With my current arrows I'm measuring 33" from nock point to the shank on the 250gr fp. The fp itself is adding about 1.5" to the arrow length.
I need to add an additional 2" to my arrows so I can use broadheads, without them hitting my hand or the bow back.
So all in all I need to add 3-3.5" to my current arrows. Is there an established way to do this with carbons?
I need to modify my current arrows, I'll be going with longer bamboo arrows in the future, but those won't be in the cards before fall turkey season.
Holy wingspan Batman!!
What carbons are you shooting and what is the bow?
Post up a picture of you at full draw please?
Shazam! You need to give up archery and take up basketball player.
I think he shoots a horsebow or something with r-e-a-l long draw.
Better yet here's a video, This isn't my bow in the video, mine is a horsebow I just finished, and I don't have a good video of it, but at full draw I'm pulling the tip of the arrow onto the crook of my thumb and forefinger.
Arrows are Easton storm uncut carbons
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9ziYJ5vV6M
This is a video of the horsebow, but I'm not at full draw here, and the bow isn't finished.
I was just using this video to check nock point and tillering so don't go by this....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SuZH5w3Mum4
I am looking at doing the same thing, but for different reasons.
My plan is to find an AL shaft or tubing that fit's tightly inside the carbon. Using your requirements I'd cut a 6" length of the Al shaft and slip it inside the carbon shaft.
Cut a sacrificial 3.5" piece of another carbon shaft. Clean up the ends and epoxy/glue it to the original carbon over the internal al sleeve.
Then foot the whole assemebly with another pice af Al shaft on the outside about 1 to 1-1/2" longer than joint.
May I suggest, an old method to determine draw length. IMO it is too easy to draw longer than necessary. The most common arrow length is between 27 and 29" and the shorter arrow is less affected by wind in flight. You will find it very difficult to find arrows beyond 32" or spined for your bow.
Have someone mark the arrows with a pencil when you put the nock at a point between your arms in the center of your chest, when you extend both arms and fingers; mark where the tips of your middle finger(s) are on the arrow shaft. A wood yard stick will also work, or a bare shaft. Close your eyes, and do not try to over-reach. You should be comfortable when reaching forward. Do itt three times and then average the three lenghs measured.
maybe try an arrow stretcher, they should be on the same shelf as the turn signal fluid and the sky hooks??? :laughing: :laughing:
QuoteOriginally posted by huntmaster80:
maybe try an arrow stretcher, they should be on the same shelf as the turn signal fluid and the sky hooks??? :laughing: :laughing:
I'm the highest bidder on one on FleaBay right now...
I watched your videos and understand your situation. I probably would try a hardwood dowel cut 3" longer than the splice. Epoxy with 12 hr epoxy. I might try beveling the end of your arrow shafts, to fit inside a bevel on the splice. I think an external footing, would create a bump when drawing.
The hardwood dowels can be found in many sizes. If it is necessary to build up a dowel a fraction at a time, wrap the dowel with painters tape to get a snug fit. Don't force it into the shaft, or you may split the shaft, and/or not have room for the expoxy.
Forgot, I would dip the ends when finished in a quality enamel or floor finish, to seal the splice and keep water/moisture from affecting the splice.
Find footing Aluminum Arrows that fit your carbons and get the incerts( & incert are just about an inch long) to fit the Aluminum Arrows and at least an inch over lap and see if that will take care of your long draw. I have been doing this with carbons that split less than a 1/2 inch when hit I cut off the bad part and more then use the footing(my case 2 inches of 2117 with a 2117 incert) and adjust to length (cutting if I need to) they fly just as my other footed shafts( with 2 inch footings)also stands up to hard hits (stumping )even better than plain footed carbons
Hint: round the edges of footings chuck them in a drill and sand /file the ends rounding them
If you can draw 33" and shoot accurately, you will have one devestating combo. Now you only need the 160+#s that the Mongols used...
There was a guy in the bow shop here several years ago the drew a compound to 34". He only drew back to a standard anchor. I am not into sports, but they called him "Big Country". He was some kind of ball player.
He used an aluminum arrow. It came in 34" lengths. You might try some aluminums.
God Bless,
Nathan
What size are your carbons AD? 2117 will fit 35/55 GTs. I think it's 2215s that fit 55/77s but I'd have to check the chart here on TG for that right shaft. I know 55/75s are 32" uncut. The nock adds about 1/2". If you foot with a 2.5" piece of alum shafting with insert for the alum you'll be close.
