Gettin ready to glue some green razorheads onto adaptors for my carbon arrows. I normally use ferul-tite for glueing my broadheads onto the adaptors, but have had some pull out in targets before. Anyone use anything else with good results? I have been considering a two-part expoxy.. :dunno:
I've been having the same problem lately, so I'm interested in what others have to say as well. :confused:
Me three.... I thought I must be doing something wrong. My problem is that the broadheads won't come off the adapter they just spin in place!
I like the 5 minute JB weld........
Gorilla glue.
QuoteOriginally posted by buckeyebowhunter:
Gettin ready to glue some green razorheads onto adaptors for my carbon arrows. I normally use ferul-tite for glueing my broadheads onto the adaptors, but have had some pull out in targets before. Anyone use anything else with good results? I have been considering a two-part expoxy.. :dunno:
I use "Bohning Iron Insert".
I switched to the glue Big Jim sells and have had NO problems since.
Good Luck
A lot of folks swear by regular craft type hot glue out of a glue gun. It is less brittle for sure.
Ive never had a problem with FerulTite but I will still try something different when the stick I have is spent.
Same problem with my razorheads and ferrel tite . I've tried crafting glue didn't work. So today I said the heck with it, found the smallest drill bit I had drilled thru the head and the adapter, found a nail that fit snug, clipped it and pounded it flat on both sides. Took me only a couple of minutes and they don't come off anymore. I only do it to my practice heads though.
Kimsha Quick-Stick works really well. I have been using it for 10 yrs. or more. It is less brittle than Ferr-L-Tite, much stickier if you will. I wouldn't go the epoxy route as it does not allow for flexibility i.e. removal of the broadhead, JMO. I see in 3 Rivers, there is a new Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex specifically for carbon arrows, it has a lower melting point, probably like the Kimsha, making it gooier/stickier.
All suggestions above will work fine, but for a hot glue, I think the Kimsha is a better choice.
Good luck!
Kris
JB weld
Hot melt craft glue.
Never a release on my BHs. Even the ones I wiggled out of trees. :o
I really like Easton's hot melt. It holds well and if you need it to be it is heat reversible.
Never had any problems with Ferrule Tite when hot melting heads to adapters. I clean the adapters with 91% Iso to remove any film or oil. Apply enough hot melt, heat well and push the head on.
Now, the smaller or shorter BHA that Bear Razorheads need, I would use JB Weld or some form of epoxy. Too much Hot Melt and it could "push forward" when heated and head applied. This will make it difficult to install bleeder blades.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bud B.:
Hot melt craft glue.
Never a release on my BHs. Even the ones I wiggled out of trees. :o
same here never had a point come off or an adpt fail. works great for me :thumbsup:
JB weld here too.
Gorilla glue lately.
Always use two part epoxy, have to heat a little more to remove but easily done, just removed a bunch of bear heads the other day.
I also use two part epoxy and never had a issue with it.
Can heads glued with two part epoxy be removed with heat?
QuoteOriginally posted by buckeyebowhunter:
Can heads glued with two part epoxy be removed with heat?
Yes, but have a cup of cool water nearby to cool the BH. I know it probably doesn't harm the hardness/temper of the BH, but the water eases my mind.
I had the same issue with Ferul-Tite. I now use a stick of hot melt sold by Black Widow. It's not quite as hard/brittle as Ferul-Tite and I've not had an issue since I switched to it. I sand the inside of the broadhead and clean it with acetone before I glue them up.
QuoteOriginally posted by joe skipp:
Never had any problems with Ferrule Tite when hot melting heads to adapters. I clean the adapters with 91% Iso to remove any film or oil. Apply enough hot melt, heat well and push the head on.
Now, the smaller or shorter BHA that Bear Razorheads need, I would use JB Weld or some form of epoxy. Too much Hot Melt and it could "push forward" when heated and head applied. This will make it difficult to install bleeder blades.
I think that may be part of my problem. I'm trying to get short 75 grain steel adapters to stick to 145 grain Snuffers. I'm not totally convinced there's enough glue to hold them. Plus they are a little hard to get to spin true without a little wobble. Maybe just me though.
God Bless, Steve
No glue will work if furrel inside is not clean.
Also not the fault of the short adapter....not that much mass for a lot of glue on the narrowing end of the longs. Plenty enough glue if done correctly with the shorts if all is clean and quality glue is used.
Clean inside of head and adapter with acetone, then jb weld.
I love Quick Stick Hot Melt. I used a small hand saw to cut it in half and put it in an electric melting pot. I plug it in, heat it up, use it, unplug it, let it cool, then put it away for the next time I use it. For me, it has been much stronger than Ferrule Tite and it remains flexible instead of getting brittle. Seems like I break fewer carbons while using it...maybe a shock absorber?
5minute epoxy works, just remember to take sandpaper and rough up the insert and the inside of the broad head to make a rough surface for the epoxy to fill.
QuoteOriginally posted by Kris:
Kimsha Quick-Stick works really well.
Kris
Best stuff I have used.
ron w said it...JB WELD. I love the stuff!
I have been using a Two Part Epoxy / JB Weld looking stuff at the Fire House that we use to stick reflectors to the Street , so we can locate Fire Plugs at night. The Positive, never ever loosens, ever. Negatives, comes only in 1 Gallon Buckets. :)
Sutty
Proper prep is assumed. With any glue or finish a proper preparation of the surfaces is a must, regardless of the application i.e. crown dip,house painting, floor finishes to gluing heat tiles on the space shuttle.
I use loctite!!!!