I've taken that needle point off Snuffers before and I'm getting ready to do some WW's so....my question is....how do you guys/gals do them? My method has worked fine in the past but I'm always eager to hear new or other ideas.
Couple of file strokes then diamond stone, while attached to piece of shaft, so I can spin it as I lay the tip over and smooth it up.
I sharpen 3 blade heads by laying two blades on a file and/or stones and push or pull it to sharpen.
Before I leave the file for something finer, I drag the head from heel to tip and raise the head a little at the end. Gets rid of the "needle" but doesn't blunt the tip like nipping with side cutters.
(http://www.tradgang.com/upload/charlie/woodsman.jpg)
I do what Charllie does....but on a belt sander....that's where I get all the bevels level....then I raise the back end up for a second and rotate....hardly any pressure at all...bout 3 times per side....
(http://www.tradgang.com/upload/terry/IMG_3121.JPG)
I like to keep mine on. I know that if it hits bone, they might bend a bit, but I still have never had a problem with penetration. I like the needle point for those angling away shots - it grips and sticks.
I hear ya Tommy....but they just bend too easy IMO. When they make a 90 degree turn from dropping them on the floor...they are just to fragile....again, IMO. I don't want a 90 dergee point trying to 'plow' through an animal
The pyramid point has zero effect on angled shots...cause its not that big of a change.....nor is it enough to hinder penetration. We aren't making a change like some of these huger extreme tanto points some are using.
thanks for the advice gang. I think Charlie's way is better than how I've been doing it so I'll give it a try.
getting a head sharp has never been a big deal for me. I just don't care for that needle point but, I'm sure there are advantages to having it. maybe I'll leave a couple on just as an experiment.
oh yeah' thanks for the pics
Try pushing a couple of those needles on a counter top....you might decide to not leave any of them on.
:campfire:
Terry, i like how you did the point but what is the reason for what you did to the back of the blades?
hey Kituwa. I'm thinking less drag.
yeah Terry. just did one on my desk top and I see your 'point'. LOL I'll be taking them all off.
Hissing noise reduction
QuoteOriginally posted by Kituwa:
Terry, i like how you did the point but what is the reason for what you did to the back of the blades?
It's easier to take out of the quiver, no "lip" to catch when taking the broadhead out.
QuoteOriginally posted by Kituwa:
Terry, i like how you did the point but what is the reason for what you did to the back of the blades?
Oh....I should have stated...those are my small gamers.....and angling off those corners make them come out of a back quiver very easy as compared to them being stock. If left stock, they drag pretty hard and also catch on any 'lip' at the top of the quiver.
I have been on a few hunts where we hunt hogs and javies AND bunnies....and I put my real Bheads in my bow quiver and my small game heads in my back quiver....that way I don't get my bheads for the larger animals mixed up....once the big critters are spotted, I drop the back quiver all together for the stalk.
I use the same method Charlie does.
Sorry....left off the photo....
(http://www.tradgang.com/upload/terry/bern3.jpg)
I do exactly what Terry and Charlie are mentioning. It works great. I use a flat diamond stone.