I'm trying to get familiar with these tools. I got the border roughed in and started on the cross checkering. I have to get the lines evened out in depth. It shows a "run out" or two and it's all still dusty but it's a start. I think I can fix most of the problem areas. I have a ways to go so I better not speak too quick. Again, I'm just getting the feel attempting to "track the lines into their place.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8055/8105890093_1657d68b14_c.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8472/8105889671_ef2d7d61a1_c.jpg)
That is why I buy stuff. I marvel at all you craftsmen :notworthy:
I still want this hatchet...
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/osminski/Post%20Pics%202012/e5e5461626409bedd00eeac8b0972a90.jpg)
Well I can see what's wrong right off - it is in the wrong hand??
For a lefty like me that is. Nice work Lin. Not unlike the perfect handles you put on your knives.
Bob Urban
Looking good so far .......... you have a lot more confidence than I would, not having done anything for a while, jumping right on your Tall Tines!
Just a suggestion, in future leave your border till last ... that way you can cover up some/all of those over-runs.
Are you going to leave the diamonds flat, or come to a point?
Thanks Bobby.
Wow. That's a great point. I already started with the border. I'll have to clean it up after getting the cross hatching done. Here is a short video clip of the checkering progress. I am completely untrained at this so I am feeling my way along.
Checkering Video Clip Link (http://www.flickr.com/photos/69503114@N06/8106525055/)
WOW, I thought you had done this before!
Interesting.... not having played with that at all, i had pictured more of a leather tooling process using a stamp or chisel type tool and a mallet.
So what do you think so far Lin?
Keeping in mind that the material you are working with has more of a consistent grain characteristic than many hardwoods,how would that tool work on Ebony or bubinga or Iron wood?
Are you ready to go into business yet? Looks like a labor of love thing to me.
I literally laughed out loud Kirk. :biglaugh:
What do I think? This is one of those things that when you jump in you cant turn back.
It's really not that bad. The diamond wood is a little prone to flake, but not bad. Small flakes, nothing big. Probably better than some solid woods. I think it works as good as it does because of the near total glue saturation. I'm sure African Blackwood would work very well and some other oily dense woods. Anything soft, forget it. But only because the checkering would not last unless you had stabilized it first. If I stay with it, I think it will be acceptable but certainly not a good example of checkering.
From what little I know about checkering, the harder the wood the better, at least involving woods that are usually used in gunstocks. Have never heard/seen anything about woods such as Ironwood. What's the hardest wood out there? :dunno:
Ironwood is good stuff, but I would use the medium figure for checkering. I would imagine the highly burled woods would hold hidden dangers to checkering. Desert Ironwood is found in SW US and Mexico. One of the most beautiful woods.
I think I need to go back with a single groover(OK... I dont know the name) and smooth the lines a little and the border corners.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8334/8107294368_19eb697a2d_c.jpg)
I love my Talltines grip...thanks for sharing.
Awesome job Lin! I have been considering trying my hand at it but keep chickening out!
Thanks for the inspiration :)
Lin, that is some amazing work for the first time trying it. :thumbsup: :clapper: :clapper:
Lin, that is some amazing work for the first time trying it. :thumbsup: :clapper: :clapper:
I'm afraid to try it now Lin.... one of my customers might want it done on their bow and i can't very well charge $200 for checkering. :eek:
hell... i doubt i could make wages at that price. :thumbsup:
Do you wait to do this after the finish is applied, then touch it up with a couple light coats? or do it while the wood is raw?
You are killing me here... i know i gotta try this now. %^&*^#@!$^&^$%^!11@@
Lin,
I can send you my Tall Tines riser if you want more practice!!
Plus that way you can see how phenolic tools compared to dymondwood. :)
That really looks great! :thumbsup:
Thanks. Like I said, this checkering job has some issues, but I can tell that it has heleped the grip a lot. All in all, it's a good exercise.
Looks great Lin
What are you going to do for a final finish ?
Thanks Joe, I'll probably use Danish oil. I'm not sure really if it will soak in or just sit on the surface. The material is so full of glue and all. It would be best to use it either way, I'm sure.
Lin, not sure about other brands, but Gunline has a tool called "pointer long fine cut" which is used to smooth cuts. It has teeth much like a fine toothed file.
Congrats Lin,great work!
I re-stocked a rifle many years ago and planned to do my own checkering. I bought the tools (much too fine I realized later). Made up some scrap pieces of walnut with oil finish and started practicing. After many attempts, I concluded I was not intended to be a checkerer. That took real guts to try it out on your new bow, but obviously, talent is talent. My lack of talent will always remain lack of talent.
You going to try an oval of fine checkering on one of your knife handles next?
I am thoroughly impressed!
Ron
I have done some checkering....and for your first attempt...that is outstanding :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Thank you guys.
Ron, One reason I spent a large part of the weekend doing this is that I do plan to use it on a knife soon. The curves on the bow made it a more difficult, I hope, so the by designing the handle with flattish sides I'm hoping to do a better job. Here is the bow finished. It's not perfect. It has a scratch or two here and there.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8194/8109894262_a89e85d890_c.jpg)
Once again....very nice, you have some amazing talent!!
Thats awesome.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Very nice Lin. Can't wait to see a hero shot with you,it and a critter.
Chris
Lin, that's as good as a lot of stuff (can't say guns:-) that used to come out of the factories where they had pros doing it. And you're right. The curves triple the difficulty.
Great job!
Ron