Can anyone make an argument for the additional cost of .003" arrows? Whether it is 3D or a hunting situation is there anyway that .003" difference would be noticable? Isn't this just a way for the arrow companies to make more money? Your thoughts.
pz, It all depends on your skill level! For MOST shooters, you will never be able to tell the difference. It is NOT a marketing gimmic as straighter shafts DO add to accuracy BUT most of us don't shoot well enough to see or tell a difference.
I see this is your first post, how long have you been shooting? How good are you (really)? If you are a beginner, just get the arrows you can afford, don't worry about whether they are the "best" you can find AND SHOOT them. For hunting and 3D, and the associated distances your form and consistency will have a MUCH larger effect than just buying "better" arrows.
Arne
Some people want nothing but what they perceive to be the best and are willing to pay more for it (kind of like paying $20 - $30 each for broadheads). Arrow companies sort the straightest shafts and charge a premium for them. As to whether not there's any real value: show me a recurve shooter who can shoot the differemce and I'll show you someone who just got home from London.
I am alright. If I am shooting 3D I shoot about 80 per 10. This is my third year shooting and I am still improving. My thinking is that anyone who is shooting wood must be outside of these tolerances, so why pay the extra price. I could see if you were in the Olympics, but if you are only shooting out to 30 or 35 yards max what would you buy?
Blems.
But I have only been a shooter for 48 years. And I have a not-so-good learning curve.
Killdeer :D :wavey:
If it makes a difference in your head it makes a difference.
The reality is there is a very very very select few who could really tell the diference in their shooting. I think Jason said it pretty well.
Don't burst my bubble Ferret...just got some .006's and lovin them from woods...lol
QuoteOriginally posted by Killdeer:
Blems.
But I have only been a shooter for 48 years. And I have a not-so-good learning curve.
Killdeer :D :wavey:
My curve seems to be more like a circle, or a straight line, or both.
Only about 10% of all archers today would be able to actually shoot well enough to see the difference. But as stated above if it gives you extra confidence go with the better.
I do not think I can tell in a trad bow, but I do wonder if anyone ever checks them to see if there is a real difference.
Do you really think a company runs two different machines to make the same shaft with one machine set to less straightness? Or maybe they run them on the same machine but dial the straightness up or down by batch? Maybe they use the old warn out ties or something to run the less straight shafts. Do they sort every shaft and put them in different piles? Or just maybe they are all the same shaft.
My inquiring minds actually would like to know the inside scoop on this.
QuoteOriginally posted by xtrema312:
I do not think I can tell in a trad bow, but I do wonder if anyone ever checks them to see if there is a real difference.
Do you really think a company runs two different machines to make the same shaft with one machine set to less straightness? Or maybe they run them on the same machine but dial the straightness up or down by batch? Maybe they use the old warn out ties or something to run the less straight shafts. Do they sort every shaft and put them in different piles? Or just maybe they are all the same shaft.
My inquiring minds actually would like to know the inside scoop on this.
The companies make all shafts in the same machines at the same settings. They are then dial checked and matched.
Those which show the smallest variances have premium placed on them.
You also still have to check the straightness for yourself. They only check the middle 28in of shaft for straightness and they can be pretty crooked at the ends. If that kind of precision is what you're after you might look at aluminum as they are the most ecomical in those tolerances.
Honestly I doubt there is anyone on this forum that tell a difference. And if they could it would be at distances greater than 40 yards.
Shooting indoor 20 yards I only use .006 carbons and have shot over a dozen 300"s. Not with my stick bow.
Interesting stuff. I still wonder if they are running short on an order of .006 if they just don't throw in .003's.
Probably right whats been said here, that most couldn't tell the difference...but then who knows for sure. The fact is that .003 is straighter than .006
My personal goal is to strive to shoot the very best I can. So if my thinking is that any of my equipment is but satisfactory, okay or "good enough", I'm afraid that thinking would likely be how I'd view my shooting accuracy too.
I've never shot noticeably better with carbons than I shoot with woodies. My woods are never even close to .006" straight, bigger differences in weight, and eventhough spined really close, I would think natural grain would make one arrow flex a bit different than the next.
So, either .003" difference doesn't mean anything, or I'm a poor shot with any arrow...hmmm, don't answer that.
Dang, you mean there might be a difference in one of my misses betwixt .003 and .006!!! :knothead:
Actually the majority of us have a lot more problems with our shooting to be concerned with than a few thousandths of an inch in an arrow shaft to my way of thinking. Nothing wrong with seeking perfection but nothing wrong with being the best you can be with what you got either, or can afford.
Wooden arrows can be shot very, very well but .003 or .006 has never been a factor to me using them. If they spin straight they be really fine. My carbons spin straight so I'm happy.
Good shootin'
Maybe someone needs to run a test with a shooting machine and post the results at different yardages. I guess you could start off with the straightest shafts and get it dialed in. Then use the less tolerant shafts and see how much they deviate from the mark set by the straightest shafts. It might be something that could be requested of Traditional Bowhunter Mag, who knows?
I know that I can't tell the difference in new shafts between .003" and .006" runout.
Shoot the arrows for a while and check them for straightness; it just may surprise you.
I have Beman Hunter(.003)and Bowhunter(.006),and accuracy wise I think they are the same. But, I have noticed that when I tune them, the .003's come out being about a 1/2" longer than the .006's (same spine). If I cut one of each to the same length, the .003 will be a little stiffer than the .006. ???
How I feel about it is if you have ever shot wood then went to carbon.006" of an inch is nothing and so minute that you will never be able to tell the differece.my shooting improved alot when I switched to carbon.
I like crooked arrows. They make up.more for my shooter errors.
If your going to be in the next Olympics, get em!
I don't think there is probably any of us shooting a trad bow instictively that could ever tell a difference.
Who has ever checked them to insure that they are actually as straight as they claim to be?
an arrow that is spinning during flight will not be affected by .003 or .006 runout . the point of the arrow simply spins around a .003 or .006 radius circle .
aint nobody shooting a bow that can measure accuracy that fine .
My thoughts exactly Mongo! I wonder how much sorting really goes on before packaging. I mean, how many people would even be able to check to see if they were as straight as they claim?
On a side note, I use lower priced carbons and recently found one that was visibly crooked. This was the first carbon that I have ever seen that you could visibly tell was not straight. I it spun like an old bent aluminum that I once used. Unfortunately I didn't notice this until after I had fletched it. So, since I hated to waste a new arrow, I decided to shoot it and see if it made any difference. Well, out to 20yds(as far as I have shot it so far) it shot with all the rest of my straight shafts.
Now I haven't shot it with BHs yet, but I won't be throwing it away.
I got caught up in the same wonderment when I first started buying arrows. Bought some Gold Tip pro hunters, now half are busted or lost. Never again on the pricey arrows. Gold Tip expedition hunters. 006 are what I have now and the savings are worth it.
I think my bow arm/ shoulder is the greatest culprit for inaccuracy. Arrow straightness is insignificant in comparison.
Alway heard if you trim carbon shafts from both ends you will be removing some of the crooked.
I put BH on and shoot them if they fly true their good.....stabow