So being new to archery, i picked up some gold tip 3555 traditional wood grain arrows, and assuming all arrows are the same lenght, didnt get them cut to lenght specific for my draw. I brought them back to have them cut, but the guy at the countr said most recurve shooters, dont cut the and shoot them at the full 30" length. Is this guy correct, or completly out in left field? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Hello there, it looks like your just starting out in Traditional archery, There is way to much to list here and much more information needed to answer your question as to the length of arrows you need for "YOU". Here is a link that will help you out.
http://www.tradgang.com/docs/trad.html
Once you check this out you will still have a million questions, ask away!
Also it may be best for you and the fastest way to get a set of matched arrows is to get a hold of one of the sponsors here that make arrows and they will ask you all the right questions and make you a matched set for you and your bow.
As you gain knowledge you'll probably learn to distrust the shop guys... or at least most of them.
Guy
Well i saw on 3 rivers, that your arrow Should extend between 1 to 2 inches past the end of the shelf at full draw. I was just wondering if that is what most of you guys are doing, or are you leaving you arrows longer. Again, im new to archery, im just trying get a set of arrows that will work for me, without having to spend a fortune for a custom set.
Lucas- I see you are from Colorado. What part? If you are near the Denver area or can make to, go to Rocky mountain specialty gear. Take you bow in and they will answer any and all questions you have about arrows. Some of the bestin the business.
Length is determined by a number of factors some are fixed and some are prefrence. Draw length, spine, shooting style, head weight, total weight, etc.. all play a role.
Starting out I wouldn't cut them. I would be looking for information about setting up a bow/arrow combination and how spine affects arrow flight.
Rob
as a shop owner ; I don't understand the comment about "distrusting" the shop guys....just saying
as a shop owner ; I don't understand the comment about "distrusting" the shop guys....just saying
As a shop owner and bow/arrow maker of many years I would say it depends on the shop and the experience of the staff and owners.
I would agree with most who would say that you want about an inch or a little more for safety sake on the draw - especially with hunting points.
I would also say that the closer to back of the bow that the arrow is cut, the better the aim point and performance of the arrow.
On my competition targets bows, I leave only about 1/2" over the rest - which leaves the arrow behind the back of the bow.
On my hunting and primitive self bows I leave about 1" of shaft from the BOP over the back of the bows.
My advice is to get some training/advice from a competent and personable archer - preferably a certified trainer. You can get more advice, both bad and good, than you can shake a stick at.
pumatrax, going by my own experience and the experience of many I know and many I have seen in this forum, it's the rare shop that has employees who know anything about traditional archery.
Most shops sell compounds, that's their bread and butter and that's what they know how to work on. The traditional bow is different and many of those guys just aren't educated on them.
If you and the guys who work for you know traditional bows, then I'm happy and I thank you for being there.
Guy
Most shop guy's don't have a clue. Keep them full length and just tune with point weight after you get used to the bow and have good form you can shorten and and point weight to compensate if needed. Just remember you can always cut but can't add back.
Arrow length is dictated by how long your arrow needs to be for it to be tuned with your bow.
I cut my arrows to 31-3/4", taper the tail 1/2" for a nock and the front 3/4" for a broadhead or other point.
But then I"m 6'3" tall and draw a full 30-1/2" BOP so I am using the whole arrow with 1/2" for "safety" with the broadhead shoulder.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/Stumpkiller17APR11-1.jpg)
Many shooters would be surprised to have a photo taken from the side. ;-)
Shooting longer just slows it down when it is properly spined wood.
Longer arrows reduce effective spine, so it can be a tuning method. Or de-tuning if misused.
Arrow length can be governed by several things, but to get to where you can answer this question, you will need to become proficient in tuning your bow and arrow shaft to each other.
You will need to understand the archers paradox, and how your riser is cut in relation to the center line. You will need to have an idea of your tip weight in relation to what you're going to shoot at, (animal or target)
Understand the different shaft spines and how your bow reacts to them. Shooting style can also effect shaft length, for instants, gap shooter sometimes like a longer shaft, to give them a smaller gap.
There are so many elements to the equation that only YOU can determine what that correct length is. And if a person behind the counter tells you any different, then you will know your talking to the wrong person.
Start by learning to tune bare shafted.
My draw is 28.5, arrow length is 30.75. It took me 2 years before I found an arrow spine and length that me and my bow was really comfortable with.
This is just my humble opinion, I could be wrong.
Good luck on your journey!