This comes up from time to time and I just got a PM asking about it so I'm putting up some pictures and explaining how I've been doing it.The jig has been described before in various configurations so I won't go into how to construct,too much.
Mine was made using rollers that came with a cutoff saw.You can make an all wood one using blocks with a "V" cut,rather than rollers.My rollers are 8" apart.From the front roller to the reference mark,you only need enough distance so that the roller clears the back of the broadhead and any external footing.Mine is set back to accommodate a Grizzly broadhead and a footing.
The jig doesn't have to be fancy to work.I should say,I used to always spin mine on the tip,and then try to remove the "wobble".It always was a challenge for me and I knew,results weren't always perfect.Many years later I built the jig and after using it awhile,I went back and check some of my old arrows.They were worse than I thought.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/DSC_0001-4.jpg)
I first start by establishing an accurate reference mark.I take one of the exact arrows that I will be aligning broadheads on.I screw in a new field point that I believe has a true,centered and sharp point.You can double check this by rolling the arrow on the rollers and watching the point.I press the point into the piece of masking tape I put on the front of the jig for that purpose.
I then use a fine point marker or ball point pen on the mark to make it easy to see.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/DSC_0002-2.jpg)
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/DSC_0003-3.jpg)
I next mount my broadhead on the adapter.If you like a certain orientation like a horizontal or vertical blade,line that up before gluing and make a mark on your shaft or footing.That will give you a quick reference point so you don't have to fumble with that when you need to be concentrating on the tip alignment before your glue locks up.
After gluing on the broadhead,I seat it firmly by pressing the point down on the jig's oak base.Then I put the arrow on the rollers with the blade vertical and check tip alignment with the reference dot.You can see it is slightly off.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/P1020466.jpg)
I just tweak to bring it to the dot.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/P1020467.jpg)
Now I turn the shaft 90 degrees so the blade is horizontal and check again.You can see it is slightly off.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/P1020468.jpg)
Again,just tweak it back to the dot.At this point,it is a good idea to go back and check vertical,in case you disturbed it.I just go back and forth a couple times to check vertical and horizontal alignment.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/P1020469.jpg)
Once the tip is aligned to the dot,then turned 90 degrees and aligned again,it should spin perfectly.The system is pin point accurate-or at least,pen point accurate.
For me at least,it is more accurate than the way I used to spin them and for sure,it is quicker.There is no guess work.Once aligned,you just need to set the arrows aside,where the broadhead can't touch anything till the glue sets up or cools.I make a practice not to shoot any of these for 24 hours,just to make sure the glue is well cured.
Anytime I hit game or dirt,that arrow goes back on the jig to check alignment,before resharpening.
I prefer a tanto point to a chisel point because with a well centered tanto,I can align the head as well as check alignment after shooting.Also,remember that when you go to align heads on a shaft of different diameter,the reference dot needs changed.It will be higher or lower,depending.That is why the masking tape is used.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/P1020473.jpg)
very awesome tip..thank you for sharing ..I also do that as well and also use my G5 tool to square up the carbon which you can grind away some of the carbon to help align your broadheads either horizontal or vertical by screwing in your broadhead then make reference marks on shaft and use the G5 to grind away material then screw in your broadhead and see that you are closer to what ever angle to align your head..keep repeating until you get get it to where you want..if you dont have a G5 you can glue some sandpaper to the wall of the aligner as well
Very good info,here,thanks
Where can you get rollers like that?
can get rollers like that at Home depot or Lowes and Ace hardware I have seen them there
Great How-To and post, Jim. This is an important subject, too. Your roller board is nicer than mine, but for someone in a hurry, some crossed nails will work. I made this one many years ago and it gets the job done. I wrap the nails with tape so they don't scratch the shaft.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Fletcher610/PA150109.jpg)
That's a great point Fletcher.It doesn't have to be fancy.It can be two pieces of plywood with "V" notches,two short pieces of 3/4" or 1" angle with "V" notches or whatever you can come up with.You just need to have the two "V's" and vertical wall for the reference dot,all mounted on the same rigid base.
I've been doing it like this for years. It sure beats the spinning the arrow method and trying to guess which way to adjust the head.
I use an old Groves arrow straightener I've had for 30+ years for the rollers.
Thank you Jim for bringing this up! I've seen post on this in the pass , but due to whatever reason continued to do the spin method that toook hours and usually I would wind up with a crick in my neck and a headache :knothead: I read this last night and determined in the morning I would try it out. I first made a jig using the cross nails as i didn't have any rollers handy. I then sharpen my new Simmons Tiger shark and using a G5 ADS tool trued up my inserts and started the spin alignment. Wow within about 30 minutes I had my 4 arrows spinning true :bigsmyl: don't know if i'll even brother with the rollers now as I had such great result with the simple crossed nails jig, Thanks again and my Neck thanks you :goldtooth:
you made it way easier than how I was doing it,, Thanks
I struggled with it too and I'm embarrassed for how many years.I could tell where it needed tweaked but it was all trial and error.Just having the shafts all held the same and a simple reference point to tell you where it is off and by how much,cuts out all guesswork and just makes it go quickly.
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Hah, did not see the original date. Great tutorial.
That is an awesome system! I just started shooting stingers this year some, and I have had a heck of a time getting them just right after taking them apart to resharpen them.
Thanks!
Bisch