was wondering what the do it yourselfer's are using for a finish coat over snake skins on your limbs, and the long term results? I just put a set of copperheads on some Morrison Shawnee limbs, skins are dried and trimmed, haven't gone any farther yet...I know some guys use super glue and then spray finish, and some guys use true oil and then spray finish. what has been your best results?
thanks, larry
I've used Minwax spray polyurethane with good results. Did you get the scales off?
For the DIY guy I suggest true oil as it is easy to apply and has great results. Some finishes are not compatible with skins and the finsh will lift and flake off after the bow is been shot. I only know of two fininshes that will work that I have 1st hand knowledge of anf that is true oil and thunderbird, and I know for a fact ML Campbel Krystal will not work. Ive heard spray can poly will work but I have never used it. You can do a search on the bowyers bench and get some good info.
Copperheads are great. I love them all,but alot of Diamondbacks I have done have scales like a dragon. I have had great results with big,tough,scaled snakes applying superglue over the skins after they have been glued,and sanded to really keep the remaining scales down. I apply the glue above the scales that are sticking up,then smooth it over the suspect area with my finger going with the running pattern of the scales. Tru-oil is very good. You need to patient with it. lot's of thin coat's. I just finished a bow with Canebrake skins,and had my painter friend spray automotive clear coat over the whole bow. It has alot of flex due to its use in plastic bumper covers,and it is tough,and resists the suns UV rays. Guys...IT IS BEAUTIFUL. Way to glossy for the woods,but the bow is stunning. It just looks wet. I love the look of it. I will try to post a pic on this thread tonight if I get a second. rat'
I have only done it on selfbows, but after removing the clear scales with tape (be sure you get all of them off!), I hand rub several coats of super glue and allow them dry between coats. Then when I am satisfied that I have the skins sealed real good with the CA glue I hand rub in 6 or 7 coats of Tru Oil.
I have a fiberglass bow that has copper head skins on the limbs and for whatever reason over the many years the finish has become "cloudy" making it very hard to see the skins. I wish I new what was used to finish this bow so I could relay what not to use!
Good luck with this project. I'd love to see a picture when you get er done!
K.C. <><
I put a couple of coats of Tru Oil over my cottonmouth skins. I let that dry completely, and then shot a few coats of Helmsman Spar Urathane. They still look as good as the day I did them after a year. Will see how they hold up in the long run.
thanks for all the info...I think after doing a little more research, I'm going to forego the super glue and true oil and order up some tried and true thunderbird
I just skinned my Maddog with rattlers from Pine Hollow. I used Tru Oil. I had never done it before, and I had a lot of skin that would not lay down after the scales came off (refered to as dragon scales by riverrat above). The way I handled it was easy, I put two coats Truoil on then sanded. Two more coats, then I took the sharpest knife I could find and literally shaved the skin off where it was sticking up. Then I sanded it and intalled two more coats with steel wool between. I finished with matte acrylic clear. The result is glass smooth and you cannot tell where I shaved the stubborn skin off. I know the super glue would keep those down, but I was scared of the unfriendliness of the glue. If anyone wants pics I reckon I could figure out how to do that.
I like that knife trick NEB. I have also used a disposable Bic razor that way. Here is my Canebrake job I was talking about in my above post. This is automotive clearcoat over the bow/skins.
(http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z473/ryanwhitaker/018-1.jpg)
(http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z473/ryanwhitaker/019.jpg)
(http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z473/ryanwhitaker/020.jpg)
(http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z473/ryanwhitaker/021.jpg)
(http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z473/ryanwhitaker/022.jpg)
so I ordered some thunderbird from big jim...and after a little thought decided it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a couple coats of true oil on first. here's a few pics, scales are off skins are trimmed and one coat of true oil...not quite dry yet.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/lgmarshall/shawnee%20limbs/Shawneelimbs002.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/lgmarshall/shawnee%20limbs/Shawneelimbs001.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/lgmarshall/shawnee%20limbs/Shawneelimbs003.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/lgmarshall/shawnee%20limbs/Shawneelimbs004.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/lgmarshall/shawnee%20limbs/Shawneelimbs007.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/lgmarshall/shawnee%20limbs/Shawneelimbs007.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/lgmarshall/shawnee%20limbs/Shawneelimbs008.jpg)
I would forget about the super glue, any finish applied over it seems to crack or separate the two and leave a dull mark at the working part of the limbs. I would either spray poly over them or use tru oil.
Looks great riverat! Those canebreaks change color a lot after you put them on dont they?Yours looks just like the ones i just put on my wifes bow,it was over black glass too. Larry those copperheads are coming along nice too.I have never put copperheads on but they should go on better than some as they are thin and have fine scales. I just about spewed coffee on my computer at riverats dragon scale remark,lol.
Kituwa,thanks for the compliment. rraming,you should post a pic of that eastern skinned bow of yours you did a while back....you know,the one that the skin still looks alive on the bow. That is probably the best eastern diamondback skin I have seen used. I never had any trouble with superglue. The pics I posted have quite a bit of superglue over them. I sand afterwards to "knock it down" a bit,but never any issues. I love the stuff.
Larry,those are some good looking Morrison limbs there buddy. What kind of veneer is under them?
True oil and then sprayed with Deft in a satin finish so the sun doesn't glare off the limbs.
Be careful about mixing finishes. They are not always compatible, and its not best to find that out on a beautiful set of skins.
Take your skin trimmings, glue them to a board or cardboard or whatever, and try your finish combo there first.
Give it a while, things can happen even if it seems great on day 1. Finishes cure for weeks after they are dry.
Anyone try Massey (Jay) finish?
TTT,
I hope people read my post above on finishes that are not compatible.
I've done well over 100 sets of limbs and have seen all kinds of issues arise. Some weeks after you are done. TEST, TEST, TEST!!!!
Skins, finishes, oil content in different woods, etc., all have different variables that can wreak havoc on the adhesion of snakeskins.
Example, There is a species of Asian sea snake that I cannot find a glue in the world that will adhere it to anything. Really strange.
Osage selfbow I built with a Python skin back. I used Tru-oil first then Spar Varathane satin with some sanding in between...
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/finishedOsagePython009.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/finishedOsagePython008.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/coaster500/finishedOsagePython006.jpg)
I like the last pic, python in the bushes!
Thanks David it was a huge snake I've got enough for two more bows :)