Ok I went from bare shaft tuning to Paper tuning. I got my knocking point where the arrows where flying right. I shoot a 50#@28 inches and pull 29 Martin vision on a 2117 aluminum xx75. Now for the weak spine stiff spine stuff. I shoot 125 grn head currently so I put a 250 grn head on and see nothing change other than I have to hold a little higher(due to heavier arrow I think) so I switch it to 200,175,etc and see no change as I went down in grained heads back to 125. I held goo groups with them all. What gives?
is paper tuning really necessary? I have never balanced anything and i get my knocking point somewhere close to level with with a slight down angle. I hit what i shoot at. Is it just nitpicking?
Indians shot arrows with asymmetric stones.
I have thousands upon thousands of caddoan "Tula" arrowpoints, atl atl points, and lance heads. Very few of them are symmetrical and balanced. It seemed to not bother them.
for me it is. I want to know my arrows are flying as good as possible so I have no worries or doubts, if I mess up its on me and not my gear.
my bare shaft act alot different with different weight tips, same with paper so idk whats going on with your stuff honestly. Did you shoot bare shafts with all those weights or just fletched? and did you shoot all the weights through paper with the fletch shafts or just target practice?
I shot most of the weights through the paper and didn't see enough difference to worry about it. That is why I am asking the question. I have never tuned a bow before so I changed my string and decided to tune before season starts. I also wanted to go with a heavier broadhead (2 blade cut on contact). That is the reason I am messing with my stuff.
I never had all the problems mentioned here with my arrow flight. My arrows seem to fly just fine without all the mombojumbo that some guys see to to have to go thur. But you know I have always been lucky like that,
Same here James.
Sometimes i think people create problems just to have something to do. Others create problems so they have something to sell others.
If you have more drag displacement than the weight of your warhead then its going to shoot straight.
so your getting bullet holes with all those weights?
Yeah I am not seeing any real deviation between the different weights. I thought jumping from a 125 to a 250 I would see the shaft weaken but I saw no real change than the trajectory.
I have tried paper tune but to be honest my release is not what it should be due to a condition i have and it just won't work without a good release or good form in general.
Did you paper tune at 6 feet? If you are standing further away than 6 feet, your fletching may be straightening the arrow out before it gets to the paper.
I Like Paper tuning the best of all of the methods. I always say that the paper does not lie. However, you have to draw the bow to the same place every time and have a decent release for it to work right.
If you are not seeing a difference in your tear, you may not have the paper tight. Also, you need to start out 3-6 feet from the paper. I start around 4 1/2 feet from the paper, and after I am tuned at that distance, I check it at 10 yards. I am sure that this is not the only way to do it, but it is how that I do it.
If you start with a tuned arrow (an arrow that produces a perfect tear), and add weight to the front; you make the arrow weak and it will produce a left hand tear (nock end of the arrow will tear to the left of where the point entered the paper) If you take weight away from a tuned arrow, then you make the arrow stiff and it will produce a right hand tear.
Good luck!
I don't have a good enough release to paper tune so I use the bare shaft planing method.
I guess it could be my releas. I did try it at 6 feet and I moved my knocking point up and down and definitely saw the arrow tear the paper up and then when I went the other way it changed. So I was seeing the movement with the knocking point adjustments. I just didn't see it with different grained points.
Choose the tuning method which works best for you and which you have the most confidence in.
The bottom line is that the fletched shaft w/BH must be tuned. Failure to abide will render even the most arrow penetrating enhancements as being compromised.
Determining exact reasons for corrections may go unanswered and sometimes have found myself attempting to rationalize. I still want to know exactly why the issue was incurred but find myself a little more ready to accept the unanswered.
>>>One may only tune as well that one can consitently execute a shot.
>>>In my experience, arrows bareshafted to 30 yards shoot bullet hoels thru paper as well as place a 1 1/2" 3 blade on the mark at 25 yards.
I would tune at further distances, however 30 yards is 5 yards beyond my general effective hunting range.
Friend,
I have tried bare shafting, but I have not had good results. Could you explain exactly how you do it and what you look for as far as results?
Thanks
Charlie
It's all right here:
http://bowmaker.net/index2.htm
Gen273...The Bare Shaft Planing Method as perscribed by "ACS at A&H Archery" explains the method much more clear and concise than any of my attempts.
**Note: When I need refreshers, that is exactly where I revisit.
I get poor results with paper tuning, when I finelly :scared: arrow flight(and an overly stiff arrow) :bigsmyl: SHAFT TUNE I get great arrow flight, bare and fletched shafts together = broadheads and fieldpnts together or very close>>>-> and arrows grouping well :archer2:
http://bowmaker.net/index2.htm That's the way I do it>>>-->