Anyone using the Harbor Frieght cut off saw for arrows? Is there any blade wobble (uneven cut)? Are you using the metal blade or fiber blades for carbon. Thanks for all answers.
I went through this process just a couple weeks ago. Some folks seem to like the HF saw with a few mods made to it, some don't like it at all. I went through and added up all the extras I would get with it to make it a little more user friendly and it was cheaper, actually even price wise to just buy a weston from bowhunters superstore. $100, got it late last week and it works like a champ.
I purchased one from HF and it was junk. I would recommend NOT buying one. You pay for what you get.
purchased one from HF and it was junk. I would recommend NOT buying one. You pay for what you get.
X2 Glad I could get my money back anyway.
I use a fiber bladed cut off saw at work to cut my carbons to size. I get them all even in a tight bunch,tape them together,measure how much I need to remove,tape that area,then put a mark on the tape at that spot. Then I line it up,and hold them firmly,smooth even cut through all at once. rat'
Been useing one for years works great. There are the fiber blades for aluminumn and graphite and a wood blade also.
I do not see any blade wobble or uneven cut. :thumbsup:
I have a HF but it is too slow for wood. I went back to my 10" chop saw and can do a dozen shafts all at once.
I've been using a HF saw for quite a few years now, NO PROBLEMS. I just bought the metal blades with it.
If you have a Dremel it will work better than the HF saw. In fact I like it better than the Weston saw.
I have a Harbor Freight mini chop saw,I use the fiber blade for cutting carbon and aluminum.It's has high speed but bogs down when you try to cut wood.I use my old Martin arrow saw for my wood arrows.The secret to get a good square cut is being able to rotate the arrow shaft as you cut.I mounted mine on a board and made an adjustable stop block for repeatable cuts.On the stop block I drilled a taper hole with a chamfer bit,this keeps the nock end center as you rotate.I'll just bring the blade into the shaft and rotate it as I cut,this gives you a squarer cut.Thats how the more expensive saws cut arrows,they only have a small portion of the blade exposed so you rotate the arrow as you cut.I've been using mine for last 3 years with no problems and only replacing the blade once.Because you only need to just cut into the shaft and not straight down through it.I've cut dozens of aluminum and carbons for myself and friends.When I bought mine it was only $19.95,I have less then $30 in my whole jig with the wood board and stop block.
Hey Eflanders ( or any folks),
How do u go about using the Dremel? One arrow at a time and hold steady I suppose or have u developed a different technique/jig?
I use the Dremel too. One at a time, hold steady and cut. If it doesn't look exactly square, then you can touch it up. Works great for me.
QuoteOriginally posted by Blue Tick:
I went through this process just a couple weeks ago. Some folks seem to like the HF saw with a few mods made to it, some don't like it at all. I went through and added up all the extras I would get with it to make it a little more user friendly and it was cheaper, actually even price wise to just buy a weston from bowhunters superstore. $100, got it late last week and it works like a champ.
Exactly!
No problems at all with my HF saw. I use the fiber disks. Its not like I cut more than 2-3 dozen shafts a year. Plenty good and accurate for my use.
I cut my wood shafts on my band saw.
ChuckC
QuoteOriginally posted by DoubleB20:
I use the Dremel too. One at a time, hold steady and cut. If it doesn't look exactly square, then you can touch it up. Works great for me.
ditto... I have used a Dremel for years.
QuoteOriginally posted by creekwood:
QuoteOriginally posted by DoubleB20:
I use the Dremel too. One at a time, hold steady and cut. If it doesn't look exactly square, then you can touch it up. Works great for me.
ditto... I have used a Dremel for years. [/b]
Me three and the dremel is a valuable tool for other tasks when the arra cutting is done!
another dremel guy....though I really need to make a jig for it.
I cut just short of the line, go all the way around the shaft, and than sand to the line on the disc sander before grinding the tip taper. Works like a champ.
I just use my mitre saw with a metal "zip cut" blade in it. I have to block up the bottom a bit to get the arrow close enough to the blade but it works well.
I use a dremel jigsaw. Mark the Arrows and cut carefully. They come out just fine.
Never had a problem with my HF saw. I only cut carbon and fiberglass shafts tho. And I may only cut 18-36 shafts a year. If I cut shafts for a business or made arrows up in bulk, Id buy a better foreign made, preferably European model.
A buddy of mine like me uses the HF saw, but I am bout out of borrowed carbon blades... I was told they were on Fleabay, anyone know the link to that?
i just broke down and bought a saw. its an apple 8,000rpm for $160 and should be here next week sometime. i got tired of messing around trying to cut carbons.
i use my 4inch grinder with a metal cut off wheel(carbelemdum wheel) works great.