ok im losing the battle with my longbow, I just can not get this bow to shoot where I look to save my life. I have tuned, retuned, tried different shelf material, difference spines, ect... and just cant get it to work for me. Grouping wise its good but about 5-7" to the left of where I want them to be. Bareshafts flying perfect, bullet holes through paper. all my other bows I have tuned the same way and all will hit right where im looking.
any ideas? thanks
Raise the brace height and/or cant the bow more.
Aim to the right about five to seven inches.
Sorry, couldn't resist that :smileystooges:
Guy
Charlie, hitting left could indicate a stiff arrow. How does raising the brace height move the arrow impact to the right? Is it because the arrow comes off the string sooner while still in paradox?
if the shelf isn't cut to center, raising the brace height allows the tail end of the arrow to start coming out of paradox sooner.
You could try removing your strike plate completely.... if that helps, use a heavier tip weight to adjust it, or go to a lighter spine.
What kind of arrows are you trying to tune anyway?
The same thing has happened to me before, and there was nothing wrong with my set up, it was me.
For a while, try shooting with a very high awareness of getting the back end of the arrow directly under your eye. See what happens when you do this.
It is possible that your anchor has drifted over time so that it is no longer under your eye. That would cause your groups to be to the left and the arrows not going where you are looking/aiming.
QuoteOriginally posted by smokin joe:
The same thing has happened to me before, and there was nothing wrong with my set up, it was me.
For a while, try shooting with a very high awareness of getting the back end of the arrow directly under your eye. See what happens when you do this.
It is possible that your anchor has drifted over time so that it is no longer under your eye. That would cause your groups to be to the left and the arrows not going where you are looking/aiming.
this is the only bow im having issues with. my other longbow and my recurves dont do it. use the same anchor and form for them all so I dont think its me, idk im lost lol.
QuoteOriginally posted by Kirkll:
if the shelf isn't cut to center, raising the brace height allows the tail end of the arrow to start coming out of paradox sooner.
You could try removing your strike plate completely.... if that helps, use a heavier tip weight to adjust it, or go to a lighter spine.
What kind of arrows are you trying to tune anyway?
goldtip trads 3555, as far as i can tell they are tuned. but still not hitting with me. it just had leather for the shelf and it bare shafted great with full length gt 3555 with 50gr inserts and a 125gr point. for the heck of it I put furniture pads like I use on my titan o nthe longbow and it tuned perfect with swapping the 125gr tips to 200gr tips, perfect bullet holes (didnt check bareshaft flight) but it did move things more to the right switching to this. I have gone up to 300gr up front and it still shot left so? maybe me and this bow just wont get along
QuoteOriginally posted by Grey Taylor:
Aim to the right about five to seven inches.
Sorry, couldn't resist that :smileystooges:
Guy
MY problems are solved!!!! lol
Any limb twistage
doesnt look like it but anyway to know for sure?
That was happening to me yesterday with my Hill. Previously it was hitting dead on.
I canted it, raised point weight and it shot better, but not every shot.
I think I was tired from my physical therapy, and wasn't gripping the handle right.
If you handle a bow carelessly, they can get torqued at you. ;)
Killdeer
Roy... hitting left could be caused by an overly stiff arrow.If the brace height is too low the arrow stays with the string too long and hits the bow during paradox bouncing off and impacting left.
It will usually show up as a mark on the arrow plate toward the shooter side of the plate instead of centered.
Killy... how's that Hill bow treating you by now.
Also make sure you are not anchoring a little loose.Make sure you sink your anchor in tight.
I'm with Big Ed on this one, if I don't hold a real tight anchor, LEFT! I can get away with it on the recurves, but the longbow needs to be a tight, smooth release.
Charlie, we are becoming real good buddies!
I have been practicing with 175 grain VPA Terminators, Grizzlys that weigh about 200 and Magnus Journeymen that are about 215, and at 20 yards they are going within an inch either way of where I am looking. Yesterday was an aberration.
I am even beginning to think a Hill is beautiful.
Reliability does that to me.
Killdeer :bigsmyl:
Since most other mechanical things have been tried, let me try another tact. Is your longbow cut about 1/8-inch proud of center? (The other bows you mentioned you shoot are cut past center.) If so, and if you aim by looking at the target only and don't use split vision, then your brain is placing your bow hand where it always does. However, with the longbow, the arrow will be pointing to the left of the target rather than at it. Of course, the arrow will then hit left. If that is the case, just have to shoot until your brain adjusts to the change. However it will be difficult to do if you mostly shoot your other bows. Good luck.
I have had the same problem out of diffrent bows.What is your draw weight and length and your arrow length?
bow is marked 47# @ 26" I draw around 27 - 27.5" using the cloth pin method (still need to do a little more measuring to make sure)
arrows are 32" gt trad 3555 with 3 5" shield cuts, 50gr inserts and 200gr tip.
I believe the riser is cut to center
raised teh brace to about 6 3/4" and its shooting more to the right now, pretty close but arrow seems to drop more at 30 yds. will have bare shaft and retune ad see how things work out at this brace.
I think your arrow is still to stiff.I have found that longbows need lighter spine arrows than recurves.You should contact Curt and see if he can cut your window more.
thought about that as well. my other longbow just tuned up good with full length cx heritage with standard inserts and 100gr tip.
ill try some 1535's in it tomorrow and see if it likes those more. if so I guess I could just go the weight tube route to get the weight up.
cutting it deeper would let it use stiffer arrows right? thanks
Yes but talk to Curt he knows his bows they are a work of art.Need to be sure there is enough window to cut away.Tell him how many inches at 20 yards you are shooting to the left. I am also a longbow shooter and i have fought with some bows bad.Good luck and tell me how it works out.Hope this might help.
thanks, if I still have issues tomorrow ill shoot him a emial and see if he can do anything.
I have this happen especially when shooting different bows a lot. For some reason with certain bows I will lock my bow arm (left) out straight and not shoot with my arm slightly bent. At release my arm will jump a little to the left and throw my arrow that way. When I see two or three arrows 5 or 6 inches left I will remind myself of proper form.
Hi sawtooth, I deal with shooting left all the time. the arrow setups you are describing sound very weak for your draw length and bow, which should push your arrows right. I wouldn't go weaker (1535 is probably too weak, and 300 grains up front sounds like overkill on the 3555s). I agree with the guy that talked to eye/string/arrow alignment. Or you could reduce the thickness (or remove) your strike plate.
There are a ton of reasons why you may be shooting left, fewer if you are shooting left with only one of several bows. Change one thing at a time and see if you can work it out. The above responses are good ones.
ChuckC
I would bet it's your anchor point(as previously stated). I have the same problem at times, when I force myself to get the arrow under my eye, the arrow comes back right. Canting the bow a little more helps for me as does really sinking my anchor into the corner of my mouth.
I messed around with the bow more and got it shooting pretty good. that being said im sending it back to get the shelf cut a little deeper, thank that will help