I was messing around with different weight of points today from 100-175gr. With my set up It was recommended that I use 175gr and according to the spine calculator and others on tradgang. I shot one fletched and one bare. The fletched arrow for the 100gr and 175gr seemed to fly about where you would want but the bare shaft was a little more apart. If your are going to shoot with a fletched arrow to hunt and 3d anyways, why does the bare shaft tune matter? The 100gr is clearly faster and thumps pretty good. why would this be a wrong choice?
(GT traditional 3555
45#@28"
Draw length about 27.5
4in feathers)
If you tune your arrow well, broadheads and field points will both group together, and the arrow is more likely to fly well from a less than perfect release. A well tuned arrow should fly straighter and thus give better penetration when hunting.
I guess its about trying to stack the odds in your favour :)
That makes a lot more sense! Thank you!
No expert but the shafts that I have bareshafted fly great. Shafts that have not flew good were not bareshafted. Confidence is a major role in archery and I am very confident after bareshaft tuning that if arrows are flying badly, fishtailing or porposing at all,or missing badly at close distances for me. I can check my tuning with another bareshaft and if it's still in tune it's me!!!Many prefer other forms of tuning and that's fine if it works for them.BARESHAFTING WORKS FOR ME.It's all about being able to deliver the point to the target, so if I'm dead set on using a certain point/broadhead that's fine just adjust shaft/bow to deliver it naturally without trying to force it ,and the outcome will be a lot better.
I always bare shaft then paper tune. they shoot like lazers when everything comes out good. I watch the bare shaft in flight and play around until I get ride of all or most of the kick and get the tail high fixed up. Then I go to the paper tuner and see what tear I get and adjust until I get a bullet hole. Didnt start doing this until a few weeks ago and I really wish I did this right fro mthe start since im shooting alot better and my arrows fly much better.
I live in western Washington where it rains alot. I have been in 3D shoots where everyone in my group were shooting well on Saturday, scores all close. Sunday the rain rolled in and many of the guys scores just dropped. Because I bareshaft tune my arrows, they shoot the same whether the feathers are wet or dry. Thats the practicle reason for me.
Work hard at getting the arrow to fly the best you can. If you want to see why, take your BH set up and stick the fletch in water for 30 minutes, shake it off and shoot the arrow 20 yds into a target. If it flies great you were tuned properly; if not you will see why bareshafting is a good idea-try it and see. Let us know!
Strictly speaking, not necessary, but certainly helpful.
Nope, if your arrow flies straight, with broadheads attached and hits where you are looking, thats all that matters.
Of course you still gotta get your broadheads sharp, and poke them in the right place.lol
Look at it this way.
If you bare shaft and everything lines up, you can forget about your equipment being part of the shooting problem and focus on you.
If you don't tune, you'll never know.
I don't tune bareshaft by shooting groups I tune to get the bareshaft flying as straight as possible and can shoot bareshafts out to 30-40yds with no problem, this gives me the confidence in knowing my equipment is tuned as perfectly as possible and my arrow is leaving the bow straigh and also makes for a more forgiving setup as well, especially in hunting situations where form is not always perfect.
I usually bareshaft, but recently tried some fletched shafts that I received from a fellow Tradganger. They flew so well with 200-grain field points that I threw on the 200-grain broadheads that I want to hunt with. The broadheads also flew super, straight as darts and right on target, so I'm not going to mess with bareshafting this time around. I just got lucky this time!
QuoteOriginally posted by Archie:
I usually bareshaft, but recently tried some fletched shafts that I received from a fellow Tradganger. They flew so well with 200-grain field points that I threw on the 200-grain broadheads that I want to hunt with. The broadheads also flew super, straight as darts and right on target, so I'm not going to mess with bareshafting this time around. I just got lucky this time!
That's what I'm talking about Archie. Got several different broadheads, of different weights, and so many shafts, of the same type, with several being a 1/4" longer or shorter, if I find a combination that flies right day after day, I don't see the need to bareshaft. If not, I bareshaft.
QuoteOriginally posted by Dogboy900:
If you tune your arrow well, broadheads and field points will both group together, and the arrow is more likely to fly well from a less than perfect release. A well tuned arrow should fly straighter and thus give better penetration when hunting.
I guess its about trying to stack the odds in your favour :)
Exactly!
Well here is a thought. As said above, maximum penetration and confidence is well worth the effort of bareshaft tuning.
PLUS, by keeping a bareshaft handy at your practice range, shooting one or especially a group of a few bareshafts will ensure that your form is still in check.
Nothing will reveal form flaws better than a bareshaft
I actually tune my arrows with feathers on first and then I fine tune them with bare shafts.
It is WAAAYYY easier this way I have found.
I shoot fletched arrows and observe them as they fly and make adjustments in my brace height, nock point, and spine to eliminate it following the common principles.
Once that is worked out I start bareshafting. Usually I only have to make minute changes and I never have to make a change to arrow spine.
IMO, bareshafting is a lot of hype but it still works well. Maybe I have a quick eye.
Well thanks for the input! I will definitely be bare shafting for the extra piece of mind and confidence.
Hey lakeshooter, you around St. Louis?
Sedalia (about 3 hours away)