If you can find another carbon shaft that fits snugly inside of the shafts you're shooting, just cut off a 3-inch piece or so and epoxy half its length into the end of your shaft. Then epoxy the length extenion you need from a throw away shaft of the size you're shooting onto the 1 1/2 shaft liner. (You may need to sacrifice one normal shaft for several extension pieces.) This is the way a lot of multi-piece fishing rods are joined. Might be a better idea to work on shortening your draw. Good luck.
If I understood you right you said you measured from the nock to the tip of the point,and had 33". Carbon Express has the Heritage arrow shafts that measure 32.75 from the nock valley to the end of the shaft. These shafts left uncut may be long enough for what you want.
The shafts are Easton Storm .340 spine. They measure a touch over 32" uncut.
I do happen to have 2 shafts that are broken, so I have enough spare carbon parts!
I didn't get to the hardware store to find a wooden dowel. I do think the best route is to foot it with another piece of carbon.
I did have a 2219 aluminum shaft that fits over the carbon, but it's a tad loose, and I'd rather not make the outside diameter larger.
would a piece of a small diameter shaft such as a MFX of Axis fit snug inside of one of your shafts? If so maybe try a 12 expoy and that method, plus you could use a nice heavy brass insert that the MFX comes with if you are also looking to make a heavy arrow also??
Big country was an okie bball player - bryant reeves. Slow...but big.
OK here's the next question,
I'm going to use a wooden dowel to add a 3.5" piece.
Given the choice, should I add length to the nock end or the point end?
I measured the insert of a GT and it measured .246 at its thickest point. A 1616 aluminum shaft measures .220. Sloppy but it may work with enough glue or some thread wrapped around it.
Am I the only one that noticed he is shooting a left hand bow right handed? Angeldeville, how long have you been shooting this way, and why? I'm not trying to critisize, just wondering what the advantage of it is?
Randy, that's because he's using a thumb ring.
Angel, if you can figure out what size aluminum shaft will fit over your carbons, you can use that to extend the length. Cut an extra piece of carbon to fill in the gap between the end of the original carbon and the aluminum insert. Slather it all with epoxy and you should be good to go.
With the thumb release that is the proper side because the finger is rolling the string the same as if it were a left hand bow. The part I am wondering is how is the aim with the arrow on the off side and the anchor that far back, the arrow must really be coming in from right field. Now if the bow can be canted to the left,with head the tilted forward a bit and the anchor moved to the somewhere around the corner of the mouth, instead behind the jaw bone, the eye can get over the arrow. I looked at the video, dugout my old Wilson aluminum and leather Straptab that I used way back in my target shooting days with my BW target bows and tried a few shots with my left hand bows shooting right handed. When I stretched it to behind my jaw bone with the bow vertical, I found a new place to stick arrows into my garage, over there by the corner down spout. Interesting stuff, I am going out and try it with my dual shelf pignut flat limb now.
Yep thumb release is the key, I'm not using the arrow to aim at all.
I can miss the target just as well with my centercut longbow with meditereanean draw, as I can with my horse bow and thumb draw... maybe even better!
The local shop has a garbage can full of used arrows for $1 each so I'm going to try out a few aluminums and carbons to see what I can piece together, I'd prefer to keep the same OD, and foot internally, but we'll see what the arrows gods provide.
Just a thought but if your going to make your arrows longer you might want to put the dowel on the knock end so it will stiffen the arrow.
By golly it worked Ishi style and with the vertical thing I used my left knuckle. Depending on the weight, it would be possible with fiberglass shafts with hardwood dowels glued in to make arrows that long. I used to stuff Midroflite 12s and 11s with dowels for my extra heavy longbows, I do not think that a foot of a few inches at point would greatly alter the spine as long as they were stiff enough to begin with, when using a dowel on the inside. You could even put an aluminum shaft inside and call it good and use the aluminum insert to mount your broadhead.
Think I would add to the knock end then put a wrap around to smooth it up,this would also stiffen spine.
OK so here's the result, I made a test arrow and I'll see how it works and shoots.
I ended up adding 2 1/4" to the oal.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSC00623.jpg)
I cut the extra carbon 2 1/4" The wood dowel 2" the 2217 aluminum foot 4" and I installed the insert into the extra carbon piece.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSC00626.jpg)
I put the 2" piece of 1/4" hardwood dowel butted up to the back of the insert, and into the main shaft, using crazy glue
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSC00629.jpg)
I doubt that splice alone is strong enough to I crazy glued the 4" 2217 aluminum footing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSC00630.jpg)
Or; you could cut off a 3-4" chunk of another carbon arrow, glue inserts in each end, get a 8X32 bolt about 2" long cut off the head , use this to join the extension to the shaft, screw your point in like normal, worked for me.
I was trying to do it on the cheap, the dowel was $.47 and the 2217 shaft was $1, and the crazy glue was $1.57 for 5 tubes!